Pivot

Dan, I can't remember, You on 3rd or 4th setting on Bilstein's??

Clear Coat would be best, but you might take a look on Amazon at two products I've used to keep corrosion down on sleds, quads, dirt bikes, spare tire hardware , hitch receivers, tools. I've had ACF -50 for awhile and just ordered another can of Corrossion X. I like Corrosion X better. I've never used on shocks, but don't see how it could hurt. Obviously keep that far away from brake pads, rotors. I have to drop truck off later today and have changed my mind 10 times if I want to do 3rd setting and leave rear alone or 4th setting and add 2" block in rear.

Interesting. I was guessing you might have 20" or even 22". Those 18" rims with tires should be considerably softer than 20". Tire your running is not 10 ply either. Pretty sure thats standard load. I've even looked at the 18" rims a few times when shopping wheels. That extra rubber, bigger shoulders, offer a little more protection on curbs, softer ride. I'll still probably stick with 20's, might try and avoid a 10 ply, but not sure I could tell the difference. It's a truck. I have 20"s on a car with summer bandaids on rims. Grips like the devil, but always dodging potholes. I feel everything, but car is tight.

Tyler, nice write up with details. So much of this stuff is subjective and people love to spend money, modify, change things up. Some guys will drop decent coin for marginial improvements. Take the Cold Air Kits guys love to buy and install. Few hundred bucks and an hour to install. Some say it's a waste of money, no change in performance. Probably correct, but damn, it looks badass and I pulled a bunch of plastic crap and baffles that dominated the front of the engine bay and tossed it in the trash. Cleaned things up and I swear I hear the increased whooshing sound when I step on the gas over stock. Some of it could be in my head. I think a lot of guys start looking at 5100's as an inexpensive replacement or a better route to level vs a spacer. Guys looking for both, (replacement+level) than it's even a better deal. I think a lot of the interest, questions, excitement, has shifted to the 6112. Yes, a price increase but also higher expectations. I'll be one of those guys that's pulling new shocks off and replacing. Installation happens on Tuesday. I've been looking for setting info on the front adjustable, plus looking at wheels. I'll know after Tuesday and will be sure to comment. I hope the 6112 will be a big improvement over my stock struts and coils. It's a much thicker strut with a larger piston rod and body size that should provide more damping over what I have. More importantly, I'm interested in the new springs designed to match. My expectations aren't huge. I looked around a lot. Quite a few options, with Bilsteins, Eibach and Fox 2.0 being lower mid range. Prices really start to ramp up to the $1.5k-$2k+ range after that with the more exotic options available like Kings. Wasn't worth it to me, but I'm sure others would argue they are worth every penny. That's what makes these forums great. I basically wanted to just lift the front a bit. I like a firm ride and thats what I expect. Hoping to correct a few behaviors I don't like. I have the Z60 with 20 inch rims. The current ride is firm. Some of the biggest differences I've seen over the years in ride quality came down to rims and tires. Lots of guys will trade ride quality for looks. A lot of my experience is with sports cars. Those larger rims that look bad ass, beat the hell out of me. The tires have tiny shoulders that are susceptible to damage. The ride is tough, but I keep doing it. I can feel the road through the tires and my steering wheel. Sometimes I wince when going down crappy roads, but most the time I love it. Hope that suspension settles in. Would be curious to know what size rims and tires you are running.

Truck looks good Adam. Thanks for the pic

Dan, any particular reason you chose 3rd setting? You running stock tires and rims ? Thx again for the info.

Thanks for the info and pics. Truck looks great.

Dan, Good points. I know exactly what you mean. My son has a new 2019 Raptor with elaborate Fox suspension. You feel every crack on the road, but not in a bad way. I don't have a problem with that and its the only way not to have body roll and wobbly feel in turns or pogo feeling you mentioned off bumps or crappy roads. What setting you running? 5100's or 6112?

Thx, man. I figured the tire had something to do with keeping the spacer. I looked at that tire size and figured I was pushing it since that's a 34" inch tire. Another example of variables. BFG KO2's in that size are slightly wider than stock and are 11" wide. That same size in a Falken Wildpeak AT3 measures 10.6" wide. You have the steel UCA's and I've heard the Stamped Steel UCA, which I have, could present issues on anything wider than stock due to the fact that they are slightly wider and bigger profile than steel. I even considered ordering a set of tubular UCA's with smaller profile, but not convinced it's necessary if I maintain very close to stock width tire. I'm only going to basically 1 1/4 or 1 3/4. When I called Bilstein, the rep said stock(stamped) UCA is fine assuming no spacers involved. He insisted the ride was the same on 3 and 4. I had the feeling that he was just reading off a response card and didn't shed a lot of light on the subject. No trimming with that tire? I'm surprised because you really boosted the total circum. from stock of 100.2 up to 107". Thats a lot. As mentioned , 275/60/20 only increases circum. from 100.2" to 103.6". In your case the outer sidewall + inner maintains same position with stock offset and you simply went higher. The tires I'm looking at are 33" high. In addition that's a 10 ply tire with significant weight increase over stock. I want to say about 58# vs Goodyear LS2 around 40# which is P tire. I'd have to think that is a noticeable change? Thanks again for the info.

