RobZ71LM7

It's a Silverado thing... so many panties get dropped you need a place to store them.

Ordered the parts for my 2014 today-yes it's worth it so I don't have to waste time at the dealer.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/370701293123?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Carriage Works Black Billet. It's simple +12V and ground... I ran it across the headliner, down the pillar and into a keyed 12V source in the black box with the open plug GM lists for upfitters. Nice to have the truck join the current decade or century in terms of mirrors.

This is a few weeks ago but removed the last of the body molding and drove to the lake in the rain (it's low: at winter pool in the pics). Just washed and waxed with Collinite 845 yesterday. Cannot wait for warm weather.

Installed a self dimming rear view mirror on my LT. I hid the old factory connector since this pic was taken. Gentex 50-GENK2AM

Carriage Works black billet.

Added two O2 bungs so I can compare both banks. First time backpurging SS. Not perfect but more than good enough. I'm an amateur tig welder.

Is the dash speaker basically a tweeter? I'm wondering about doing front door component speakers and just routing the tweeter into the dash. Thoughts?

Nope. Parking light circuit is low brightness and not the same as the turn signal circuit.

Amp ignitor gives you a lot more room to play behind the cap and inside the bulb for an easier install.

I liked the DRL's until I got HID's. It just adds too many cycles to the ballasts and bulbs. I also found it annoying they went off in park. Imagine being in a drive thru or long line and going in and out of park. I'm looking for a clean way to possibly add Osram LED DRL's to my truck.

You're correct in the fact that if you use your factory housings and your labor is free it's less than $400 USD in parts. But I understand the desire for a simple, reliable plug and play-it was a lot of work and I don't consider anyone not doing it to be lazy. I did it because I enjoyed it, but I wouldn't do it to save money. I'd be surprised if we could do a full OEM '16 HID conversion with new parts for less than $1600 USD. The current '14-15 Silverado LTZ projector housings are ~$600 each and then you have to factor in the costs of OEM ballasts and bulbs. FYI: you don't need special ballasts for any of this. You simply need a relay harness to provide power for the ballasts. The special thing is you need a capacitor wired in parallel with the OEM signal that triggers the relay. Note: I'm speaking for the Silverado.

Thanks for the kind words. For the turn signals I'm currently running Vled 7443 hi-vis amber LED's. Tritons would be ideal, but costly since you need two sets. My HID bulbs are Osram 66240 CBI's. $170 a pair, but worth it. Personally, I'd be surprised if 2016 headlights are that great. There is not a single OEM HID projector that can touch the FX-R. People will still do retrofits going forward.

OEM LTZ headlights (takeoffs) that I retrofitted with FX-R 3.0 3" projectors. I simply removed the amber reflectors when I had them apart. Fog lights are Rigid D2 SAE fog lights. If you want more info shoot me a PM-I don't want to clutter up the wheel thread.

Extang Solid Fold 2.0. Nice improvement over my junky Tonno-Pro.

Here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/370701293123?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Be aware that they are pretty thin. My grille is billet and doesn't fully support the emblems so I'm going to put a black piece of ABS plastic cut to the same shape behind the emblem to better support it. Others here have the emblems they come in 5.3, 6.2 and multiple colors.

5.3L emblem on grille.

CK106 wheels with black center caps and McGard black lugs. Michelin LTX A/T2 275/55/20. 1.0" front lift kit blocks. There is no part number for the center caps in black that I can find, but I bought mine here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151763016007 I also put a coat of Cquartz UK on the wheels to protect them.

Plasti-dipped my tail pipe black to match my black ceramic exhaust tip. Now I no longer have my tailipipe sticking out through the fender well nor making the the tailpipe to tip transition ridoculously obvious.

5.3 emblem (also sells other emblems including 6.2) http://www.ebay.com/itm/370701293123?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Caddy Engine cover GM Part #12643295 Chevy emblem GM part #92068693 Headers are Kook's long tube 1-3/4" with off-road y. The intake is an Airaid MIT.

Amp Ignitor & Amp to D2S Adapter: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/ballasts/morimoto-xb35-amp-hid-xenon-ballasts.html#.Vglic9JViHo http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/amp-d2s-ballast-adapter-90-degree.html#.Vgli6tJViHo D2S Ignitor: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/ballasts/morimoto-xb35-d2s-hid-xenon-ballasts.html#.VgliQ9JViHo Notice the amount of space behind the bulb. I doubt the shapeways cap can accommodate a D2S ignitor, but can probably accomodate the former. But I could be wrong. I went with the conventional D2S setup for the ability to run OEM ballasts.

The kit will replace your low-beam with a Bixenon FX-R projector. The projector has high beam function built in with two wires which you will tap into your factory high beam. When triggered by the high beams the shutter is pulled down creating a high beam pattern. You will also need to buy these for the cleanest split: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/high-beam-splitters.html#.VglgiNJViHo I don't think the bulb mounted D2S ignitors will fit under the caps a member created here. You may want amp ignitors for those caps to fit. I have regular D2S ignitors which mount directly behind the bulb on the socket. I did the above with the splitter and I now have 4 high beams-FX-R's with factory halogen high beams is insanely bright.

Just added the Elite Engineering clean side separator to complement my catch can. The Airaid MIT uses 5/8" hoses and barbs so I bought a 5/8" heater bypass cap to block off one port on the MIT tube. I also bought a brass barbed 3/8" to 5/8" fitting to adapt the separator's 3/8" inlet hose to the left over 5/8" Airaid hose. I ran the supplied 1/2" hose which connects each valve cover underneath my engine cover.