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M-Wheeler

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M-Wheeler last won the day on December 1 2018

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About M-Wheeler

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  1. Do a complete trans fluid flush with with new Mobil 1 fluid they are using for the "clunk" fix in the 8 speeds. It's the new blue label Mobil 1 Synthetis LV ATF HP. It will take 12qts. My "flares/clunks/hard downshifts" have pretty much disappeared. Also, do the thermostat delete.
  2. Mine is a 6 speed and I see a tremendous improvement in upshift firmness, no downshift clunking and no more "flares". Have 12,500 miles on this swap, no issues. Although I did a flush and fill , I plan on continuing to replace 1/3 (4qts) at each 5K oil change for a bit just for piece of mind. My oil extractor removes exactly 4qts through the fill dipstick.
  3. By a new thermostat from dealer $75 Perform the thermostat delete mod on new thermostat Remove current thermostat, (keep for later if needed for colder weather, takes 5 minutes to swap) Install modified thermostat Now you can flush system using outlet line of thermostat Refill using the newly updated Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP fluid (12 qts). Smooth as butter, no jerking, no hesitant shifting.
  4. I am considering a performance build from GPI in Jacksonville, AR. I already have a tune from them, but if a lifter ever goes out, I'll be paying them to do a true delete kit with performance cam, headers and re-tune. $3-4K
  5. replace with AFM delete kit/cam/tune....more torque/horsepower, more reliable, less money.
  6. I had my truck tuned at GM by an "in-house" performance division called GPI, they do full AFM delete kits etc. on the vette's and so forth, as well as tunes. I have used them on 4 previous vehicles. They use an HP Tuners product. I called my guy over there and asked him about the thermostat delete, he mentioned not to mess with it, and that there are tuning tables in the TCM that are set at different performance levels for different temperatures. I know nothing about what tables could be in the TCM, or if the HP Tuner software has the ability to adjust for each table at each temperature, but if true, and you have a tune, then reducing the max temp of the tranny might not let the tranny get to the next heat/table.... thoughts?
  7. I have the 4.56 gears with 35's and have no complaints. 2100rpm at 70mph. Drove 1000 mile round trip this past week from Little Rock to Galveston, 15.7mpg average (hand calc) running 75-80mph 4.10 gears with 35's would effectively be approx. 3.73 gearing 4.56 gears with 35's would effectively be approx. 4.10 Gearing Currently, your truck with 37" tires and 3.23 gears is running at an approx. 2.76 gear. With 37" tires you really need 4.56 gears, that will put you in between a 3.73 and 4.10, which would be perfect with the 6.2, good towing and decent gas mileage.
  8. Best way to see if a catch can really works is to install 2 of them. Have one dump to the other. If the 2nd one is collecting anything, then you know the first can is not working like it should.... Anyhow, with that being said, I empty mine every 1,000miles and have about an ounce of crap each time. Also, PRIOR to every oil change (5K) I do the DI/Turbo intake clean. I made a special fitting on CAI after my MAF, spray in 1-2 second bursts at 2000rpm, let soak for an hour, run it down freeway for 10-20 miles. dump oil/filter, rinse repeat. 35K, runs like a top!
  9. Are you not concerned about having enough air flow to the radiator?
  10. I will say that these do not offer hardly any protection and wish I had the larger size. I already have a few nicks down the sides from slinging small rocks.
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