RobZ71LM7

^Dammit. They're now putting the wheels I just bought on the 2017 GMC's from the factory (Yeah I know the Silverado blackout has them too). At least I didn't buy rock stars or fuel mavericks or...

I have one Michelin that's the difference on that wheel. Anyways I don't have any issues right now and if goes up or changes I'll get it warrantied.

Issue resolved. The CK106 wheels fixed my balance issue. 3/4 are down to single digit road force. I have 1 wheel/tire in the mid 20's but that's well within the limits. They also fit on the hubs a lot tighter. I'll take some more pics with the wheels and truck clean. I drove through a rain storm to the lake when this one was taken. The weather never lines up with when I wash my truck.

86 parking light 85 ground 87 low beam 30 low beam 87a (if applicable-not used) Yes, two relays one for each side.

When I had the bad wheel (on the rear) my truck started doing the center console shake that the trucks in the 350 page thread were doing. Any driveline and rear end vibration seems to be exciting the truck. I think there's something very borderline in terms of resonant frequencies and harmonics in these trucks that allows anything off spec int he rear or a situation the result of tolerance stacking to cause this vibration.

It's a purplish pink wire with a stripe if I recall correctly. It's also very thin since it only carries current for the parking lamps-I think it was 20 awg. It's probably easier to identify it as the wire that connects to the fat yellow wire on the other side of the plug (the headlight plug). Anyways I cut the wire, joined it with an 18 awg wire to signal my relay using a butt splice and heat shrink. I should add you only need 1 relay if you have an HID kit as most HID kits are single input for signal. Because I'm switching the signal wire going to the HID relays I'm not really load carrying so I'm not affecting voltage drop by using one relay/circuit.

I just completed the relay mod yesterday. It cost me all of $20 for a waterproof relay. I tapped into the parking light power and used it to signal the relay. The relay simply completes or opens the circuit between my factory low beam signal and the HID kit relays. Everything now works like stock Auto, Off, Parking, Parking & Headlights, the only difference is that the DRL's never come on. The best part is without DRL's I've now been able to get rid of my capacitor thus simplifying the setup. And now I'm not cycling my expensive HID's everytime I start the truck and go from drive to park.

Just completed the mod. I added a Probably the exact same way the relay mod here works only they are charging you 10 times as much. Their kit simply plugs in between the factory headlight plug.

I may have just been unlucky, but two wheels and the fact I want to put a definite end to this on my 3rd trip to a tire shop has me going OEM/GM. At first I only notice it at certain speeds and on rough pavement so I attributed it to my sway bar and I softened the bar up. In fact both bad wheels were in the rear and the bar on it's stiffer setting was transmitting more road forces and vibration to the cab. The first place just spun balanced them and should've caught it. CK106 wheels were my #2 choice so this isn't all that bad. After this experience I will never go to a place without a Hunter road force machine. Their website has a locator by address/zip code of shops equipped. I picked one with the new "touchscreen" model so I knew the machine was probably not abused yet. What you might do is put the new wheels on your front axle bare and spin them and measure runout with a dial indicator in two directions-this would find a dimensional issue (maybe not a heavy spot though). If my lazy butt had done that I would've been ok. Ok I know I'm long winded, but back in the day I used to autocross/open track a 4th gen f-body. I used a couple sets of OE Wheels ZR1 reproductions with decent results. The only thing was they were very heavy versus OEM GM wheels on the order of 7 lbs difference on 17's. I'm going to weigh these GM wheels versus the OE wheels (I know different style) and post results. I may run them with a dial indicator and post runout comparisons too if anyone is curious. I have a feeling the GM wheels will be much lighter and more accurate.

Sorry to quote myself, but I wanted to provide some feedback. I had a vibration so I took the truck to a better shop today with a Hunter road force balancer. They found one wheel is bent (note no shipping damage) and another they could not get a good road force balance on and it wasn't the Michelin's. I would advise staying away from cheap reporductions. OE Wheels is going to send me two replacement wheels in exchange, but I've had it and am going to sell them on craigslist when I get the replacements. I'll get more money that way versus having to pay for shipping. For anyone unfamiliar OE Wheels makes almost all the GM reproductions wheels on ebay. Sh!t happens, but the wheels left their factory this way. On the bright side I installed a level kit in the front, got the truck aligned and truck looks much better! It just sucks waiting on wheels again. I just ordered some genuine 20" GM CK106 wheels in black like LTZTom and should have them this week. I'm going with black center caps.

