Swiftks

1.5" will bring the tires out for sure. Not sure what you mean about using the stock lugs.... If you go over 3/8" wide spacer, you'll be bolting the spacer to the stock lug bolts, and then the wheels to the spacers with the stock lug nuts, as pictured above. Can't speak to other brands, sorry. I went with what others have reported as being a reputable brand, and have worked for others (BORA). They're not cheap, mine were $255 w/shipping.... But I kind figure it's one of those things you don't want to go bargain hunting for, and you get what you pay for. Just Google the brand you're looking at and look for reviews.

After thinking about it for a minute... They can't be much more than .25" outside the spacers, because 1.5" spacers will fit ALL the stock Chevy wheels without any cutting, and the ones I got are 1.25" spacers, so math suggest they aren't sticking out much more than a 1/4 inch.

Didn't measure, guess I should have... If you look at the pic, doesn't look like more than 1/2". They fit in pocket on back of TB wheels no problem though.

Bad ass isn't it.... Love the sound. Which tips did you get?

Me? I have stock TB tires/wheels 275/65-18. No rubbing anywhere. I have a 2" level kit though too.

I just got some BORA spacers on today.... They're the most popular brand on the forums for our silverados. Made n USA, top quality. If you just want hub centric spacers, you can get their 3/8" spacers, which will use the stock lugs and bolts. Otherwise, you have to go up to a 1.5" spacer, or you'll have to grind off the extra stock lug bolts sticking out. The Trail Boss wheels have pockets on the back side of the wheels that are able to fit 1.25" wide spacers, and require no trimming of the stock bolts... which is the size I got. Not sure if this size will work on other stock wheels or not... have to see if there's room on the back side of the wheel for the stock lugs protruding out to fit in. So to answer your question, with BORA spacers you can more or less go with .25" or .375" spacers with stock lugs or jump up to 1.5" (maybe 1.25" depending on wheel), without having to trim the lug bolts. Here are some pics:

Got my 1.25" BORA spacers on today. Perfect fit and pulls out the wheels just enough; more importantly moves the backside of the tire away from the upper control arms, as it was getting close after I put on the Rough Country leveling kit. FYI the 1.25" fit with no trimming as the Trail Boss wheels have pockets behind them to fit the bit of lug bolts that is sticking out.

Got my 1.25" BORA spacers on today. Perfect fit and pulls out the wheels just enough; more importantly moves the backside of the tire away from the upper control arms, as it was getting close after I put on the Rough Country leveling kit. FYI the 1.25" fit with no trimming as the Trail Boss wheels have pockets behind them to fit the bit of lug bolts that is sticking out.

On factory hubs, 1.5" is the minimum for not having to grind studs, unless you go down to .375" and under, which are strictly hub centric, and use the factory studs. 1.25" will also work on factory Trial Boss wheels, without stud grinding, because of the pockets behind the wheels. So basically you'll have to grind down the factory studs for widths > .375" or < 1.5". Unless your using factory TB wheels, which then it's < 1.25". These are all specs/info. for BORA spacers as well that I've been able to find on the forum.

No haven't got them in yet. Told me 7 - 10 day build time, and I ordered them last Friday... So probably after Christmas. 1.25" supposedly fits on stock Trail Boss 18" wheels, because of the pockets on the rear side of the wheels. Another guy on here did 1.25" on his Trail Boss, and reported they worked just fine. Here's his posts:

Anyone try replacing the map light bulbs with stronger LEDs? Are the map light bulbs even removable?

Yeah I went ahead and ordered 1.25" Bora spacers for all four hubs yesterday. Didn't want a new/wider set of tires to be any closer than they are now. Plus, if I ever add aftermarket UCA's the space will be even narrower. Saw that someone else had done 1.25" spacers, and they work on the Trail Boss stock 18" wheels, due to the pockets on the back side of the wheels for the stock lugs to go, otherwise you have to go up to 1.5", or grind the excess off under 1.25". Plus, the stock tires/wheels need to come out just a bit from the fender well... They seem kinda shoves back in there.

