got the tips installed. Exhaust companies need to produce more 3" tips... Magnaflow, Dynomax, Pypes, Gibson, Borla, all the tips that are decent in this line that I could use were 2.5". The ones I got were 2.5" but I made a 3" to 3.5" round to oval connector and welded it after cutting the end and matching the hole to the 3.5" oval size. The truck drones a little more than with the round tips, but I think it is because the opening on the Gibsons is so big that its resonating under the bed at cruising speeds. I think I will probably extend them all the way out and cut the excess from the top and re-polish.
Short review... you need this! To this day I can't find a reason why would GM not include a rear sway-bar on their trucks. Every single GM truck I had, I have done this mod to. It helps with the stability of the truck immensely, it may not be apparent on a normal daily driving. But when you have to make a quick change of lanes because the idiot driving next to you decided that he "should" change lanes or the person in front of you stop for no reason, you will be glad you have them. The rear of the truck follows your input and it doesn't develop a mind of its own and decide to pull the truck in the opposite direction. The addition to the rear with this one made such a huge impact that I decided to get the front bar as well. The change was obvious, but so was the increase in noise. At first I took it as the urethane bushings fault, so no big deal... well, after spending some time in the last 2 weeks taking measurements for a new transmission crossmember that I want to fab up I noticed that the sway-bar was not parallel with the floor, it was pointing up at the links... my truck is lowered 3" in the front, but out of those 1" is from a spring. A few measurements and a visit to energy suspensions website I ordered a link set that's 1" shorter than the factory one, installed them and voila, no more binding noise, the truck corners way better... to the extent that I had to swap the rear bar to the stiffest setting. I would recommend both bars to anyone that drives a little faster than normal, or that drives country roads most of the time... just the rear for everyone. The benefits you get from this bar out-weights the cost big time.
last 2... I wish the site would compress the pictures. The big mufflers are Dynomax, they are getting swapped soon with two Magnaflow 6" round x 30" long mufflers... just waiting to fab up a new transmission crossmember to run my duals down under the driveshaft yoke instead of under the transmission into the passenger side. Also, decided on this configuration if I need to install J-pipes (quarterwave resonators). They will be a lot easier to mount parallel to the straight runs on the bak rather than in the front next to the mufflers.
Time for a version 2 of my exhaust, not because I wanted, but because I needed to. I added shock extenders a few days ago, and the driver side tube was in the way of the shock, so I was forced to re-do that side... problem is that there is no space to run the tube now because on the back side I have the Hellwig link and on the front GM placed the "splicer" for the brake lines. So I decided to do a center out exhaust. The original plan was to run the same set up as the Gen4 SLP CME exhaust, but I didn't feel like paying over $150 for a set of knock-off cast aluminum pieces that I would had to modify to make them work, so I decided to just run them down the center, as I don't keep my spare under the bed anymore. I am still waiting on the tips to arrive, I ordered Gibson's rectangle sport exhaust tips (which I will still need to modify just easier). I don't know if I will end up using them as I keep changing my mind between them and a quad set up... Old exhaust routing New set up.
This works... I had done a few now, but all the ones I have done are dual exhaust, so I don't know the formula for a single pipe. The formula for my Silverado gave me a tube thats between 28-32" long for each bank, and that's for an RPM range from 1800 (for the 28) and 1600 for the 32). I am changing the mufflers and the routing on my exhaust so once I am done I will see if the drone changes in RPM's before I make them.
GM keeps a flash count on the ECM. Even if you put the stock tune back, they'll still be able to see that it was tuned. Just a heads up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yeap... The 2014+ (Or any of the new LT engine computer is basically a "black box"... it saves the times it has been flashed, and which parameters were changed.
Hey, I was looking at your thread as I am looking for a roll pan for my 18' Silverado and noticed that you also have a Hellwig rear swaybar. Your links have the spacer in the wrong place, they are supposed to go between the sway and the link. Nice truck BTW.
Thanks, I have seen those as well, if I was lifted I would definitely go that route, or get the one I posted above for sure. I have done a few upgrades to my suspension, Front and rear Hellwig sway bars, lowered 3/5, rear mono shocks. Waiting for a reply from Belltech to either buy their front adjustable shock, or start working with another brand on a suitable shock for what I want to do. I really want a mono tube for the front, not a twin. I am also waiting on new shorter sway links for the front to bring the bar level because I have 1" lowering springs.
Has anyone tried, or have used a torque arm (as used on the Gen4 Camaro) to control axle (leaf) wrap? I am on the fence between this and Assassins Traction Bars. I can make my own torque arm, or buy a ready to weld kit for around $200-300 depending on the tubing size and if I want to run heim joints all the way around or just on the front. Vs around $370-400 for the Assassin bars. In addition, I could add a panhard bar with coilovers and 2 lower bars and get rid of the leaves altogether. I am about to start doing pre-mod upgrading on my truck, mainly adding a 2 piece driveshaft, possibly a Powertrax No-Slip locker (as it would save me from having to readjust ring and pinion). Ultimately I will be doing a 4 link set up, but that is IF I decide to keep the truck in the long run as it will be getting a turbo or two, but we are talking at least 3 years from now, as I am using the truck right now for my business. I know this items are more common on lifted trucks, but what called my attention the most is that it would sit inside the tunnel and out of sight, which is a bonus for me anytime.
Sounds good, it is very deep but quiet at idle. Loud at WOT, but not too raspy because of the extra mufflers. I need to try to take some sound clips, but I want to change the clamps that came with the header kit for lap bands, and Jegs delivery come next week. I am making a few changes to the back portion, and already received my bends, so, just waiting on Jegs.
Well, not that much better, the new exhaust on most of our trucks and cars now it’s 409, so it will not rust through. You will get surface rust, but that’s just cosmetic. And yes, Ti would had been almost triple what I have spent on this, not counting the argon, as for Ti you need a lot of flow as compared SS. Thanks!
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