The metal is zinc coated I believe so it will "resist" rust naturally. When I installed my gator backs I filled the drill holes with a finger tip full of grease and then used stainless bolts. Every couple years I pull the fender flares and mud flaps off to clean the metal and dirt out of there, coat the flare mounting area with a bit of aerosol oil, re-grease the bolt holes and reinstall. No issues or rot yet. Any oil will help with rust, but the grease in the holes will withstand weather better than any oil product will.
Mazzula is where I would be looking if I were installing pre-runner style suspension too. Not much point in spending the dough on a set of Kings if you have them bolted up to OEM control arms. The second you lift them to 3" and go off road, you will have your UCA rip right off the truck or get tangled in the front coil spring. Mind you King shocks might not even clear an OEM UCA when installing, the coil may be already to wide. Quite the build you have going OP, you must have secured yourself a great career to be able to afford putting that kind of money into your toys. Congrats.
How are the new Dodge SUV's? We tested a Grand Cherokee, probably around 2008 when we bought our Avalanche. The body roll was just insane in that vehicle, a slight jerk of the wheel damn near made it feel like it was going to tuck down on the outside front tire and roll over. AKA the "moose test". Needless to say I didn't even get the Cherokee home before I decided it was not the vehicle for my wife. I wish GM still made the Avalanche, was her favourite vehicle since we've been together. Good luck with your new ride, cant go wrong with the Hemi powertrain. I am equally as frustrated with my 2015 6.2L. 3 recalls and its on its third torque converter and second transmission in only 20,000 miles. Spends the winter in the garage anyway and I use my work truck for chores and gravel roads so I might as well trade it for a Vette this summer before it starts costing me money.
The best solution to prevent trim fade is to park out of the sun. I know its not feasible to have a garage at your apartment or condo for example, but the city dwellers can ask if they can put up a shelter in their lot. I rinse the dust off my engine bay with a 4000spi 4gpm diesel fired washer and I have no issues. I use a 3 bucket method with grit guards, a rinse pail, a soap pail and a wheel/trim pail. First I strip the heavy stuff off with my hot washer, then hit the whole truck with the foam lance to provide lubrication for the wash mitt, I keep adding foam as I get different areas, top to bottom. Once the paint is clean I switch mitts and pails and do the rocker panels, sidesteps, wheels, mudflaps, exhaust tip. Then I rinse the whole truck off and blow off the water with a leaf blower. Then I touch up the water spots with a shammy. Then wax and detail. Takes me about 5-6 hours to do it in a relaxing manner. Claybar once a season. NEVER circular motion with wash mitt or wax applicator/buffer towel. Once done I wash all my mitts/polish rags in the washer for next time. AMMO NYC on youtube is a very helpful learning resource so that you don't damage your paint. I am in my 30's and still learning new tips are tricks each time I wash a vehicle, and I have over 20 to maintain. They don't all get the show car treatment like my truck though.
L86 All Terrain replied to Dersch's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraI wont even take my truck through a touchless wash. Never mind one of those automatic paint sanders. I know it is not possible for everyone to have their own washing set up in the cities but if you have a garage and warm climates, you would be foolish not to invest in your own set up to do it properly. Now your going to spend $500 to have that corrected properly. Watch AMMO NYC's videos on washing black paint. Invest in your own set up if possible. Never, ever, ever use a brush style auto wash, nor use the car washes manual brush on your vehicle. If you want flawless black paint, be prepared to spend 4 hours or more on it every second weekend at a minimum.
Yeah I am with you, they wont be dropping a 700lb cast iron big block engine in the Mustang. They are all screaming Boss 429 already lol. I just want to see the look on their faces when their dreams are crushed. Maybe if Ford makes an aluminum version, but it is still a big block. If you look under the hood of a modern fiveoh, there is not a lot of room in there even with that small block DOHC engine. Has Ford released numbers yet? I guess around 420hp and 540-575tq on 87octane
That thing will make the current 6.0L look like a Prius at the gas pumps. I know how bad my 6.2L DCSB (5400lbs 1/2ton) can be when using the power, never mind talking DI big blocks in heavy trucks. I would expect you will see a F350 7.3L get about 9 highway and 6 city. I am sure Ford will put a 50-60 gallon tank in there though to convince owners they get good mileage, same trick with the F150.
Nice, looks good I didn't get that fancy. I cringed at the thought of drilling a hole in the dash of my truck so I just electrical taped the switch to the telescopic steering wheel lever lol.. I am weird like that, even the mounts I made for the lights clamp on the front clip brace behind the grille rather than drilling through it like the dealer does. Maybe I should look at doing the switch properly like that.
It's not bad on my SLT with the big screen, but my 2500 has the small screen and it takes you about 30 seconds to squint and read the whole thing. You are definitely hitting the ditch if you try.
Very clean install, you must do a lot of highway driving to want one of those. I turn the CB radios off at all times when I drive truck because 90% of the highway drivers in Canada are east Indians speaking Punjabi that cant order a Double-Double coffee in English let alone tell you something useful over a static-filled CB radio. We run 2-way radios here, I am sure the localized trucks in the US do too, you can run them on scan to pick up any local chatter with exception to private channels such as large contractors or the police, range is upwards of 30 miles depending on towers and antenna set up.
Yes you are right, but a negative offset will, more often than not, have the spoke/rim support on the inside towards the "show side" of the wheel (weak side on negative offsets) giving you more clearance or a flusher mount on the backside. The more positive your offset is it means your mounting face is pushed towards the "show side" of the wheel, which usually means the spoke support will be built into the backside of the wheel (weak side on positive offsets) to increase support to the outer rim. This is not always the case, but generally good engineering practice. The problem is if you go to aggressive negative offset to get the proper spoke clearance to avoid caliper contact, you now may be creating contact in other areas like the bumper and wheel well liner. You are probably 100% right though, a +24 will have too much spoke/rim support on the backside to clear the caliper without spacers. Anyone know if you can bolt a K2 brake caliper on a T1? Did the caliper become stronger, or just a new, slightly wider casting?
You sound like me. Mine is currently wintering in the garage as well. Got to love Ontario's magnesium chlorate. It will rot out parked to close to the stuff, never mind bathed in it daily. I should sell mine and buy a Corvette honestly for what I do with it. If I have a show pony it might as well be something special rather than my dubbed "Canadian Corvette" 6.2L truck.
Over 140hp and 400lb-ft of torque BELOW 2,000rpm from a naturally aspirated engine is a remarkable achievement and will undoubtable be more than a sufficient choice for the HD's. Considering the outgoing 6.0L makes around 120hp and 330lb-ft at 2,000rpm. Now I just wish I could have had this engine in my 2018 2500. But as newdude suggests, going from a 4.10 gear to a 3.73 will likely take away any of that gained torque IF all the 6L90e gear ratios remain unchanged.
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