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    Sierra Foothills
  • Drives
    Stock 66 Chevy K10 SCLB, 03 GMC K2500HD CCSB SLE

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David89GMC's Achievements


Enthusiast (2/11)



  1. Did you clean the tires of all debris and check them for roundness? I often get what you describe and it's always a rock stuck in the tread, front or rear. Radial ply tires can fail with this symptom. A clunk on each revolution indicates a wheel or axle related problem. The propeller shaft turns 4 times the speed of the wheels and final drive, so you can disregard that as a source. Since this is a dually, I'd suspect the rear differential. After 16 years of towing and hauling it's not unusual for the rear end to go bad.
  2. Check out the online ALLDATA manuals. There are $15 per year deals, but the basic subscription is $20. I found it to be far better than Chiltons, and it's model-specific. So, you can get a 2006 GMC 3500 manual and see the differences before spending the big bucks for the set of paper or DVD manuals.
  3. Cleaning the connectors to the throttle body worked for me.
  4. Your truck has Hydroboost power brakes. When the power steering pump gets up to pressure the brake pedal will tend to move upward, but not "violently". My guess is dirty fluid or a partially plugged line. The steering box could also be responsible for this pedal behavior. This is a safety issue, so have a good mechanic take a look at it.
  5. The 6.0 LQ4 is a torque engine, unlike the 6.0 LQ9 which is the same engine designed for higher rpm in Cadillacs and a couple other platforms. My '03 GMC 2500HD LQ4 CCSB was used for towing vehicles with a gooseneck hitch and car trailer before I got it, and the engine is still in great shape. Although the 4L80E was burned up, so I had it rebuilt stock in case something goes wrong on the road. The 8.1 has an Allison transmission behind it and is more powerful and better for towing than the 6.0/4L80E. I looked for an 8.1/Allison for quite some time, and found a few, but they cost at least 75% more that the 6.0/4L80E. So I got what I now have for $4000 and am very happy with it. My 7500 pound travel trailer is noticeable behind my GMC but I'm not at all concerned about it with the tow mode shift points and efi changes. After all, it's not a diesel dually meant for full-time towing. I can unhitch and have a very nice 4x4 truck to play with or just drive into town. Good luck with your decision and new to you truck!
  6. If you have pushbuttons, you have an automatic transfer case. If you have a floor shifter, you have a manual transfer case. The two transfer cases are quite a bit different. There is an option with pushbutton transfer cases to shift into 4wd when in Auto mode according to the traction control option. The other poster is incorrect, he may not have the user's manual in front of him, because it shows the following diagram. You are correct about the two fluids for the manual and automatic (electronic) transfer cases. The tag on the back of the transfer case will indicate the model you have. 149 is mechanical The others are electronic (automatic)
  7. Check out Novak's website. They have all you need to know, and can provide whatever parts may be required. Surprised you didn't know about Novak
  8. No idea what you mean by "locked up", but if it's the front axle, just get another one at a junkyard and swap it.
  9. I had a similar problem. Be sure to clean the contacts on the throttle body connector and the gas pedal. Your truck is throttle by wire.
  10. Kinda rough answer, but I think you hit the nail on the head. These aren't "the old days" when you just stuff any engine/transmission in any vehicle, hook up power and it runs. There's a lot to know now. Sounds like our poster made some fundamental changes to his engine too. The exact wrong thing to do. Their are turn-key swaps from different companies. Even GM has a crate engine/ECM combination the only needs a battery hooked to it.
  11. Engine swaps used to be easy, that is: before computerized engines and transmissions. I'd suggest taking this to a hot rod shop that specializes in GM engine swaps. If you modified the engine before swapping it, sorry, but you've just added to your headaches. I'd suggest you put the engine/transmission back in the Silverado and forget the swap.
  12. Go with a "Made in USA" brand. Don't buy safety equipment from China. Some Delco and Wagner parts are made in the USA. But be careful, as in the following story. https://www.motorbiscuit.com/report-ac-delco-parts-labeled-made-in-usa-came-from-china/ So check the stamping on the part to verify. I put Delco rotors and pads on my truck and they worked great. No warmup needed, not brake fade, and wear was as expected. Nothing gimmicky, just slightly better than factory stock. PowerStops are made in China, so pass on those. Why would you want ceramic pads on a street vehicle? Also, slotted and drilled rotors are subject to cracking and intended for racing. That means they get replaced often. They aren't necessary on a street vehicle or even a tow vehicle. They're just a gimmick to increase sales. The coating on rotors wears off pretty quickly, it's really just there so you don't receive rusty rotors. https://www.acdelco.com/content/acdelco/na/us/en/index/parts/brakes.html Good luck on whatever you decide, and stay safe.
  13. Just get a book and learn something about engines. Replacing parts willy-nilly is an expensive way to go. Is there coolant in the oil, or vice-versa, and did you check the compression? Both of these can tell you if a head gasket is blown.
  14. As CamGTP mentioned, the axle probably moved. Don't weld it until you've confirmed that the axle is still straight. The cheapest fix is probably getting another axle from a junkyard, the 11.5" 14 bolts are very strong so you'll have no problems finding a good one. These trucks are very common, which is one of their strengths.
  15. I used a Powerbuilt 648475 from Amazon, but had to modify it slightly.
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