Thx Dubwise. You keep the spacer to run bigger tires or simply to get more height up front? Year of truck and mileage? Coming from Z71 or Z60 suspension? Sounds like it's a firmer ride and thats what I'm looking for. I have a sports car and I have no expectations that the 6112 will turn my truck into one. Just firm up things My biggest dilemia is not so much 3rd or 4th setting. The more I think about it , I doubt most people could tell the difference. It's more how it would impact wheel/tire increase. I want to add slightly bigger tires. 275/60/20 with a 20x9 rim. I like the Hostile rims , but only available in +10 or +12 offset. I like a Fuel wheel with +20 offset. The only way you can tell for sure is a test fitting. I keep thinking there have to be others that have tried what I'm trying to accomplish.

Yes. For some reason that really throws me off when the spacer becomes involved. Especially spacer , plus max setting.

Thanks for the write-up and review. I have a set of 6112's in garage waiting for installation on Tuesday. Been back and forth on what setting. I also was thinking setting #4. Installer suggested 3# setting and that made me second guess myself. Have a few days to deceide and 2" blocks for rear if I go #4.

I also think you have to keep in mind , when reading 5100 threads discussing 3rd or 4th setting ride that the 6112 appears to come with a softer coil spring than stock. This should help mute any additional harshness on higher settings, if they even exist. I'm just trying to figure this stuff out, but it doesn't make sense to me that the Bilsteins would ride better set at 0 (stock) with spacers vs the upper settings with no spacers. Maybe I'm missing something, but as I've said before, lots of variables involved.

I've change my mind 10 times and searched tirelessly for info. So much conflicting data. Biggest fear is selecting the wrong height and being disappointed. The most indepth discussion on these is in the Toyota forum since they've been available on those models for some time. No easy task switching the ring, if you want to change. I pulled my truck out and used my floor jack to lift front end ~ 1 1/4" to replicate setting #3 and around 1 3/4" to represent setting #4. I have to say, on my truck standing back 1 1/4 started to look level. (I had roughly an inch of rake). When I replicated 1 3/4" , the front started looking a little high without addressing rear. Leaning towards 3rd setting , but I'd switch to #4 and use a 2" block for rear I have if I could find some good reviews on that setting.

I think the adjustable 5100 is purchased more as a better option to level/lift than spacers. It does a good job and price point of under $90 each seems fair. Better idea if stock is worn and you need new struts and level at once. I'm really hoping the 6112 with larger tube and softer springs will be even better. It's difficult to take things in context when so many replaced stock shocks after they were worn. Trucks start looseing up and a struts can only do so much as other parts wear. Also, many upgraded to more aggressive tires, harder compounds. In any event, I should have a pretty good comparison. I have an appointment to pull my stock shocks and coil springs next Tuesday. I only have 4000 miles on my truck. I have the Z60 suspension. I'm going to have them do the level. Hold off on the wheels until I take a look. I'll let it settle a day or two and then will measure and see if I can fit a 275/60/20 on a 20 x 9 rim with offset range of +10 - +20. So, I'll have a nice chance to compare the struts and coils on basically a new truck with oem rims and tires, before upgrading those. I originally intended to set the 6112 at the highest setting and increase the size of the rear block to 2". Maintaining a little rake. I talked to the installer and his rec'd was to go one ring down to 3 and keep the stock block. He said I'd get a better ride and the truck would look level , but would have about an inch of rake. So, I'll do a write up next week when this is done with pics. I actually like the Z60 suspension. I'm hoping to make it even firmer in turns, eliminate some of the brake dive and the bounce when I hit speed tables that are getting way to popular on my local roads. Most importantly, I wanted to level and put bigger tires without sacrificing ride. Now I only have deceide whether I want to go to the top setting (max) or one down. Not a ton of info out there on ride difference on 2014-18 Silverado with the Bilsteinn 6112's set at 3 or 4.

