The L86 is the same block, valvetrain and bottom end as LT1, but LT1 gets different intake/exhaust manifolds and tune. And weren't all LT series engines hand assembled? Or was the reserved for special engines like LT3 and LT4?
Just check the weight rating on them if you tow or carry a payload. Sometimes aftermarket stuff has significantly lower weight capacities which will lower your GAWR. Most OEM wheels are made by the same Chinese companies as the knock offs, so it shouldn't be an issue but always check. I hope your in a nice city with good concrete streets, otherwise prepare to lose ride quality.
A big part of the rough ride people experience on these is largely related to the wheel. My 2010 had 18" and rode like a cloud, my 2015 was my first set of 20's and the truck was intolerable in comparison. I put on a 33x12.5 10ply to help with the lack of sidewall made a big difference but I will be reverting back to a 18" on my next one. Both trucks were All Terrains with Ranchos. I have taken an AT4 for a ride and don't notice it to be worse than my 15 AT was on stock tires.
You need a NV4500 trans if you want to retain 4x4 and have a easy manual swap. A T56 or TR6060 would not be a good choice for that truck. Be noted, a NV4500 is by no means a high performance manual trans. My 99 dually has 4.10's and I am shifting into 5th (overdrive) at 80kph or 50mph at hits the 6.5L Diesel's redline at 120kph, but it is very tough and forgiving to new drivers. I only had one employee destroy the clutch in her, she keeps on going otherwise.
100%. most of today's problems stem from the overcomplicated computer controlled era. My 98 didn't need constant updates, or spend a week in the garage for "software" issues or problems with "lane departure assist". You still see a lot of GMT700's up here. Most of the 800's and many 900's have hit the scrap yard from rotten bodies and frames, and computer issues already. They built those $20,000 trucks to last for 15+ years. Now automakers figure out their profit margins are better if they sell you one for $60,000 that only lasts 8 years. You will be back much sooner to spend $80,000 on the next era's, then $100,000 on the following era etc-etc.
My 2018 HD had some similar issues first one was a loose ground that I found because the dealer couldn't get me in for a week, as all electronics including headlights would cut out at random even at night on the highway. Seems to be a safety issue, you would think they would be able to help a guy that spends $100k there every couple years a little better. 2nd issue my fuel pump would not shut off, even with fuses pulled, turned out to be the chassis control module. Maybe GM should put more modules and computers in these things?
The overall quality, thickness and application of paint on GM trucks has taken a big dive since the water based colours came into play. It is very thin and very fragile. My 2010 peeled around the wheel well by 2014 with no gravel roads travelled. The truck was 6 months out of my Symtech paint warranty and Symtech went good on it. Had the box repainted and was set to keep the truck. Then about 6 months later I noticed a paint bubble above the windshield at traded it in right away. I am not repainting a 4 year old truck that is garage parked and driven exclusively on paved surfaces. It sucks my guy, but its the nature of today's automakers, they cut every corner they possibly can and charge you as much as possible. You are going to have a vehicle payment the rest of your life, whether you trade them in every few years, or try to hang onto one for 10 years. If your not making payments on a new one, your paying for transmissions and paint jobs it would seem. No different with Ford or Dodge, see a lot of flakey newish trucks running around up here in Canada sadly.
GM does not warranty "wear" items, even under bumper to bumper. If you put all those miles on without a rotate, they will wear like that without having any alignment issue. My 33" x 12.5's will start to get a "choppy" inner lug wear as quick as 15,000km or about 9,500mi. if I don't rotate them. At $550+tax per tire for 20's in Canada, I make sure to do them every oil change. All 4 wear evenly this way and your never stuck saying "just do the two fronts for now" at the tire shop and chasing down matching tires. The wider the tire, the worse the effect seems to be, or if you start playing around with offsets and level kits as the camber and caster of the wheel path is set up to work with stock geometry.
Follow the wiring and look for rubbed spots if its not the fuse. If not a fuse or rubbed wire, then you have issues with whatever actuates the steps, or a relay/bad connector. No easy way for us to tell you how to fix it without knowing more. Seeing as how neither step is working, it probably isn't the actuator on the boards, rather a wiring issue or relay issue.
No. You are just misunderstanding them a bit. Yes your axles can carry 7900#, but your truck cant. GAWR is gross axle weight rating. It only tells you the max weight each axle (or tire, or rim) can bare. The reason it is higher than your GVWR is because in this case, it is not the limiting factor in determining the GVWR. The axles are stronger than other components on the vehicle such as brakes chassis and suspension. Your GAWR is determined by the components bolted to it. So if you have a axle rated for 3500lbs, but your tires can only carry 1500lbs each max, then your GAWR will be reduced to 3000lbs. You could still meet your GVWR limit with the new lower GAWR limit, as long as you don't exceed your new GAWR on either axle. Almost all pick up trucks have a higher GAWR than GVWR. Don't pay much attention to GAWR other than knowing the limit, and to check at the scale with your trailer to make sure you aren't over on each axle or axle group. The axles are almost always rated higher/more capable than the chassis and suspension on all trucks and trailers. I cant tell you how many people I have seen that bought a trailer with two 3500# axles because their skid steer was 6900#, forgetting about the GVWR of the trailer and making a decision by axle rating, which will always at least subtract the weight of the trailer from the GAWR. These folks find out the hard way when they get pulled into the DOT.
I had some built in the mid 90's out of steel for my work trucks. I am using one made for a 1993 F250 right now on my 2018 Chevy. The dimensions width wise have been relatively unchanged, but now the bedsides are higher so all I needed to do was drill new mount holes 2" lower for my slip tank. They each have been on 2 different trucks and will outlast this one. Back rack brand is decent if you are trying to keep an ATV from breaking your window, but if you use it for other things they are inadequate. Mine serves as a pipe or ladder rack, beacon mount, oversize pilot vehicle sign mount, tie down, and slip tank mounting point. You will get a more useful rack if you build or find a custom one. Check your local salvage yard, I picked up a decent homebuilt there last year. DeeZee makes a really nice hexagonal aluminum rack that is very affordable and looks great too, black or raw AL.
Why can some people buy a Bugatti while other mere peasants are driving Civics? You were either born into money or you built something successful with hard work and determination. /thread
By the information you have provided a 3/4t would be overkill. If your truck is a dedicated tow rig and remains in the driveway until the weekend, would you consider a used truck at half the cost? You are just burning your warranty and money by purchasing a new one to sit in a driveway.
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