I would assume my 20" AT wheels are the same specs as yours are. People interchange them all of the time.
I run no spacers at all. I do get a little rub on the fender liners at full lock but zip tying them back solved most of it.
The tires measure out about 33.5" on the wheels and with that height programmed the speedo is right on. I had the 295/55/20s on my '14 and they measured about 32.5" and rubbed the sway bars a little. I think the taller tires look much better.
Ride is firmer then stock but I attribute that mostly to the LT tires and not the lift.
CV angles are not extreme but I don't have any pic of them specifically.
I think I answered everything but if not just let me know.
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Negative. I'm not say I don't believe you and I agree they use a mechanical pump. I'm just wondering if there is still an electric secondary pump in place. I stood by the rear tire just now when I used the remote start and there is an electric pump sound coming from the tank area before startup. Same sound as when you open the driver door. Just curious is all.
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Ok so what pump is priming up when the drivers door is opened???
From a quick internet search looks like all of the DI motors use mechanical pumps. Is there possibly a electric booster or priming pump?
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Sig P290 9mm most of the time.
Glock 33 .357Sig if I need a little more cap and firepower.
Ruger LCP .380 if I just need a pocket pistol.
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My '17 has done the same thing several times but when it does the lines don't appear. Need to bring it in to be addressed along with several other things I have issues with. This '17 doesn't have near the build quality that my '14 had, but man I love the 6.2. Still very frustrating. [emoji51]
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I run the Pro but not that size. I have the 295/60R20s on factory wheels and 3.5" Lift. I like the tires. They are a little louder then I'd hoped but not bad for MTs.
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1. Found the pop in my front suspension.
2. Installed frame tube hole caps. (Seen another member on here post them, thanks!)
3. Removed front air dam
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