Everything posted by Snowcamo
Yeah man I see this type of thread popup way too often. It's always the same. Dealer is working with me on the cost. 5k later.... they are back passed like [email protected]##$ I smh when I read this and think if I had this issue why go back to the same parts that failed
Ask yourself. Do I love this truck enough to put more money into it and keep it for the long haul? That us what you should do. Asking for others opinions can lead you to more money out of pocket and resentment if you do not like the truck and end up having more issues down the road. I say if you like the Truck and want to keep it. Have a shop install a dog delete kit from Brian tooley racing and a decent cam to match. Then have the truck programed. Then you can live worry free while driving and know this will not be an issue again.
Honest feed back here. Spend your dollars elsewhere. Do not give gm a dime for a used motor no matter what they tel you the deal is. Find a local shop and have them look it over and see if they can make repairs or build it better.
Got that Zapco DSP running! All I can do is smile. Man clarity is on point low, mids and highs factory is a mud pit compared to this. A pic of the dash speakers setup. Still messing around with this. Next up is insulating the doors with 1/2 arrmaflex sheets and ductwork insulation.
Rock on man. The issues noted are with the factory non bose systems. I can look for the review on line that lays out the mild issue. Iirc. It wasn't too bad unless a guy is going after sound quality
I picked up a Zapco 8ch dsp z8. There are enough channels to run the dash, doors and sub. It has an aux input that I will use a dac or something to play music through. The plan is to run wire from the rockford fosgate 700x to the speakers in the doors. It is already ran to the dash. I need to get the dsp running to do this though. That said I got those 8-1/2 in the doors and just like custom offsets it "Fits" with cutting the inner panel plastic a little bit. If someone is not interested in cutting for larger tires they would puke if they saw what had to be cut out to fit these. That said looks just like factory when looking at the door.
Local tuners suck azz..... best connect with blackbear or Diablew. Or cam. One of them can get you straightened out and won't charge an arm, leg and organ like the local shops. I called around the DFW and screw that... they haven't the slightest clue as to what they are doing.
Good deal man. These pods really help as they open in the back and allow a better sound wave. Plus time and material are saved. Before you go and by rockford fosgate check out the link I am gonna pm you. Open a thread over there in the " Help me design my system" section and ask the guys what they think of those. Let them know what your goal is. Most have strayed away from those horn tweets. And when looking for a awesome mid bass try to line up the "QTS" specs with mine. That will provide a speaker capable of a good all around mid and bass driver. Here ya go. I believe it is 3.75" deep or so Legatia L8 Thiele-Small Parameters: Overall diameter: 215mm (8.5-inch) Mounting depth: 92mm Bolt Circle Diameter: 195mm Mounting hole: 185mm Pnom (without crossover) 75W (AES Standard) Pmax (without crossover): 150W Pmax (with recommended crossover): 250W Frequency range: 40Hz – 2,000 Hz Sensitivity: 87dB (2.83V/1m) Mms: 31.5g Cms: 454 um/N BL: 5.99 T*m Voice coil diameter: 35.55mm (1.4-inch) Impedance: 4 Ohm DC Resistance: 3.4 Ohm Fs: 40Hz (free air) Qms: 7.35 Qes: 0.693 Qts: 0.765 Xmax: 8.5mm (one way) Vas: 26L Sd: 0.02 m2 Headphones work wonders.
Nice! Those should sound great! I am focusing on SQ with this current build. The CDT speakers I installed are actually 2" overall is 2.75 in the factory mount with a little wiggle room. The smaller the speaker the better the clarity due to less cone and distortion. I'm no audiophile pro but I have been studying the pros on a forum and learn a decent bit of knowledge. Additionally, I made some enclosures for the dash speakers. Followed the pros and used ductwork insulation foam tape. The factory mount is wide open. On the backside. These aftermarket speakers like an enclosure, so closing off the mount should yield some decent clarity big time.
I got a guy who makes them. If anyone needs some dash, front or rear door speaker adaptors let me know when you are ready to purchase via pm. I will send his email contact info. He asked that I let him know ahead. These are CNC milled derin iirc. These adaptors go for approx $100 +/-. Quality is excellent. The adaptors are built based off the specs of your speakers. Test fit day should be today given the weather permits. That said I am the first to go 8-1/2", when most go 8" all day without issues. He's built many many many adaptors lol. This is a good guy with very good communication and will work with your needs. Attached is a 3" mid in a Sierra dash.
Just take the factory struts off and have a local shop swap them. 50-100 bucks is totally worth the peace of mind. The ones pictured will bend when the spring compresses. I love life do you? On a Serious note: I used both types of rental spring compressors and both bent. The two thread types started bending and I said screw that. The clam shell style bent and the fing spring popped out at the wall. It's not worth the PRIDE man. Let a shop do it.
Change the oil and try This first. Between that and cleaning my coil to plug connections resolved my lifter tap. Honestly this was it more then the ignition. Then again I didn't drive too far when the engine started to tap. That said, when I was finished I went on a 175 mile ride and all has been well since.
I am working on a simular setup like the one in the pics. 8.5" mid bass in the front doors. Anyone drill out the harness connectors to run wire? I have zero plans to continue to use the thin factory wiring.
Spoke to him and he is wanting to upgrade and get all android and apple carplay . I'll get him setup with Coastal and see what we need to do. Do you guys have any sugguestions for the upgrade?
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