RobZ71LM7

Just installed and tested out my new bulbs: Osram 66240 CBI's. They work great and are PURE white with my 35W morimoto ballasts. Pricey, but I think they were worth it. I did run into a ricer with a PNP HID kit and let's just say my FX-R's bi-xenons on high combined with Halogen high beams won. The light output in f'ing insane with all four linked together.

Could be. I like these relays for critical items that need to be water resistant: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TEO9GU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VU9D0C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

While changing bulbs and redoing my headlight caps to a better seal I decided to increase the housings availability to breathe. I'm one of the guys who's completely stock lights had mild condensation GM said was normal. I noticed TRS sells and recommends Gore-Tex patches so I picked up some goretex and drilled the high beam caps with two large holes and covered them with the patches. No moisture gets in, but the housings breathe better now. I figured the high beam caps would be easily fixed if there is an issue. I also put another set of holes up high on the side of the housing.

If you don't you'll have higher engine wear. The Seafoam when used as a top engine cleaner will wash down the cylinder walls and you'll have high iron numbers-seen it before on used oil analysis*. I only use these cleaners right before an oil change. I also don't recommend adding it to the oil-it's an old school harsh solvent that is not good to get in your oil. *Years go I was dumb enoigh to do this with GM top engine cleaner and my iron #'s quadrupled for that period and were normal before and after.

Just remember to change your oil afterwards.

I was all set to run 55W ballasts with my FX-R's, but I still found some people that had managed to damage FX-R's running 55W ballasts over on Hidplanet. Some never have issues, but I'm not lucky and I have too much time in my retro to risk it. The other feedback I got was people had less eye strain with 35W driving for long periods at night.

I mean versus the old V6, the 3/4 of a 350 V6 that was noncompetitive with the rest of the full size V6 trucks

Good deal. I've run both Morimoto 4500 and 5500k bulbs and am looking for an upgrade. The 4500's were fine, but I have a small artifact above the cutoff line with the 5500k. I'd rather switch to an OEM bulb at this and be able to leave it alone for years. I'll probably stick with 35W ballasts, my FX-R's are awesome and I'd like the longer bulb life.

They should've changed the displacement on the new v6 so people would realize it's a new engine. The new 4.3 V6 will put most 5.3's on this site to shame.

Anyone on here running Osram CBI D2S bulbs? (Genuine ones not the fakes)

I personally think the one post that started that long thread is a placebo effect.

I'm not going to take this personal, I'm just assuming you're responding out of emotion from your near miss. My hitch carrier is a $200 dollar one bolted together with grade 8 bolts. It's not a harbor freight cheapie like you probably encountered. I also went beyond the instructions and welded it together. I'm also an AWS certified welding inspector and mechanical engineer. The 25 gallons of fuel (which is evenly distributed) is well within the manufacturer's rated capacity which is 500 lbs before I upgraded it. What you don't see in that pic because I fueling is I also run a safety chain between the handles of all the jugs and the frame. I plan to replace this with a 5' rod and lock. Your time would be better spent worrying about what families tie to the roofs of their SUV's or at one of any countless home improvement centers where people either overload their vehicle or poorly secure their cargo. Or people on this forum running HID in reflector housings or regular halogen projectors. Now these are things that are totally inconsiderate of other's safety.

Made and varnished a wood rack for my VP fuel jugs. I feel safer transporting fuel back here, plus it frees up cargo space when not towing. And before anyone asks the local and KY state police do not enforce CARB regulations with respect to fuel containers.

Flat black vinyl Bowtie overlay in steering wheel.

That would be called a vacuum leak.

Finished setting up and testing my FX-R retrofit and verifying DRL function.

Either your capacitor is bad, you have a bad ground, or the harness is backwards. I just tested mine and my DRL's work perfectly with the capacitor as it came. This should be what you have below. Refer to the second picture on swapping pins in the plug if that is indeed the problem. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/capacitor-relay-harness-link.html#.VckiTKgVhBc

Yup, I used stainless too.

Video's of switchbacks in operation:

Morimoto FX-R 3.0” LHD Bi-Xenon Fast Headlights brackets Morimoto XB-35 ballast Morimoto XB 4500K D2S bulbs Morimoto HD relay w/ H11 adapter Morimoto Capacitor kit High beam splitter (for Bi-xenon plus OEM highbeam function) Sirius LED Amber/White 7443 switchback bulbs (white sidemarker, amber signal) 6 ohm 50 watt resistors X4 I started with used LTZ housings and took them apart to clean up some dirt (they came without dust caps and someone had removed enough parts). Here's what I did: 1) Baked @ 270 deg F for 22 minutes and seperated 2) Dremel w/burr bit to remove all factory permaseal from channels 3) Polished inside and outside of headlight lenses 4) Removed Amber sidemarker lenses 5) Installed Fast Headlight brackets and FX-R projectors-see NOTE below* 6) Killed each screw holding in projector with JB weld so it can never come loose 7) Wired bi-xenon leads to 9005 plug and plugged this into splitter with OEM high beam 8) Wired additional leads in parallel with turn signals** 9) Filled housing channels with 3M window weld butyl and heated to 220 deg F and pressed headlight back together 10) Installed 4500K HIS bulbs, 9011 high beam bulbs, and LED switchbacks *Note: I did not care for the fact fastheadlights has you thread the upper brackets with 8-32 machine screws into a coarse slot. I chose instead to through drill the factory holes and replace the 8-32 1" long screws with 2" long screws and through bolt them for added security. I did not want to have to get back inside the headlights. Part of the reason I stripped the housings was so that I could have all 4 screws holding the projector rather than just 3. **Note 2: I tapped into each turn signal lead in parallel with long wires and quick disonnects to allow me to remotely mount the resistors where they can easy be replaced in the future without rewiring or taking anything apart.

The HD relay plus capcitor kit should solve that. Put the capacitor kit between the stock headlight bulb plug and the relay and make sure the capcitor kit has a good ground.

A little preview before I do my write up and finish the last few details.

What you can do is have a relay that is triggered by the low beam circuit to make your positive lead hot. A second SPDT relay, shown below, can be used to make or break the ground for these lights by tapping into the high beam circuit. Put the light's ground on the terminal 87a and your chassis ground on 30, when high beams energize this relay the ground circuit will be open (moves from 87a to 87) and your lights will go off. Not sure if there is an easier way, but this is how I've accomplished a similar task in the past.

Anyone running the Morimoto 55w kit in FX-R's on a Silverado? I just got some lightly used LTZ projector headlights and am going to install FX-R's with the fastheadlight's bracket. I'm wondering if the 55W kit will cause any issues long term with the housing or brackets due to the heat.