The width is the issue. If you really want the 12" width, you'd have to be willing or prepared to trim or look at a rim with a lower offset. . One thing you want to keep in mind when you get bigger tires is you really jump up in weight. My stock tire, plus yours is a "P" rated tire. Basically a softer tire made for light snow, highway, low noise and mpg in mind. Weighs about 40#. You move to 275/60/20 A/T, say a Nitto Terra Grappler stays close to stock weight. BF AT KO's will jump up to mid 50# in that size and step up to over 60#'s in the 305. Thats a 50% increase and will have an impact on acceleration and braking. If you want to go bigger, at least check what you can do before buying new tires. If you are buying from a local tire shop, why not find a shop that will do a test fit of 275/60/20? Strike up a conversation , explain situation and tell the shop you'll buy 4 new tires but want to test fit first. If they're not interested, go to next shop. You'll find somebody willing to help. Trim could be minor, or non-existent. Take a look and if you aren't comfortable, go back to stock size and just get a more aggressive looking tread, if that's what you are looking for. I wish it was cut and dry, but it isn't. I'm not a fan of spacers, but many seem happy. I first looked at the Ready-Lift 2 1/2 inch kit that came with the aftermkt UCA's. Then I started looking at coilovers. I was real close between the Eibach Pro Lift kit and the Bilstein's 6112's. I want bigger tires and I think the Bilsteins can make it happen. Hesitant to trim, but willing to pull lower air dam below bumper, possibly upgrade UCA. GL

Those are OEM wheels that came with the truck? What year is your Truck? If that's a late model 1500, the 20" OEM rim measures 20x9 with a +27mm Offset.

All GM 1500's produced after April 1st 2016 have the STAMPED STEEL UCA's. You should have the steel UCA's that are more TUBULAR in design. The Stamped Steel UCA's in newer trucks are flatter and seem wider. Basically you can upgrade the UCAs to an aftermarket Tubular design with smaller footprint if you had the newer version, which you don't. Some guys replace the stamped steel because if you lift to high, it becomes distorted and the ball joint could fail. My Stamped Steel UCA's have no retention clips for Ball joint. None of them do. Bilsteins are designed to keep the stock UCA's. You should be good with the STEEL UCA's and the Bilstein's and the 275/60/20. The problem is none of this is 100% and every truck seems to be a little different. I'm saying this should work because you are keeping the exact width of stock tire, being ( 10.8" )tire width with the 275/60/20. With a 27mm offset the inner sidewall of new tire should be exacty where it is now. The outer sidewall should also be in the same positon. You will have a taller tire (33") vs 31.9" and increase the diameter of the entire tire by a hair over 3". Pay attention to measurement of tires you are looking at.. Some are slightly taller or wider and even a more aggressive tread can come into play between two tires being sold in the same size. Go out and start your truck and turn your wheel all the way in each direction and you will see their isn't a lot of extra room with the silly squared wheel well. They sell plates to cover up any trimming on the lower rear corner of the front wheel well. It's not hard, but damn, hard to get excited about trimming steel on your truck. I've watched vids and pretty simple. Big thing is not to break the plastic clips that hold the small black trim piece in place. Cut, Deburr the steel and hit it with some paint and cover the cut with a plate that is sold for this purpose. I'm adding variables for other guys trying to figure this out. Go to Youtube and search Norcal mod.Also, Zone makes a spacing plate for trimming. This is a pretty helpful video.

I'm still learing the offsets and trying to figure tires and rims. Assuming stock rims and guessing you have +27 offset, that tire moved the inner sidewall exactly .24 " closer to suspension and frame. I might be wrong and others with more experience please chime in, but... If you moved to a +20mm offset, I don't think you would need the spacer. A +20 offset would move the outer sidewall .08 away from suspension with that tire. You did increase the total diameter of the tire though significantly and that could present issues. Total tire diameter would increase from 100.2 up to 105.1 Truck looks nice with tires and level.

I'd be interested in hearing where it rubs, and offset? You running 9" stock width on rims? I have the 6112's and 5100's for rear + 2' motofab blocks for rear in my garage. Going to try and get to a shop this week and talk about install, seek additional offset and tire size advice. I've been looking at Fuel and Hostile wheels 20x9 with Offsets ranging from +10 to +20. I was hoping to order wheels and tires online. Can save some decent money + tax. More if you bundle and add TPMS, lugs and so on. I was pretty sure I'd be safe with the 275/60 20 with the 6112 set at max or next setting down. From what I've read, thats a pretty conservative upsize. I think the 305/55/20 is pushing it, but some guys have made it work. I stopped at a tire shop on Sat. They were busy as hell. One of the guys offered to do a test fitting in the near future. Basically take a wheel and tire that I'm considering (offset + size)and crank the wheel and go from there. He said he'd do the alingment after the level and if I bought tires and rims he'd do the alingment again for free. *I don't intend to have the tire shop install the Bilstein 6112's up front. I originally wanted to do everything at once. I might do the level first now and then check what additional space I have. If I feel comfortable and have freed up space, I'll order online. If not, I'll try the test fitting and pay a little more. I have 20" rims now with 275/55/20. If I do +12 I'm +.59 farther frrom inner suspension. .55 higher to top of fender. +20 offset and I'm a hair over a 1/4 out from suspension/frame. I know those GM truck wheel wells are tight, but hard to imagine it rubbing.

