SierraStorm21

Pirelli All Terrain Plus 275/65/20 116H SL - OEM for Rivian apparently 34.1" Fuel Off-Road Lethal 20x9 GM Performance brake system - 6 piston Brembo and rear Bilstein 5100's - Front set at highest setting

I did dig into this prior to making the jump and replacing the UCA's is not required in my setup. I follow a YouTuber with the exact same truck and year who detailed his transformation with Beilstein's and 34's and made note that replacing the UCA's were not required. The angles had not changed with the AT4 and 20" tires/wheels. In that attached post, he probably had to replace them due to putting in spacers in the front, where I have not.

Yeah, I kick myself for not taking any. I was in total disbelief when they grabbed me to show and said I had to flat bed it, so that's what I was focused on.

I went to Les Schwab near me a few months back and had them install the Bilstein 5100's. Everything appeared to have went well. I hardly drive the truck and it's not my daily, so two months later, last week, I was completely shocked when I took it to Discount Tire to get new tires. Les Schwab didn't carry the ones I wanted, but could special order them. Unfortunately they were way more expensive there than elsewhere ($500 more), but I digress. Discount Tire shop jacked up the truck and pulled off the drivers side tire and bam! The upper control arm just popped out and went sideways a little. The young guys there had never seen that happen and got the Manager to take a look, who then called me out there and asked if I'd had any suspension work done recently. I explained that I had Les Schwab do the struts and shocks and he showed me the result. They'd had forgotten to put the nut back on! DT told me they could still do the tires, but that I should first call LS and then have it flat bedded to them to fix it. I called LS and told them of the issue and they said go ahead and bring it down after I was done.. While I was trying to grasp the severity of the situation, the DT manager took pity on me and was nice enough to go and get me a temporary nut from a local place and put it on. He said it'd hold to get me back to Schwab and have them fix it with the right one. When I arrived at Schwab, they met me in the parking lot and I told them the issue. They took a look without putting it up on the rack and said "Yep, they put a nut on and it's the right thread. You're all good!". I asked if there was anything else they needed to do and they told me, nope, your all good. I explained that the shop put a temp one on. He told me that the types they put on my rig are different, but it looks fine. He did check the passenger side and it was right. I again asked if there was anything they needed to do and was told nope. I was floored and at that point decided to just leave. Not trusting what I was told, I called and scheduled an appointment with the GMC Dealership where I bought it. They took one look and said it's absolutely NOT fine and wouldn't trust the temp nut that the DT shop had put on. They didn't have the part in stock, so I had to make a second trip do the dealership to get it resolved. $55 plus 4 hours of my time and fuel to get something resolved that LS should've got right the first time. I get it, mistakes happen, but the unwillingness to put the rig up on the rack and make sure everything else was done correctly just sort of blew me away. The fact that even after I told them it was a temp nut, not locking or anything and they assured me it was fine was equally shocking. In my line of work, we can't push anything to production without 2 other folks checking to make sure everything looks right. Perhaps LS should employ the same method when doing something that could cause a catastrophic failure if not done right. I was getting ready to write a scathing review for LS and thought I should get clarity on the ramifications of what LS did before I wrote it. My question to those that know, is this being overhyped in regards to what could happen had I hit a good enough bump to cause it pop out? Wouldn't that have just destroyed everything and cause an accident?

