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I personally am very impressed with the ride quality of my AT4 and wouldn't be looking to make it stiffer with a new coil over system.

Wondering how this worked out. Looking to give it a try. Please let us know! Thanks.

Lots of posts on this. Go back through older posts. There is a trailer light control module reprogram that will probably help. Just look back through older posts.

Darcy I'm not sure if I am following this thread correctly so I need to ask. What size are your tires and is your truck stock with no leveling kit. Looks great to me and sits nice. My truck is also a white AT4 with no level so I'm very curious. Thanks.

I recently partially took my dash apart. I ended up taking the top tray out and the front windshield defrost grill out. The defroster grill pops out with a plastic trim tool. The center dash tray does as well once the single screw is removed. While reinstalling the screw in the dash tray I pulled back on it and tightened the screw. I then popped the defroster grill back in, the rattle seems to have stopped. At least for the time being. Now the center console squeaks of course.

Can't hear anything except road noise. Even with headphones.

Also having the rattle in my at4. Seems like if I pull back towards me on the center dash storage tray it seems to go away. Does this sou d like the rattle of the ducting on the bar?

I believe the reprogram of the trailer light module widens the acceptable amperage draw and may help with this problem. Not positive though. I know that after changing all running lights to led problem was solved. Then I changed brake / tail lights to led problems arose due to too little draw. I added the resistors and all working at this time. Reprogram also helped with trailer disconnected issue.

Has anyone with these problems tried the trailer light module reprogram I mentioned earlier. It helped my truck a lot. I believe that it widens the acceptable amp draw of the trailer lights substantially. My running lights were drawing too much so it would shut down so I swapped all trailer lights to led. Then my brake a d signal lights were not drawing enough so it shut down so I added the resistors. Now after reprogram and new lights everything works as it should. Also eliminated the trailer disconnected message that used to show up frequently. A combination of new lights with the proper amperage draw plus the refresh has almost completely eliminated these problems.

I have had many trucks in the past and none of them sealed perfectly to keep water out with a tonneau cover. None of them let much water in either. My new AT4 is exactly the same as all of the others. It let in exactly the same amount as my others. I have the gm rev cover on my AT4.

Might be enough to make a thief move on to the next trailer instead of yours. Or maybe they may not even notice. I know that snowmobiles and trailers are stolen in Canada from the hotels pretty frequently so if someone passes mine and messes with the next one I'm ok with that. My cousin had 2 trailers and 8 sleds stolen in just 1 trip.

I have been getting over 21mpg consistently driving on the highway even with intermittent traffic as I said earlier. And that is from Long Islant to VT. Lots of hills. 2019 AT4 wit stock 20" wheels and tires.

If you read the link posted in the beginning of this topic you will see that there is nothing to fix. The flashing is supposed to happen. It's part of the system. I believe it is for security. The truck " checks" to see if the trailer is still connected.

Does anybody remember the old days when a flashing led on their dash would tell a would be thief that the security system was armed?

I love it! I have been wondering if there was something available from the older trucks that would fit the new ones. How well does that charger work? If its consistently good I may pick one up.

I'm not sure how but it can be done. I will take a look at my settings. I lock the key fob in my truck all of the time. Also a point of interest, GMC has an accessory keypad (a knockoff of Ford's) that I had mounted on my door. ($250 installed at the dealer) that works great so far. You can lock or unlock the truck and therefore the tailgate without the key fob. I lock my keys in the truck all of the time and dont even need a phone to unlock.

Good luck!

There is a lot of info on this in previous posts on pages 9 and 11, also a thread on April 8th. Check those out.

Get the reprogram done. It will probably fix most of the problems. I pulled out most of my hair fighting with this. I am an electrician by trade and spent about 3 weeks and 30 or so hours going over every last wire on my trailer and found no problems. Changing out the lamps and the reprogram seems to have solved the problem. Not worth fighting with it until the reprogram is done. Then you can change the lamps and or add resistors to get the loads right so the app sees enough draw to know the lamps are working but not too much draw so it turns them off.

Tell the dealer there is a bulletin for the trailer light control module reprogram. The truck is very sensitive to how much load is on each circuit. Too low or too high and it shuts the circuit down. I needed to change my running lights to led to reduce the amperage this got the running lights working however when I did I also swapped the tail / brake lights to led which reduced the load too much so they wouldn't work. I needed yo add resistors to fix that. The reprogram of the trailer light control module reduces the sensitivity to help with this. There are some extensive posts about this. I believe that you can find them under cold weather electrical problems. People originally thought the problems were temperature related.

How did you get your build sheet? I would like to look at mine. Thanks in advance.

I am having problems with my presets also. I can access them on the touch screen but when I use the steering wheel controls it shows up on the dashboard and the icon moves to the new station on the radio but the station doesnt change and the highlight goes back to the station still playing. I am only using XM at this point so I dont know if it's also a problem on AM/FM. It used to work perfectly both ways.

The bulletin for the trailer module reprogram is N192213550. Have the dealer try that.

There is a bulletin out about trailer light control module. Big thread about this under other heading. Guys originally thought it was related to cold weather. It shows up also as trailer disconnected message. Problem has to do with lights drawing too little or too much amperage. Took me a long time to get mine sorted out but the reprogram should help.