SilveradoRST

Hotrodz37, how did clean the area before applying the Permatex? I saw you taped off the area. Did you just run some water on top the existing sealant and dry it with a blower?

So after getting my window goop with Kent sealant, it’s leaking again. But this time it only leaks after a long rain. Survives a touch-less car wash however. Wondering if anyone has a copy of the official instructions to lower the headliner? I’d like to see maybe if I can spot the breach point add some more sealant. I’d rather delay having to go back to the dealer until GM comes up with a more permanent fix.

There is a slight dip in mine after they sealed the read window but it is not as bad as this. Mine doesn't dip below the metal frame/bar.

I am by no means an expert but from reading this thread seems like the TSB called from Kent High Tech Clear Sealant or equivalent but there was another fella here that had the yellow stuff and it also failed. Not to say if you got the clear stuff it would have work. Also don’t know if you live in the salt belt but the sealant needs >16 hours to cure properly in above 50f temps. And someone here had theorized that maybe the lack of individual seals on all the mounting holes between the spoiler and cab could cause more water to leak in. There is one long seal that runs along the underneath top edge of the spoiler. If the tech didn’t tighten the spoiler to the cab, I can see the leak being worse. Of course this doesn’t explain why the non-sliding windows don’t leak. Lots of info. Glad this thread exists.

Looks fantastic.

Did they let the sealant properly cure for 24 hours indoors before they gave it back to you when you did the TSB?

I'm sorry to hear you guys are waiting this long to get a headliner or rear window replaced. Not acceptable at all. Just wanted to follow up on my bolt left behind after my window sealant work. Seems like it wasn't an 1 1/2", but the length of a Canadian quarter. Similar size to a US quarter. I'm hoping it is a bolt that belongs to anywhere but the ones holding up the spoiler from inside/underneath the headliner. If any of you guys have any idea, please let me know.

I saw those pictures. I see there were a few plastic retainers on the inside of the spoiler that snaps into the cab. The TSB for the rear window leak sealant process looks like there’s only 2 screw around the third brake light once you drop the headliner. I know the picture may not tell the whole story. Reason I ask is I had the sealant done recently and I found one single 1 1/2” or so black bolt/screw (sorry not good with the terminology) on the backseat. I’m guessing the tech didn’t put it back where it belongs. I’d rather not go back to the dealership if it is not an immediate issue I need to address. But if my spoiler is only being held by 1 bolt and a few plastic retainers then I guess I need it addressed.

Anyone know how many screws hold the rear spoiler to the top of the cab? Is it 2 only?

Is it fair to say it is the less than stellar plastic used by the rear window manufacturer that's cracking and thus causing the leaks? I saw the picture posted here earlier of the cab design where it slops down behind the spoiler and onto the top fo the rear window frame. I know some say it is a bad cab design. And I get GM has say in the quality of the plastic being used on the frame, so GM is accountable. Just asking the question to better understand the physical fault point.

Literally dropped it 30mins a go. Still waiting for a call to get an official assessment. Gave them the TSB I got from here. So I’ll update when I find out.

Logo is a nice touch. How did you manage to do that? Very cool!

Anyone had their rear window caulked and truck returned to them on the same day?

Makes me want to just do the caulking myself. FFS.

Thanks. Sounds like there is hope yet to stopping the leaks. I’ll have to wait until mine leaks a bit more. I already wiped away what was there and there is no evidence of corrosion or water stains anywhere yet.

Any reported success with either the caulking job or with a new window? I found a few trickles of water on my passenger rear. Literally a few drops after a car wash. So it is beginning for me.

Wondering if going through an automatic car wash, the down force pressure of the water or even the dryers after would cause the plastic window frame to crack. *I know, automatic car washes are satan’s bath houses. But I do go to the touchless ones when I can’t get to a coin wash.

Thanks for this. Keep us updated.

Thanks for this. Almost thinking if I should take a proactive approach and apply the caulking now myself before any cracks develop. It feels like the cracks/leaks are inevitable.

Are there any pictures of the crack window frame or whatever the common failure point is that’s causing these leaks? Would be interested to see. Or is it still an unknown as to what exactly is causing the leaks?

Did the Brake Recall and had it happen once so far without starting the truck with the GM App. I was in Accessory mode for about 10-15 mins, music playing and when I went to start the truck from inside, I got the Service Brake messages again. Brought it in and dealer reset and charged my battery. So now, no GM App starting and no Accessory mode for me.

Can anyone post the details of the PIT5728B bulletin? Wasn’t able to find it via Google maybe too new or it is not publicly viewable? Sorry, I’m new to this so I don’t know how that works.

May I ask if you’ve swapped out incandescent to led for your backup light or license plate light?

I had experienced this issue last week after using my OnStar app to remote start. Dealer reset it so the CEL could come off. But today I experienced the Service Brake, etc messages again without any OnStar remote start. Sitting in the truck in Accessory mode for 10-15 minutes. CarPlay playing some music. Then started the truck inside and boom. Service Brake galore. Dealer suspected my Accessory mode usage zapped the already low battery to trigger the messages. Anyone experiencing the same?

I was always under the impression that painted metal parts wouldn’t rust as easily unless there are chips or exposed metal to water. Hence, there is always talk about how GM should have painted frames instead of the wax coating to better protect it from corrosion. I get paint isn’t going to be a permanent corrosion inhibitor but that rust seems to be a bit more rust than I would expect for painted parts on a new truck.