Saw this posted over on the AT4 forums and didn't notice anyone posted it here. https://gmauthority.com/blog/2024/04/some-2023-gmc-sierra-and-yukon-units-will-need-a-6-2l-v8-engine-replacement/ General Motors has launched a new Customer Satisfaction Program to address an issue with the 6.2L V8 engine equipped by certain units of the 2023 GMC Sierra 1500 and 2023 GMC Yukon. Affected units may be equipped with a V8 engine with oversized lifter bores. To fix this issue, GM is instructing dealers to replace the entire engine. The new CSP is tagged as “N232413430 Oversized Lifter Bores,” and only affects the 2023 model year for the GMC Sierra 1500 pickup, GMC Yukon SUV, and GMC Yukon XL SUV. To note, this CSP also affects certain units of the 2023 Chevy Silverado 1500, 2023 Chevy Tahoe, and 2023 Chevy Suburban. It’s unclear exactly how many units are affected by this CSP. To be clear, this Customer Satisfaction Program is not a recall. The powerplant in question is the naturally aspirated 6.2L V8 L87 gasoline engine, which was offered as optional in 2023 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT, AT4, and Denali trim levels, and included as standard in 2023 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4X and Denali Ultimate trim levels. With regard to the 2023 GMC Yukon and Yukon XL, the 6.2L V8 L87 engine was offered as optional in AT4 trims, and included as standard in Denali and Denali Ultimate trims. To fix oversized lifter bore issue, GM will replace the entire engine. Vehicle owners affected by this CSP will be contacted directly with more information on how to proceed. The naturally aspirated 6.2L V8 L87 gasoline engine was introduced in conjunction with the all-new fourth-generation 2019 GMC Sierra 1500 and 2019 Chevy Silverado 1500 pickups, and is rated at 420 horsepower and 460 pound-feet of torque. The L87 is considered part of GM’s second-generation EcoTec3 engine family, and serves as a direct successor to the L86 engine. Subscribe to GM Authority for more GM Customer Satisfaction Program news, GMC Sierra news, GMC Yukon news, GMC news, GM technology news, GM business news, and around-the-clock GM news coverage.

There's many threads on here about the exact same question. Do a search for Borla touring and you'll get your answer

My biggest issue with E rated tires is the weight. Till today I was looking at Pirelli 275/65/20 116H SL rated tires until I found out that they only make them in the Rivian OE, which is apparently a 57lbs tire. Stock 275/60/20 inch Goodyears on the AT4 are 41lbs. Going to Rivian OE 39% increase in weight per tire. Going to an E is worse yet depending on brand! Not only is that a sizeable hit on mpg, but performance would take a good hit too. I guess if your only concerned about the look, to each their own.

Yeah I have to disagree with the sentiment that good waxes or sealants compare to good ceramics for longevity. I've been detailing my vehicles since the late 80's and have tried just about everything out there. So many products over those years that I've lost count. Some do better than others and the technology has come a long ways, sure. Some can last several months, but nothing compared to a good ceramic application. I finally decided to try it and had Xpel ceramic put on my 2021 and 3 years later, it's still the same and is warrantied for 5 years. I put a boost coating on every June per the recommendation and never been happier. I too paid a pretty penny, but imo, it's been worth it. I used to spend alot of time detailing, now it's a breeze. That said, mine is garaged and not exposed to the elements full time. Now I will agree alot of what is offered at the dealers and even some shops is complete crap. You have to do your research on what products are good and find someone that is experienced to apply it correctly. Or if you feel comfortable and want to do it yourself, go for it. But imo, nothing compares or lasts as long.

That is so true!

My truck is not my daily driver. I only have 5300 miles on it currently, and the sensors say I'm still at 98%, so that wasn't my concern really. I was asking from the standpoint of if they were worth the cost, do you notice any real difference compared to past vehicles without them. That kind of thing. Doing some more digging on Wildwood, they suffer the same issue as likely any big brake kit in that they don't allow the continued use of the brake sensor, which I kind of like. Powerstop on the other hand looks like it retains that functionality, but isn't a big brake kit. Wondering if you gain any noticeable difference with it though.

There was another thread on here around hard to find parts for replacement on these. DenaliSS actually came back and posted the part numbers on the post he started. Is that not valid anymore? I don't have these brakes, however I was considering them. Wondering if I should reconsider. If you had the choice, stick with them or something like Wildwood or Powerstop?

Great write up. I just got my AT4 back from the shop today from having the the Bilstein 5100 set all the way around done. Did the 1.1" setting in the front as well. I'm still on stock 33's (275/60/20) and I seem to have lost my measurements that I took a few weeks ago prior to this. I've only driven maybe 8 miles since getting it back and I'm 39" in the front and 40.6" in the rear to the bottom of the wheel well. Overall it looks significantly better. As for ride, hard to tell yet. Once it settles in I'll do another set of measurements. Need to adjust the headlights to compensate and I'll take some pictures tomorrow on level ground too.