Talking round numbers if you do the adjustable 5100 front and the 5100 rear (nonn adjustable) You are looking at $360. If you do the bilstein 6112 up front and 5100 rear, you are looking around $800. The 6112 comes with new coils and much beefier strut. Take a hard look at the Eibach Pro Truck Lift (stage 1). You can get the package front and rear shocks+ coils for under $600. Add a 2" block and $650 all in. I was real close to going this route. Check out Waterfowlers posts on Eibach. He did a great video on the entire install. Others are chiming in now that they really like. Here's a link if you haven't heard of it. https://eibach.com/us/i-8808-pro-truck-lift-system-stage-1.html

If you only use the Bilstein 5100 on 4th setting , you should be good. That's about 1.75. Now if you are thinking of installing 2 1/2 spacer in front and then keeping the Bilsteins at stock or 0 setting, then thats up to debate on UCA. Most say it's no issue. Everything I've read is if you go much over 2" you could have a problem with the angle. It's crazy since no two trucks are exactly the same. Also remember lots of guys aren't stopping there and are going lower in offset to push wheel out, taller tires, wider tires. Pretty sure the 2018 stock UCA's are stamped steel like i have on 2017. They are wider and can get in the way faster than the aluminum or steel ones in older trucks. Remember that they have adjustable 5100's for the front. The rear 5100's in the rear are not adjustable. They are an upgrade and ALLOW up to an additional 1" lift. I have Z60 suspension vs Z71. Almost positive your stock shocks won't be long enough once you pull stock block and replace with 2". I thought the motofab info was a bit deceiving. I ordered CH-1R. That's a 2" block. They advertise as 1" level. It should net you 3/4 inch. I want to maintain a little bit of rake. They are easy to replace and cheap. Cheaper if you buy them in a package with the front spacers.

That's your call. You'll have to see how it looks when you lift. Tires might look small after lift. I have a 2017 High Country. That model comes with 20" rims and the Stock tires on mine are 275/55/20. Offset is+27. I have P rated tires. They are light and designed for road, highway, quiet and mpg. You move up to LT with some of the more aggressive treads and you can get in the range of mid 50# and even mid 60#'s each. I'm going to swap out those rims and move to a 33" tire. So far I'm trying to keep conservative and do a 275/60/20. That would bump be up from 31.9" to 33. Remember, I'm doing a level. I should be around 1 3/4" higher up front on top setting. Lift it with the spacers and see what you think. The only drawback is you'd have to do a "Front End Alingment" after spacers and again if you deceide to move up in tires, but that 's only around $100. Tires and rims are cheap. GL

I'm learning as I go. If you are going 2 1/2" up front, at least be prepared to replace UCA's. Some guys say they are fine and wheel size and offset can come into play. I do know one thing. I ordered the 2" rear spacer from Motofab. Pulling the stock block and replacing with 2" should net you 3/4 inch lift in rear. I already have the Bilstein 5100's in my garage. They allow stock up to 1" lift. $70 each on Amazon. They would be nice upgrade over Ranchos anyhow and won't break the bank. Most say if you go much over 2" up front, you "COULD" have poor angles on UCA . This is usually disputed back and forth. I went with the new Struts and Coils up front from Bilstein.Model #6112. I should get 1 3/4 up front on max setting #4. Bilstein said they are designed with stock UCA in mind. Both shocks and coils run between $600-$700. You could also look at the adjustable 5100's up front at about $90 a pop. Get the same lift. You reuse stock coils to keep down price point. I'm waiting for the block to arrive from Motofab and then I have to pick out new wheels and bigger tires. Wait till you get into wheels, offsets, backspacing, various tire sizes.. Yes you will need a Front end Alignment anytime you change things up front. Wheels, tires, struts what have you. GL

You have the kit that mounts at the bottom of factory strut? What are you getting 2"? I'd be interested to see or hear what UCA 's look like after this. If I was you, I'd reference mark of even snap a before and after phone pic. I thought of spacers, Bilstein warns against. Lots of guys have spacers and 5100 adjustables and say it;s great. Assuming your getting 2" , 5100 at Max is roughly 1.75. I called Bilstein and only asked about 3rd and 4th setting ride and he insisted that it's designed to have the same ride and maintain a correct UCA angle. I should note this has been disputed by others back and forth. The best answer is from a guy that kept his current wheels and tires and just swapped struts. Majority of people are doing the level at shops and changing wheels and tires in one shot to benefit from lift/level. Some going from P rated to LT, larger rims, different offsets. You can easily increase even tire weight 50% by small change from stock P rated 20" to a LT with conservative 33" tire . Lots and lots of variables. That big stamped UCA comes into play if you get to aggressive with lift, offset or wheel size. Good luck with the new Bilstein's. Hope it works out great whichever way you go.