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SierraStorm21

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  • Location
    Oregon
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2021 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4 6.2L

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  1. All of them for anyone willing to find it on their product page....or do even a basic Google search
  2. Gotta go to the right oil page. You're referencing the wrong stuff https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-supercar-0w-40 Click on Product Data Sheets (PDS) Snip from that
  3. Actually Walmart has it even cheaper and you're able to get the case plus singles there. Regarding Amsoil, it does meet Dexos R according to their website. So I'm not sure where you got that. There's quite a few guys that use it on the Camaro and Vette forums as well so I have zero hesitation in using it in my truck.
  4. I keep this in my Amazon cart, but it was too high priced a few months back when I changed the oil in my truck and the Camaro ZL1, so I ended up getting the Amsoil Signature series gallon jugs for less. They offer a standard version for about 30% less for those wanting to save some $.
  5. Yeah after hearing the email story that DonsLife read on his channel last week where the owner was having performance issues and no one could track it down, then coming in for the test, it passes, but then the tech heard something that didn't sound right. Dug a little further and found it was on the verge of imploding, and is getting a new engine, didn't inspire any confidence about the test and it's validity
  6. If this is indeed true, I wonder why you have dealers pestering folks about bringing in their truck for the recall. One of my local dealers reaches out via phone, email and text every few weeks trying to get me to come in. Yet the status according to the NHSTA for mine is Recall Incomplete, remedy not yet available I'm sort of waiting on the sidelines for now to see how this unfolds
  7. I have not yet received my letter in the mail and am the original purchaser, so I'd expect that to be arriving soon. However has anyone had their local dealership cold call them to schedule a service appointment regarding the recall? Just received such a call about an hour ago, but wasn't able to answer so they left a detailed VM and extension to call back.
  8. Yeah that's the way to go. I did, stock was 347.3 WHP / 388 /WTQ and after both the Whipple, Alky Control and custom tune, I was at 554 WHP / 504 WTQ. Using an online calculator, it estimates I'm at 670 HP / 610 TQ at the crank. Who are you going with to do it?
  9. I did, but I'm not sure I'd do it again for a few reasons. I have to keep the Windshield Wiper fluid reservoir 2/3 or more full in order to not have a cavitation problem with the system when driving. So I fill it up every time I go to drive it. That's apparently due to the angle and design of the factory reservoir where the feed comes out and EPC offered to make a custom reservoir, but I decided against it. I even had a leak a few weeks after it was done and had to drive it back up there to have it resolved. The problem was that the fittings Alky sends aren't a perfect fit for a truck setup. So they came up with their own custom fittings solution and it's been rock solid since. Secondly it's not something that is going to be maintenance free. It's kind of complex setup with a pump in the fender well and modules under the dash and while I understand the concept, it's not something I want to mess with. Additionally, since I'm not local to the shop that did it, if anything were to go wrong, I'd have to deal with it on my own or find a way to get it 5.5 hours to the shop or find someone else closer, which I have not yet found. For the positives, it's like a mini NOS boost when it engages, kind of fun. Additionally, it's cooling down the intake temps and lastly, it's keeping everything clean internally. I'd probably opt for a different route, like a DoD delete with new pushrods, lifters, springs and cam. But that's going to be much more costly. I might end up doing that in a few years anyway and that point, decide whether to keep the Alky or remove it.
  10. Wasn't that the springs debacle back in mid 2020 to March 2021? I think I looked after mine arrived off the truck and it was an April build date on the engine so I was relieved. NHTSA's site says I'm part of this current recall, but I need to get under there and check again for the exact date. I'm not even sure it's worth my time to take it to the local dealer given my upgrades. Just swap out the oil and pray nothing happens until I get the funds and replace all the internals myself. I do have a decent report with them...I suppose the worse they can tell me is no.
  11. With all the updates/mods I've done to mine, I too have spent a considerable amount of time looking and reading. The local car accessories shop installers don't seem to think I need anything over what the truck is outfitted with, immobilizer/fob, however I've watched and read about how easily those are defeated too. So I disagree with their assessment and have been looking at this item that installs an E-Lock relay kill switch, among other items. With the price of kit and installation being around $900 total, it's not for the faint of heart, but does provide real time monitoring. Course it's a subscription model to get that real time monitoring, which I'm not a fan of, so that's a negative. I'm a firm believer of 'if there's a will, there's a way' and if they want it bad enough, they are going to take it. However making it harder and more risky is the key so that they look elsewhere and I think this kit does that.
  12. I've been doing some searching as well. Posts here and on other forums led me to these guys. I'm not quite ready yet, so I haven't reached out https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-1206391-gears-install-kits-carriers-spider-gears-general-motors-gm-9-76-12-bolt-ring-pinions.html
  13. That's who I used. They are great. I found them by just searching online and then @kodiakdenali referred me to them as well. Unfortunately they are a 12 hour round trip for me. Just so your aware, doing the Whipple gets you the Whipple static tune. There is no customizing it beyond that. Whipple encrypts it so he's unable to see what they've done. If you want to do the Whipple and a custom tune, that's something different where he has to start from scratch essentially. If this were my daily driver, the Whipple tune is pretty good and fairly refined. It leaves some HP on the table as I've mentioned previously, but if you want a good amount of power and reliability, the stock Whipple tune is fine. His trans tuning brings it all together though imo. If this were my daily, I might have it adjusted slightly to be less harsh on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, but for me, it's great.
  14. Yeah, was the package from GM accessories site and installed by a local dealer. I'll pull the passenger side off tomorrow and check it as well. Here's a short video I did this evening of my trying to rotate it. There are no other issues aside from that..no pulling or anything On the Whipple. yeah I posted something back in March..here's the link. I'll be posting more there relatively soon. I've done a fair amount since then.
  15. Let me preface this with that of all the things I've done myself to my trucks over the years, I've never done my own brake job, so I'm not intimately familiar with brakes. With that said, a few months ago, I got the GM Performance brake system put on at the dealer and noticed pretty quickly that there seemed to be more resistance to a free spinning tire right out of the gate. It's not my daily and park in a garage, so when I go to drive it, will start it up, put it into neutral and it will roll slowly out of the garage onto the driveway and by the time it does, it has usually calmed down to it's normal idle RPM. However since getting that package installed, It won't roll out and only moves a few feet. So over the weekend I pulled off one of the front tires and was inspecting the brake setup, among other things, and noticed that I could not very easily spin the wheel. It takes a little bit of muscle to rotate it and it's not free spinning like the OEM's were. I could tell that the pad was pressed up against the rotor more than I would think it should be, creating the resistance. However I don't have any experience in this area. Are big brake kits supposed to be like that?
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