lonewanderer812

Sorry for the late reply but no my steering wheel doesn't have the heat button on it. I have the heated seat buttons but not that one. It is on my build sheet though that both the seats and steering wheel would be retrofitted. I actually just got the notice for the seats yesterday so hopefully get that done soon. I guess the steering wheel one isn't ready yet...

Still waiting on the retro fit of my heated seats and steering wheel on my '22 LTD I got in March... Getting kinda cold here in Ohio.

Update on this issue. Finally was at the dealer and they said it's definitely not normal and believe it's an issue inside the diff. They talked with GM and they told them they've heard of this happening with some of the newer G80s and advised them on what to do. Right now I'm waiting on materials to arrive to apply the fix. They were busy so I didn't ask for a deep dive on the issue. If this fixes it I'll ask for a technical explanation as to what caused it and update here. Whatever the issue is most likely was triggered by 500 mile trip towing a jeep. I didn't notice the sound before then.

I did and found no play or noise.

I can't get it to make the noise any other way besides putting load on the drivetrain and putting the truck in motion.

Whatever noise mine's making definitely isn't normal. It just started doing it within the past 1k miles. I wasn't able to get into the dealer for over 3 weeks so I'm still waiting and the noise is driving me insane. Driving in traffic with the windows down its just constant clanks as I speed up and slow down.

I made a video. From the outside I can now tell it's coming from the rear diff area. More on the driver side.

It's in my post. 3.0 duramax/10 speed.

I started gettting a clank (not a clunk) noise recently. It sounds like metal on metal. Wondering if anyone else has had something like this before I take it to the dealer. It's a 2022 LTD RST 3.0 dmax 10 speed. I'm not sure where the noise is coming from but it happens often when taking off from a stop or when accelerating to 2nd or 3rd gear and quickly letting off the throttle. It does not do it if I just sit idle and rev the engine. I have never heard any noises from the suspension going over bumps or anything. It makes me think it has to be in the driveline. Basically I can be sitting at a stop light, then hit the accelerator and a single *clank* right as I take off.

You may have made me just realize something, I installed my dash cam right around that time. I will test unhooking that and see if that's what's causing it. Thanks!

NOT that I'm complaining because I hated it but I noticed after a drive recently I forgot to disable it and it never kicked on. I've put about 500 miles on it since I noticed it not working and every time I don't disable it and it hasn't kicked on once. I have no CEL and it's been anywhere from 35-80f degrees. Wondering if anyone else has had this issue? As long as nothing is "wrong" I'm not going to report it because I'd rather it stay broken.

I was told both the steering wheel and seats would be retrofitted on my '22 silverado ltd rst. I asked who would contact me and he said GM would directly and possibly the dealer would also be notified.

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They're bilstein 5100s.

Yeah my only issue was when I added the rear block.

I was looking at possibly an f250 with the 7.3 but after the glowing reviews for the 3.0 duramax I decided to stick with a GM 1500.

Was your block tapered? These blocks aren't.

I have a 2022 LTD 1500 RST and put Bilsteins 5100s on just the rear and drove for a week. The handling was MUCH better than the Ranchos. Then I installed a set on the front and put it at the 2nd from the highest mark. Was supposed to get 2" but I ended up seeing a little less (about 1.5") probably due to the weight of the 3.0 diesel. I drove it for another week and it handled amazing for having stock coils still. However I didn't like that the rear looked lower (even though it measured almost perfectly level) and since I haul a lot I decided to go ahead and add a rear block. I still had my stock 1" block in the garage from where I lifted my 2014 and saw where a lot of people were doing this with the new trucks so I ordered a new set of longer U bolts and stuck the K2 OEM block in the rear. However, now my ride is noticeably stiffer and it seems like the transmission or driveshaft are suffering from some side effects as well. I wouldn't think 1" would make a difference but I'm also now noticing the shifts more. With the 10 speed I could never tell when it shifted if I wasn't looking at the tach other than the 1-2 shift but now I can feel it. Anyone else experience this? I LOVE how my truck sits and it's exactly how I wanted it but now I'm tempted to take the block back out and drop the fronts a notch, requiring a lot more work to go through again. It's not a drastic issue but it is something very noticeable to someone like me who is very in tune with their vehicle.

17x8.5 +0 Icon Compression with Falken Wildpeak at3w 285/70/17. Suspension is Bilstein 5100s with front set at the second highest mark (got a little under 2" with the diesel) and a 1" block in the rear.

I've only had my truck a short time but the smell was the other thing I noticed when I hit Regen the first time. I was at the end of a 30mile/30minute drive and I noticed a smell coming from my truck when I came to a stop. The exhaust was louder and I checked my MPG for the past 25 miles and it was a good bit lower than it normally would be showing after that drive. But yeah it's not SUPER obvious when it happens but if you're paying attention to your truck you'll usually catch it when it happens. GM wants the act to be completely transparent to the user and will warn you if the particulates are still too high and wants you to keep driving to burn it off. The manual says the DIC will light up telling you it wasn't able to clean it up and needs you to keep driving. I kind of want to get one of those idash modules though because a huge part of my job is monitoring IT systems so I always like knowing what data my vehicle holds.

With my new truck, I did exactly what I did with my K2 and installed a some Morel Maximo 6 components in the front and coax door speakers in the back. It sounds good and much better than the stock speakers but I always wanted a little more and am thinking about picking up the Alpine KTA-450 unit to run off the stock head unit. This should give me that last bit of sound I want since you can definitely tell these need some more power. This is a non-bose system by the way. I was wondering if there are any plug and play harnesses to keep from splicing the factory wires? I'm ok with splicing but trying to make this as simple as possible. Also is there plenty of room behind the factory unit to stuff it back there?

Mine had the blackout package but the z71 emblems were still chrome/red.

I actually just installed one of these on my new truck last week and so far I'm not a huge fan compared to the truxedo truxport that sits on the bed rails I had on my last truck. This one looks nicer overall on the truck but the cheaper one seemed like a better product. I was able to install the other one in like 20 minutes and this one took me like an hour and a half. I'm also having issues with leakage and water sitting on the section right behind the cab. Never had any water come in with the truxport or pooling of any kind on it. I had it for 4 years and am giving it to my dad for his truck.

Well I was able to snag someone else's order from a local dealer of the exact truck I wanted. 2022 LTD RST 3.0 double cab in satin steel. Love the little diesel and the color.

So, after talking with a couple dealers, I'm ready to order my first brand new vehicle. I have decided on a Silverado RST 3.0 Diesel in satin steel metallic but the color isn't showing on either GMC or Chevy's truck builder anymore. It was there last week or so. Did they get rid of it? I'm really bummed because I had planned on putting my order in today and I am in love with this color.