TriZZZl3

If you're worried about valve body being ruined, why not go ahead and just replace that too? It's a pretty straight forward install and about an $800 part, but I've read that the valve body's and internal solenoid harness getting replaced solves a lot of the transmission shifting problems. You will have to have it programed by GM software after valve body swap. I'm in a similar situation, where I had metal shavings in my pan and was getting erratic and hard shifts. I've decided to install a new torque converter, filter, fluids, valve body and harness. Hoping for about 40k more miles. Expect valve body to arrive this week and will find out the outcome next week.

Looking for some input. I drive a 2016 Sierra 5.3 with 8L90 and purchased a 2018 8L90 from a 6.2. It’s installed, accepted characterization and relearn performed. Truck cranks but will not engage to gear. I’ve recently learned that the TCMs changed in 2017-2018 to the T87a. If I purchase the new TCM and have it programmed to my VIN, recharacterized and relearned, will this solve it? I’m worried about communication with ECM. I can’t find any information on this topic.

@Jessiebandz what ever came about this? I just purchased an 8L90 from a 2018 6.2L (model 8UJL) to go on a 2016 5.3L (model 6U3L). I’m starting to get worried that I’m going to be in the same situation.

what size did you end up going with? I'm contemplating 35x12.5r20 KO2. I know 35's will be tight, but KO2's seem to run a little smaller than others.

I’m aware of this. The 2.5” leveling kit is a 1.66” spacer. I do like your thought on the UCA. That could be a factor.

For context, I have a 2016 All Terrain with stamped steel UCA and a Rough Country 2” below strut level. This weekend, I removed the 2” level, added a motofab 2.5” above strut level, new Bilstein 5100 shocks (at lowest setting) and Readylift UCA. Before my suspension upgrades, my truck measured at 38.5” at front fenders. Now it measures 40.5”. How did I gain 2” when I only added 1/2” of level? I cannot figure it out. Yes, I’m sure the Bilstein was at the lowest setting. Yes, I removed the lower strut level. Will it settle? Will alignment settle it? Currently sitting nose high by 1”. I’ve already ordered 2” rear blocks. Any feedback helps.

Did you like your STT Pro’s? How many miles did you get out of them?

I've been eyeing these control arms. I hate to hear the bushings are failing this quickly. Hopefully Motofab makes it right. Are you running stock wheels? Do the tires rub the UCA?

I know the topic of tire fitment with which level kit has been beat to death. However, I’ve scoured these forums looking for anyone running the Cooper STT Pro 295/60r20. This particular tire measures 34.29x11.5. It’s a hair taller than the 275/65r20’s that most people like, but 1/2” wider, which I like. I have a 2016 All Terrain with stamped steel control arms and a 2” RC level. Currently running 275/60r20 BFG KO2’s but they look way too small. Looking for taller and as wide as I can go. It sounds like the stamped steel control arms will limit me.

I haven't decided yet, but I think I will be going with the 295/60r20 Cooper STT Pro. I like the look, the height and we need as much width as we can. The 275 wide tires are just too skinny.

Irish, are you using the 2” RC block in the rear, or just the upper and lower spacers on the front? Truck looks good.