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jay webb

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About jay webb

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  1. the lines attach to the side/back of the compressor , if and when the took it lose to remove the bracket and water pump the line could of got damaged. the tech will get paid for the non come back repair.
  2. sounds like an actuator is the issue. they open/close doors in the ac case to direct air flow. or maybe a broken door
  3. 15-06-04-002: Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated, Fuel Tank Hard to Fill, DTCs P0442, P0446, P0455 or P0449 Set Some customers may comment on the following conditions: The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) is illuminated. The fuel tank is hard to fill. Technicians may find one or more of the following DTCs: P0442, P0446, P0455 or P0449 set as current or in history and there may be evidence of dust or water intrusion at the evaporative emissions (EVAP) canister vent solenoid (CVS) valve. Cause The EVAP CVS valve draws fresh air into the EVAP system through a vent attached at the top of the conduit that is secured to the fuel filler pipe. Under certain operating conditions, dirt and dust intrusion into the CVS fresh air intake/venting system may result in restricted air flow. Under certain operating conditions, if water is ingested into the EVAP CVS fresh air intake/venting system, it may reach the CVS valve causing corrosion in the CVS valve and may cause restrictions in the fresh air intake path when the CVS valve is in the closed position. Ingested water will also collect in the CVS valve cyclonic filter in order to protect the EVAP canister. However if the capacity of the cyclonic filter is exceeded, this may result in water entering the EVAP canister and cause an additional restriction during refueling. Correction Note: DO NOT replace the EVAP canister assembly for this concern unless it fails the leak test or it has ingested excessive amounts of dirt, dust or water. After following the published SI diagnostics and determining that the EVAP CVS valve is the cause of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination or the hard to fill symptom, replace the existing EVAP CVS valve assembly with the new revised design assembly. Original design EVAP CVS valve shown above. Revised design EVAP CVS valve shown above. This revised EVAP CVS valve assembly is a sealed unit that is vented through a remote pre-filter mounted atop the fuel filler housing. The revised CVS valve incorporates improved filtering capacity. To ensure correct installation, follow the procedure outlined below: Important: DO NOT make any sharp bends or allow any kinks in the hose when routing the hose. Note: Apply loc-tite 401 or equivalent (SuperGlue, etc.) to the end of the heater hose (1) which will go into the CVS valve rubber coupling. Turn OFF the ignition, and all electrical components, including the scan tool. Note: DO NOT remove the fuel fill cap in order to prevent any debris from entering the fill pipe. Remove the fuel tank filler pipe housing to body TORX screws and retainer. Reposition the filler housing and pipe to improve access to the EVAP pre-filter located on the top of the fuel filler housing. Release the tabs (1) securing the EVAP pre-filter housing (2) to the top of the fuel filler housing. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in SI. Disconnect the vehicle chassis wiring harness electrical connector from the CVS valve. Disconnect the CVS valve assembly quick connect fitting from the EVAP canister. Refer to Plastic Collar Quick Connect Fitting Service in SI. Note the routing of the pre-filter hose along the frame rail and fuel fill pipe assembly, then disconnect the filter line clips and remove the filter assembly/line from above the frame rail and fuel filler pipe assembly. Cut off the CVS valve assembly line with quick connect fitting from the CVS valve as shown above. Remove the complete CVS valve and filter assembly/line from the CVS bracket on the vehicle. Install the cut off the CVS valve assembly line with quick connect fitting to the CVS valve as shown above. Match the approximate angle of the line on the original valve and clamp into place. Install the new CVS valve assembly to the vehicle. Measure the length of the hose on the removed EVAP CVS assembly from the pre-filter to the CVS filter. Allow extra length to ensure there will be no kinks in the heater hose, and cut the needed length of the specified heater hose. The hose will run along the frame rail in the same manner as the original pre-filter hose. Install the new pre-filter and filter housing to one end of the hose and clamp in place. Partially lower vehicle. Through the fuel tank filler pipe housing opening, install the pre-filter and housing (2) with hose attached to the back of the fuel tank filler pipe housing. Secure the tabs of the filter (1) to the slots in the filler pipe housing. Install the fuel tank filler pipe housing to the body. Raise the vehicle. Carefully route the pre-filter hose along the fuel filler pipe and frame rail and over to the CVS valve assembly. Install tie straps along the pre-filter hose to the fuel filler pipe and wiring harness along the frame rail. Trim an excess hose length as needed. Apply adhesive as indicated and install the hose into the rubber coupling of the CVS valve assembly. Ensure the hose is fully installed and clamp into place. Connect the vehicle chassis wiring harness electrical connector to the CVS valve. Lower the vehicle. Clear any DTCs. Parts Information Part Number Description Qty 23103351 FILTER KIT-EVAP EMIS CNSTR (W/ SEAL) 1 09438383 HOSE, FUEL-OIL EVAP 5/8" x 25' (need 3-8 feet from roll per vehicle depending on box and CVS configuration) Cut Length 12337820 TIE STRAP (need 4-6 depending on box and CVS configuration) 4-6 11609970 CLAMP
  4. jay webb