Correct. I do it in drive-thru's all the time and pulling into my driveway or when near neighbor's houses at night.

On my truck in "P" my low beams are never on.

Thanks, I love it. Will do. I'm a huge Michelin fan. Only issue is I need to sand some of the bores as the paint is heavy making two center caps not fit flush. I've got a 1" front lift kit (lower Al spacer blocks) I'm going to add this week to raise the front end a little. I think that will look nice but keep some rake for loads. I have airbags, but I don't want to add air every time I put a load in the back. The truck rides much stiffer than with the 18" wheels and Goodyears. I had to put my adjustable rear sway bar on full soft (was at middle setting) to get the rear end to settle down at 75+ on a rough section of interstate. The truck had a center console shake but only on rough interstate, moving the bar to full soft fixed it. I suspect with a load in the bed this issue would go away and the bar could be stiffened back up.

He's doing the relay method differently than I am. All you have to do with the relay method is splice/tap the wire for the parking lamps (allowing it to still power the parking lamps) using it to energize the relay. So in P the parking lamps should still work, they are energizing a relay to the low beams, but energizing the relay does nothing to turn on the low beams unless power for the low beams is already there. Now this wouldn't work if you took power from the battery for the low beams, but I'm using the OEM low beam power which is only hot in DRL mode (now interrupted by the relay), auto when dark, and when the headlamps are manually switched to on. The relay now uses the parking light signal to allow this circuit to complete so both conditions have to be met for the low beams to lights up: power from the truck on the low beam circuit, and power to the parking lamps. In "P" only condition 2 is met so only the parking lights are on.

Gibson 500427-B, not cheap, but when you see one in person you'll understand why (double wall very thick). Shipping weight was 5 lbs. http://gibsonperformance.com/products/retail_prod_annoucement.php?product_number=500427-B http://www.amazon.com/Gibson-500427-B-Elite-Series-Exhaust/dp/B00BHD1MLA I did have to widen the clamping slot with a metabo blade to allow it to clamp tighter.

I'm doing the relay method. One problem I would see with a pin swap is if you manually put your lights in "P", your parking lights would turn off but low beams still be on. I like to be able to turn off my low beams but keep parking lights on at times. Maybe I'm missing something.

275/55/20 Michelin LTX A/T 2 OE Wheels 20x9 oem offset black CK156 replicas (in 20 instead of 22) http://www.oewheelsllc.com/Wheels_3/Wheels-for-Chevy-Trucks/20-Fits-GMC-Sierra-Wheels-Matte-Black-20x9-SET Going to swap to black McGard lugs when they arrive from Amazon. Also added a dual wall Gibson 4" black ceramic coated exhaust tip to set off the wheels. I love silver-the truck is dirty in these pics-drove through a rain storm with Cquartz on.

Thank you! This will make some new mods much easier.

That doesn't look too bad. I already bought the tires though-being delivered today. I am going to add lift blocks to the front, but only a 1" front lift since I tow.

Just 55 series tires since I have a 2wd and don't want to look like a poser. But the all terrains should get better traction at the boat ramp and other places.

Just ordered these 20x9's in matte black along with some 275 Michelin LTX A/T's. Cannot wait, I'm so sick of the factory 18's.

Significant increase in power/torque.

Longtubes.

Any thoughts on these wheels? http://www.blackrhinowheels.com/truck-wheels-rims-Everest.php https://www.google.com/search?q=black+rhino+everest&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAkQ_AUoA2oVChMImv6RwNLTxwIVRvI-Ch2xtgi4&biw=1920&bih=1031#imgrc=_ I'm thinking of a set in 20x9 to replace my factory 18's along with some Cooper A/T3's.

Yeah, it's an aerosol can.. others in this thread are talking about pouring from a bottle of liquid sea foam which is a big difference. Also even using the serosol spray if you don't have the RPM's high enough you can easily contaminate the oil, but hey it's your engine. Of course the manufacturer doesn't tell you that you need to change the oil-an extra step adds complications. Ask over at BITOG if you should change your oil afterwards. ;) High iron everytime.