I love when guys come on here telling others how they should drive their truck....smh. My truck IS my fast car and I go fast in it! It's the whole reason I bought it and modified it. To be different from everyone else.

The shifts are much more defined and felt in the lower gears...1-4. It shifts sooner and crisper under light to medium loads. WOT is the same and the shift points there are probably the same as stock when doing that. You just feel it shifting unlike the stock tune where I could hardly tell. The 1-2 and 2-3 are very definitive and even 3-4 you can feel. After that they are less felt but you can still tell. At first I was going to have him lighten the 1-2 because it was pretty harsh. Especially on the drive home and hitting Portland rush hour traffic. I'd get going 15-20mph and then have to let off the gas again just as it shifted and it'd jerk my head a bit. However after some time it's softened up a bit and I've grown to like it. I'm always in Sport mode anymore. I think I drove it home in normal, but the shifting wasn't any different between the two from what I recall.

Good to know. Thanks for the additional info!

I saw a step by step on another forum for doing this and thought it was a cool idea. I see why you went that color, though I agree with GETGONE, going to get dirty quick! May have to do this for the side covers to match the red on my Whipple. I'm assuming those are pretty simple to take off, but I haven't looked.

I've read through all the threads I could find on this and it seems most folks are using this method to power them. However I have the opposite question that doesn't seem to be stated on any of them. Do they power down when the dome lights turn off? Plan on doing this in the next few months when it warms up and trying to plan out this mod and others.

It found my current truck, 2021 and my previous 2019, but nothing older. 2018 and 2016 couldn't be found

Because I can....why do you care? Yes I'm aware of the diode option to do the same thing and I did that for the fog lights/all lights on mod. I was simply giving the OP another option for relatively cheap

It is...it went onsale during xmas time for $50 off which is still expensive imo. However for me, it'd work as I almost never tow anything, much less have to hook up in the dark. There's also the boostauto mod that's super cheap. How well it works I don't know. Was considering that too or maybe both https://boostautoparts.com/products/bed-cargo-and-reverse-wiring-harness-2019?year=2021&make=GMC&model=Sierra 1500

I've been considering this https://www.diodedynamics.com/hitchmount-led-pod-reverse-kit-for-2019-2023-gmc-sierra-1500.html

Since getting my Whipple done a few months back I've been lately looking to dress up the engine bay around it for a possible show or 2 this Summer. I've managed to only find a few items though. Billet oil cap and dip stick handle in red, then the radiator overflow cap in chrome. I got the Whipple in red Doesn't seem like there are a lot of options available for these trucks. I've managed to find plenty available for Camaro and Corvette however. I'd like to find something for the wiper reservoir and brake fluid caps and anything else that is easily done to give some more visual difference. Anyone know of places that carry these types of items or if the Camaro or Corvette items are cross compatible for things like the brake fluid reservoir and wiper fluid reservoir caps? My Google fu is coming up short

Yeah I concluded as much, but thanks for the clarification Jay and the additional info on the new forthcoming module. I'm in no hurry to acquire something, so I may do that. Thanks!

So I emailed AeroForce and called both Banks and Edge this morning. Banks says no, it's not going to give you an accurate reading because it's reading what the ECM is giving you which is a calculated measurement, not real value. It'd cost another $400 to get the actual boost numbers with some add on kit Edge didn't seem to know and all they could tell me is it's showing what the ECM is showing. That the PIDs presented differ from truck to truck...where's my eye rolling emoji AeroForce states "I believe the Sierra V8 is like the Camaro and Corvette V8’s when it comes to replacing the MAP sensor with a higher range. The tune rescales the MAP output and thus the OBD2 data is rescaled. Our gauge reads this rescaled data and displays accurate boost" Talking with the shop that did my truck. He said it's really measured in kPa and pointed me to a Holley calculation form. Said that most of these OBD2 ones won't give accurate readings. At this point, I think I'm thoroughly confused. How can three different companies give three different answer yet all of them are getting the information from the same source?

I'm not sure what I'm most interested in aside from boost, but if I find something I'll make sure to ping you. Thanks