    20190914_100944.jpg

    see the round pad on the lowest leaf spring. what i do at the dealership is get 4 of those and install them on the upper springs replacing the square pads and the noise goes away. we had a meeting with some engineers and this is what they came up with to fix the popping noise from the leaf springs.
  5. typically on these trucks the spec ( you will find this in the driver side door jam) are 60psi in the front and 75 psi in the rear.
  6. lol we do mounts all the time. this is a common issue on these trucks due to the stiffer frame and body mounts.
  7. ok battery. also remove neg cable 1st and always install it last. there is a support bar that runs next to battery, it has 3 screws take it off/out. hold down below the battery towards that bar, 13 mm bolt. remove it. there is a 10 mm nut at the corner of the battery that holds the coolant tank in place , remove it. it allows you to move the coolant tank for clearance. then remove the covers on the positive side. undo the nut at the battery post, the plastic tray that has the fuseblock/wires in it can be moved it clips on to the battery. pull it up and towards the engine on the bar that is standing there that you remove the top cross bar to. remove battery. be careful not to damage the fuse block, if that breaks/shorts etc you will literally be dead in the water not able to power up the vehicle at all. typically takes me 5 mins to do a battery.
  8. i also have an 18 sierra and no i dont believe it is, you will get a noticed if you are.
  9. ok here is what i do to do them. you need to remove the air intake to the throttle body, remove the belts. heres the kicker on the ac/vacuum pump belts. they are stretch belts , meaning there is no tensor. using a ratchet and a 24mm socket on the crank bolt and a pry bar or similar tool you can remove these belts. turn the engine over with ratchet and use prybar to wedge the belt off. going back the same way but is a bit more difficult. they have to go on in a certain order, vacuum pump, ac then main belt. vacuum pump belt you can hold by hand on the pulley and turn the crank. ac belt i typically put the belt around the compressor and half around the crank and zip tie to crank to hold in place and turn the engine over to pull it on all the way. i find it easier to remove the steering shaft between the part that comes through firewall and down to steering gear. its a 15 mm on the upper part and a 11 mm pinch bolt on the lower part attaching to the gear. this provides alot of room. there is a vacuum line that runs to the pump remove it , position out of the way. there is a wiring harness there too you can gain some slack if you pull it from the clips that hold it in place. then on the pump it self is 4 13 mm bolts , remove them and the gasket. it will drain a good amount of oil. and then install new pump/gasket and finished putting everything back. i do these from underneath the truck on a lift but they can be done from the top. i typically do them in 30 mins. but ive done so many of these and have swivel sockets , electric impact drivers / cordless tools etc.
  10. the vacuum pump is located on the driver side of the engine block just above the oil pan at the front of the block, it is driven by a belt on the pulley system. then a vacuum line runs from the top of the pump to the booster. in all the pumps ive replaced and remove that line from the pump to do so i have never seen any oil escaping from there.
  11. i have yet to see the pump come apart and sending metal shavings into the oil system. i have replaced about 50 of them.
  12. you dont need to replace the serpentine belt, but it does have to be removed and the ac belt and the vacuum pump belt. under the special coverage we replace the vacuum pump belt to.
  13. its an updated pump. what internally different im not sure. i dont take them apart. i dont find them difficult to do but.... im an actual tech , i know what tools i need, what to remove , etc. i typically can do them in about 30 mins , 45ish on 4 wheel drives. a lil less clearance due to front diff/axles.
  14. these trucks dont have a pvc valve that is service able, it is designed into the block/valve covers.
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