That link is very informative and would have been very helpful to me about a month ago. I through a ton of trial and error figured out that my trailer lights need to have just the right amount of load for everything to work correctly. A little tip, if you have LED lights and are seeing error being detected by your trailer light test adding a resistor to the circuit fixed my brake light problem. On my running lights circuit my trailer had 17 incandescent lights and they would all turn on for 1 second and then turn off every time I tried them. The trailer test showed a running light problem. I swapped all 17 out for LEDs to reduce the load and that seems to have solved my problem. So it is very important to reach the right balance for the trailer light control module to see enough load to know that the light is working but not to overload so the module shuts the circuit off. Can be tricky. There is also an update out to "reflash" the module. I dont remember the number but it listed near the end of the cold weather electrical problem thread. My local dealer did the update as well. So far dont seem to have problems. Waiting for first long trip with the trailer to see if it is all solved.
I notice that since my truck updated to 803 I keep getting the prompt to accept or decline almost every time I start the truck. It's really annoying and I'd doesn't matter if I accept terms or decline it just comes back next time. Does anyone know how to stop this?
It doesn't matter if you accept or not. It keeps coming back. I also have the 803 update and it is still happening. I have also been to the dealer and had the brake recall and the trailer light control module reflashed. No change.
Just a note. I pulled a small motorcycle trailer about 360 miles round trip on Sunday with a 4 pin connector and had no problems. The trailer had LED lights too. As a side note I got 16.5 mpg according to the computer with 3 motorcycles and 3 adults in the truck. I know it's a small trailer but didn't even know it was there. I was impressed with the 6.2's mileage because my last truck with the 3.5 EcoBoost while having no trouble pulling was only getting 10 mpg in similar situations.
In that picture it looks to me like there is either too much tongue weight or something is not right with your springs. I assume the trailer is empty in this picture like you said earlier. Did you check the sticker in the door jamb to see what the GVW is? I believe you can have a tongue weight of 10% of the GVW. So if the GVW is 9300 pounds the tongue weight can be 930 pounds. The trailer axles are supposed to carry the majority of the weight. If the tongue weight is too much or even too little the trailer starts to "drive" the truck.
I have a 2019 at4 and it tows my 4 place snowmobile trailer with no suspension issues at all. Wiring and light issues are another story not for this thread. Shocks do not affect ride height. They are there as dampers which slow down the stroke of the suspension through its travel. You must have excessive tongue weight or defective springs if you are bottoming out just driving down the road. TFL does some really good towing tests with half ton trucks and explains how much tongue weight your truck should be able to handle according to the stickers in your door jamb. You should check it out. In the meantime maybe post I picture of your trailer hooked up to your truck. A lot of pretty savvy people on here might pick up on something. The guys at TFL Truck regularly tow 7000 to 9000 pounds with half ton trucks in their tests.
Yes my trailer lights "pulse" when the trailer is connected and the truck is turned off. If I understand correctly that is part of the security system and the truck monitors to see if the trailer gets disconnected and will sound the alarm. My problem is that while driving the system will think that the trailer is disconnected and when I stop to check everything is perfect and all lights and brakes are working. When I use the left turn signal the blinker goes at double speed like when your turn signal lamp is out and I get an error code on the screen, then after a few pulses is slows down to normal speed and the error code goes away. Same light in the right side and no problems yet. Maybe it needs the resistors on the lamps like some of the vehicle LED conversions.
I am new to the site. I have had all kinds of problems with my trailer connections and lights with my new 2019 at4. It has not been cold like others are talking about since I only picked up my truck March 2nd. I have an enclosed snowmobile trailer with an electrical system that is meticulous. I am an electrician by trade and I pride myself on my trailers always having lights that work perfectly. My last truck was a 2014 F150 Platinum and I never had any trailer light problems. From the first time I hooked up the trailer the light test came back with a running light fault and the running light would only turn on for 1 second when first connected or 1 second at the start of the lighting test. They would also turn on for 1 second when I turned on the headlights manually after that 1 second they would turn off and not come back on until disconnected and reset. All of my lights worked perfectly when hooked up to other trucks.( I tested with 4 other trucks). I also tested 2 other trailers with my new truck and all lights worked on the other trailers. It seemed my truck didn't like my trailer. I have since replaced all 17 running lights on my trailer with LEDs and they now work miraculously! Today I towed my trailer for about 5 miles and while driving I got a couple of messages that trailer was disconnected and that trailer left turn signal error ( I also replaced the brake/turn signals with new LEDs as well). It seems GM has a serious problem with their trailering app software/ hardware that needs to be resolved. One of the main reasons I have a truck is for towing and this is a real disappointment. I am very glad to have run across this thread so at least I know I am not crazy. My dealer claims to have known nothing about these problems. I think I will try to bring it in and have the update done to see if that helps. I bought the truck at a dealer 150 miles away so I hope a local dealer will take a look at it for me without giving me a hard time. Once again, not temperature related. As a side note I also noticed that when the trailer is plugged into the 7 pin socket I believe I hear a replay click after a few seconds as though it recognizes that a trailer has been plugged in. I wonder if this could be one of the hardware items that is acting up. Thanks for this thread.
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