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Billet Bowtie

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Everything posted by Billet Bowtie

  1. I also had to spread the new shackles slightly. They were just a tick narrower than the stock one.
  2. The red arrow is the exhaust hanger bolt. The blue arrow is the actual lower shackle bolt.
  3. Here is the exhaust hanger bolt that needs to be removed. One on the passenger side tail pipe and one on the drivers side. Also the electrical module on the passenger side circled below makes it hard to reach the back of the top bolt when trying to slide it out of the old shackle and back in the new shackle. You can still snake your hand around it but it is tight.
  4. After install:
  5. I installed my drop shackles today. I installed them in the bottom hole which will give it less drop. The result is the truck now has a 1/2" rake on the drivers side and 3/8" on the passenger side. My truck had about a 1.5" rake to start with. If I would have installed the shackles in the 2" top hole I think the back might have been lower than the front. The install was pretty easy. There is a 3" gap above the frame to the bed so there is plenty of room to get the top shackle bolt out. The only thing I had to remove for installation was the rear exhaust tail pipe hanger bolts. They are in the way when trying to remove the lower shackle bolt. The truck drives exactly the same except you can feel it sits a little lower. Before install:
  6. The point of this product is to give you the choice of having the start stop feature when you want it instead of being forced to use it and manually override it. Research has shown the start stop feature can increase your mileage up to 3 to 5% depending on your driving habits. What I have not seen is how much extra wear it adds on the engine, electrical and transmission. When you think about the engine having to build oil pressure from 0 psi every time it starts along with the electrical draw and the transmission having to pump from 0 how does that effect overall longevity of these components? Personally I would like to have the option for it to stay on or off which is what this product provides.
  7. I just bought a pair. The only manufacturer I could find is from Wulf Suspensions. They are adjustable from 1.5" to 2". I just received them last night and plan to install them this weekend. My truck only has a 1.5" rake so I am going to try the 1.5" hole. I called Belltech and Mcgaughys and they could not tell me when they would have some available.
  8. I bought some 24 x 10 30 mm Ferrada FT3 wheels. When they came in they were damaged during shipment. I did test fit a wheel and the spokes of the wheel would have hit the caliper. I'm pretty sure a 1/2" spacer would have made the wheel work.
  9. I am looking to do the same thing. Most 24s come in a 24 x 10. The 30mm offset that is standard on almost every wheel that fits the older body style trucks tucks a little to much on the 19s. The problem is the calipers are wider on the new trucks causing the face of the wheel to rub the caliper. The other issue is anything with more than 6 inches of backspace puts the tire very close to the upper a arm. I talked to a place that says they have put some 25mm offset wheels on but the spoke design needs to have a concave dish to clear the caliper. I have been looking at wheels with no more than 20mm offset. The other option would be to run a 1/2 spacer or so depending on how flat the face of the wheel is. I would prefer not to run a spacer if possible. I took my stock 20 x 9 wheel off and measured it. The back spacing was right at 6 inches with only about a 1/2 inch of clearance from the stock tire to the upper a arm.
  10. Are you looking for off road negative off set wheels or a street style wheel with positive off set?
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