I have under seat storage In my crew. I custom made a box for a shallow 10" and amp that fits inside the storage box. You would never know it’s there unless you lift the seat, whole complete setup cost me under $400.
Don’t bother messing trying to fix it. It’s jacked up, either the head unit, HMI or both. Take it to the dealer and hope you’re under warranty. If not, make a huge scene about the broken crap that GM keeps installing. There are so many documented cases of these failing that you’re gonna get some help eventually. Trust me, just went through it..
I just bought a MaxMate low profile soft top from Amazon, $139. I went inexpensive because I've never had one before and not sure if I'm going to like it. Install was about an hour, seems really secure. Quick blast of 303 protect spray and I'm quite happy.
IMO, they don’t wanna do it. Probably a liability issue for them, if you get stuck and get pulled and something goes wrong. I have a 17, bought OEM take off’s from EBay for $39. No hardware included, I bought $30 of grade 8 hardware. Install took all of 45 minutes as I had to cut the holes in the lower bumper, wasn’t paying $170 for a piece of plastic that looks the exact same as my freshly cut piece.
Minimal gains, especially in MPG cause most of us stomp it a little harder than we should to hear growl. Research K/N filter cleaning on internet or YouTube. You can buy a cleaning kit off Amazon. It’s vital you take care of things, especially the filter keeping it clean, properly oiled and secured. This is the only thing preventing massive amounts of debris entering your throttle and ultimately your engine.
2014-2018 silverado amp subwoofer install I’m gonna do a quick write up on my install. I am by no means a pro, this is what I did and I’m sharing my experience. Supplies: Lockit posi-taps 22-20g 6pack Posi-lock Connectors 14-16g 8 pack Blaupunkt GTHS131 10" subwoofer with 200 watt amp combo 25" speaker wire Boss KIT2 8g Amp kit (be very careful, the power wire is literally 6" over for a crew cab from battery to the rear seat.) It does not have enough speaker wire to run 2 pair from the head unit to the rear seat. Zip ties My amp has hi-level inputs so I didn’t need a Low level converter I have always used the front door speakers for amp installs. They are full range while many times the rears, tweeters, etc are only given lows, mids or highs. I tap into the fuse panel rather than splicing the antenna on. Remove kick plates on both sides of the front of the truck, remove sill plates front\rear. *Turn off radio, Disconnect negative, than positive battery cables. Remove battery cap Speaker wires: pull the trim piece (very carefully) from around head unit, there are plugs on the bottom that just press and remove. remove the lower glove compartment remove head unit, 4 7mm bolts and gently pry out. remove 3 plugs holding head unit to screen -The upper large green plug is what we are working with..pull back the black tape at least 6". your gonna use the Blue\Brown-bluefor the Left speaker and Yellow\yellow-blackfor the right. I don’t believe +\- matter with an amp. Run 2 speaker wires (I had 2 different color speaker wires to run so it made remembering L\R easy) up from the glove compartment area, through the framing around the head unit and connect with posi-taps to the wiring. -Run both speaker wires under glove compartment and secure under R front kick plate. Carefully pry covers off the wiring channels and run wires,down Passengers side, gently pushing under the B pillar trim. Run under the rear plastic trim and pull wires behind rear seat to the amp. If you need to use a in-line converter this would be a good place to do it, lots of room. Power wire, remote on: Tie 8g wire near battery making sure to leave 8-10" extra run along back of engine compartment securing to wiring bundle that already exists with zip ties. Cut a hole in the nipple on top of the rubber boot to the upper right of the steering linkage. Take a wire hanger, dull the poking end. Gently start probing your way through the interior wiring. It will take time but if you keep gently pushing and moving it around you will eventually break on through to the other side behind the large plastic box in the footwell. I tape a left over speaker wire to the hanger and slowly fish it through. Then I join the 8g and speaker together, easier for me than trying to force the 8g, hanger and wad of tape through a very small hole. Secure 8g under footwell behind kick plate I used a fuse tap for remote on *fuse 30 and 32 come on with key*. Secure wire near fuse panel and in footwell. Carefully pry covers off wiring channels and run wires down drivers side, gently pushing under the B post pillar. Gently push under under the rear trim and pull up behind seats. remove 18mm nut under rear seat behind the jack tools, sand paint around the bolt and use this for the ground. Hook up your power, remote on and ground. Hook up 4 speaker wires to amp. Hook up the remote control if you want it, I didn’t I have the under seat storage from Doha and my system fit perfectly in the center. Install fuse In fuse panel, making sure wiring is secure Cut 8-10" of 8g at the battery. Install in-line fuse and grommet. I hooked into the 2nd from the front positive post on the side. There are already wires hooked up to this post. Secure the fuse, I mounted to the plastic at the back of engine compartment Connect + then - cables. Check amp and make sure it is NOT on. Turn the key to acc, the amp should now have power. Start putting your dash back together. At this point you should be able to check out your system. Put the truck back together, make sure no wires are pinched or exposed. Finally I used some JB Weld liquid around the cut in the rubber boot. Hopefully all went well and you are now the coolest dad in the Lowe’s parking lot!
There are differences in the boxes, I did a lot of research before my purchase off Amazon. The big things to watch for: 1. In the description of the storage box, it NOT working with aftermarket floor mats. 2. The mounting method. Some have a single strap that secures in the middle, some come with wires and some come with actual metal mounting hardware that bolts down. Good luck!
Installed my first system today. Went with a Blaupunkt combination 10" sub and amp. Fits perfectly under the rear crew cab seat. Wired the speakers directly to the stock head unit front L\R speakers, Used fuse 30 for remote on. Everything was a breeze except trying to get through the wiring boot. I cut a slit in the nipple on top and just spent about 10 minutes with a wire Hanger gently probing until that sucker went on through. Very happy with it, good bass inside without being a 48yo teenager shaking the cars next to me.
I’m gonna bump this for all the new guys like myself. Paint stick worked like a charm. I loosened the nut and pulled the housing a little, made it easier to wedge the stick in there. Tightened it back, can’t even see it. Definitely more responsive, it’s not a Diablo tuner fix but it’s free and made a big difference. Nice job OP..
Alright folks here’s my update. Got the truck back after 2 weeks. Mirror, radio and dent fixed. Total for me $114. I’m happy, glad to have my new truck back. I could have fought for free repairs but it just wasn’t worth it. Got her back, now I can keep modding. *America!
I honestly don’t mind paying the $125. I was offered an extended warranty and turned it down. While this, and all dealerships should offer a minimum 30 day on any used purchase, they don’t and I knew it. The service manager is in constant contact me and I feel like they want my business. There was even a small dent in the rear door when I bought it, manager saw it today and had there dent guy who only comes once a week go ahead and pull it for me, no charge. I know it’s all a game, I know if I push I might get it all for free but it’s just not worth it to me when I honestly feel like they are trying to help me. These repairs are costing me less than a pizza dinner for me, my wife and 4 hungry hippo boys.
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