David89GMC

Yes, of course you can. The space is there and a stock filter and filter cover will fit. Just cut a hole and you're good to go. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AibrhTMmrg

Just Google the codes for the vehicle you're creating and make up a VIN. See the attachment. I doubt anyone's going to give you theirs. GMT800 VIN Decoder - blank.pdf

https://lugnut4x4.com/axles/14-bolt-axle-identification/ In '02, there were two full float axles, a 10.5 inch and 11 inch, which share the same cover. As you can see, the semi float is very different. I suppose there could be an exception, so get what you want and return it if it doesn't fit.

Search for the GMT800 2002 Body Builder's Manual CK Truck, it will give you all you need. This link may help.

This would come under the heading of "any help", because I just want to provide something for you. Did you check each wire for ground or voltage? From what I can tell, the resistance should be less than 3 ohms, not 12 ohms. Many circuits "generate" analog values which the hardware reads. Others are "digital" and provide on/off indications. My guess is these sensors are read as analog values, which changes according to resistance. A four fold change in resistance may be enough to generate an error code. Will your local auto parts store allow you to measure the resistance of a new sensor? I know these things are ridiculously expensive, but you might buy one and try it in each position to see if either code gets cleared. That "side impact" error is concerning, as it may indicate a processing module problem.

Why do you think it's the crank sensor? A broken wire will prevent communication, not lose communication after it's working. A poor connection might cause intermittent communication, so check all your connections. That China-made scanner may very well be the problem. There may be a good reason why it's a discontinued product. Get a different scanner and try again. try this link

I'd suggest you do a Google search first. Next, a subscription to AllData will provide everything you need for your truck. The engine is fine, but what make/model truck and what accessories are on that truck?

Yes, tough job. Get ARP bolts, use antiseize, and look on youtube for different methods for removing the bolts. Some use Mig welding, if you happen to have a Mig welder. Just weld a bolt, or something, onto the broken bolt and unscrew.

Haven't seen this before, but be sure to start with the grounds. Make sure they're perfect before proceeding onto the next possible cause.

Looks good to me. If your original sensors are good, I'd use them instead of the new ones, unless the new stuff are AC Delco or better. FYI: I had an oil pressure sensor go bad on my LQ4 and the replacement also went bad. Of course, they were both AC Delco. lol

Yes, it should be a GM 14 Bolt with an 11.5 ring gear. 14 bolts on the cover and the ring gear, and the pinion is on a removable support. There is a "broadcast code" on the right axle tube of a GM 14 Bolt that has specific information for your rear axle. You might look for "The 14 Bolt Bible" pdf online for further information. Pirate 4x4 has great information of several rear axles.

I'd suggest sticking with stock replacement parts from AC Delco, and use ONLY AC Delco brake fluid. You might also get Russel Speed Bleaders. Keep in mind that PowerStop products are made in China. I wouldn't go near that junk. If you need red calipers, get some GM Victory Red and spray away. Good luck with whatever you decide.

The engine has nothing to do with the airbag system, but good connections to ground and wiring harnesses affect the computer system. Clean all your grounds, check the wiring harness connectors and disconnect the battery for a couple minutes to hopefully reset the codes. Do you have any kind of electronic system manual for that truck? I'd suggest a discounted one year subscription to AllData. Look around on the web and you'll find discount coupons. Or, you could just take it to a good mechanic. Just changing out parts won't get you anywhere.

That Duramax will destroy those light duty transfer cases. Rebuild or find a used replacement for your manual transfer case. My '263' rebuild was only $500 a couple years ago. It's a push button electronic version without 'auto four wheel drive'.

If the auto hvac unit didn't come with the truck, what did? Look at your option codes in the glovebox and verify it was originally manual or auto. Keep in mind that cheap accessory units can fail very quickly, best to get a used OEM unit than a a new one made in China. And stay away from Dorman if you can. And get the exact replacement unit if you know the original number. There are many different units that will may not be compatible with the system controller. Good luck.

Search on Google. There are many videos that will take you step by step through the process.

Try replacing the switch first, it's a real failure point and only about $20. My truck had similar symptoms, so I got a new switch and that was it. Check out SWITCHDOCTOR on Amazon for the correct switch for your vehicle.

From the 2002 Builder's Manual, which should be the same up to 2007.

Find the 2000 Body Builder's Manual on this site to verify. The 2002 4x4 2500HD frame is the same as the 2002 4x4 3500 frame. The HD frame is completely different than the 2500 frame.

The three button switch is cheap. Get one and try it.

No. I'll add to CamGTP and say the transmission controller also needs to be changed. The old days of swapping stuff around are gone. It simply costs too much to swap anything these days. If you're married to the idea, check out Novak conversions. The 4L80E is stronger stock than the 4L60E, but parts are available to beef up the 4L60E.

I have an '03 GMC which I think is the same as your '06. There are power outlets in the dashboard, but that's all. None of the doors or kick panels have outlets, just lights. Did you buy your truck used? If so, someone may have started to add the outlets and never connected them. Get a one year subscription to AllData. Everything about your truck is there, for about $15.

Fast blinking used to mean a burned out bulb. With computers, everything has changed. There is no longer a direct connection between the turn signal lever and the turn lights. The turn lever just sends a signal to the computer which then activates the turn lights. An Alldata subscription for your make/model/year would be very useful in diagnosing your specific vehicle.

The four wire connector doesn't have a backup signal. Connect directly to the reverse light nearest the wires to the camera. A link to the ebay listing would be helpful for the cell phone signal.

Have you checked the compression, or done a leak down test? Sure, the engine is electronically controlled, but don't forget it's a mechanical device with a lot of time on it. What you're seeing is very possibly the computer trying to correct for low compression.