Why would there be to much stress on the ball joint w/ a 1.5" level kit? I have a Trail Boss and added a Rough Country level kit, and everything alinged within factory spec afterwards. Only thing after market control arms do is give you more caster angle. I'll give you they do have better ball joints than factory control arms, but that's not saying a leveling kit is damaging the factory control arms in any way.

Not sure with 20's on the Trail Boss... That's kind of a weird combo. Have to read through the thread and see what people with 20's and a 2 inch lift on a LTZ are doing... Wich would more/less be the same for you. I'm going to add 1.25" spacers to my Trail Boss w/ 18's & level kit... Should bring the stock tires out of the fender well ever so slightly, and future proof me for wider tires.

So with your new 1/2" spacer, were you able to still use the factory studs and lugs? I thought 3/8" thick was as thick as you could go on factory... you add something else? Looking at ordering the 3/8" BORA spacers this month, and just trying to get everything figured out. Thanks for your help.

Sounds good. What part of the country are you in? I'm in Houston and supposedly Houston House of Power did the first full custom tune on one this past week. Anyway, unfortunately a ECM swap is typically the only way a tune can be performed on these vehicles now days. I wouldn't do it myself, definitely take it into a shop to have them do it, and then tune it. More info. can be found in this thread about tuning as well:

Not trying to sound like a ass, but your "guy" needs to keep up to date for his customers. HP Tuners released their tune a couple weeks ago. First ones to crack the ECM. Only thing is, you have to do a ECM swap, and then buy the credits and software, and have a custom tune done... Say around $3K. Also, warranty is definitely going buh bye with this...

Aaahhh that makes more sense... Well that's stupid they don't offer their dual exhaust with different tips, since it's their best one. I do love the carbon fiber tips, that's the one I got. I'd call them tomorrow and ask to speak to someone in their technical department, and see if adding the tips you like would be possible to the dual exhaust.

Is there any real performance difference with the regular Borla single in/dual out over stock exhaust; i.e. GM's "performance exhaust"? If there are gains to be had with a bolt on exhaust (no long tube headers), besides a nice growl and your butt dyno, then it's even more true for a true dual exhaust.

Just got my Trail Boss about 2 weeks ago. Added the Rough Country 1.5" level kit; truck sits with 3/8" of rake now, which is damn near perfect to the eye. The problem I'm having is, after the level kit was installed and alignment completed, the stock DuraTracs are getting damn close to the upper control arms/ball joints. I don't really want to have to buy new wheels, as I like the black factory wheels, and am not to crazy about adding wheel spacers either.... but as you can see a 12.5" wide tire is really going to be hard pressed to fit, and not rub the stock UCAs. Would changing out the UCAs to something like a Camburg or Total Chaos fix this issue, and allow for more space between the joint area and inner side wall? Was thinking about upgrading to the Camburg Kinetik Series (https://camburg.com/shop/suspension/camburg-chevygmc-1500-2wd4wd-2019-kinetik-series-billet-upper-arms/). Haven't really seen anyone on the forum yet upgrade their UCA's, and I never have on a previous truck, so not sure if it will help with this specific problem or not. Thanks for your input and help. The pictures below are from my LT Trail Boss, stock tires and wheels, w/ 1.5" Rough Country TB level kit. Edit: Called Camburg and Icon, both said the same thing. Their control arms would actually decrease the amount of space... only options are new wheels with different offset or spacers.

Yeah, what he said. ?

Changed "break-in" oil at 1,500 miles to Amsoil Signature, and added a Fumoto valve while I was at it.

yeah, what he said ^^^^^^^. Best to have a performance shop just do everything for you, take out your ECM, send it to HP Tuners, install you new ECM, and then they will do a custom tune on your vehicle... and yeah your looking north of $3K. The days of the old hand held Superchips and such are over.

Never mind, I think this is it: https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-instrument-panel-wiring-harness-84497098/?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsJnM9ZnVzZS1hbmQtcmVsYXkmaT1HSDE5MjIyNSZyPTEmYT1nbWMmbz1zaWVycmEtMTUwMCZ5PTIwMTkmdD1hdDQmZT01LTNsLXY4LWdhcw%3D%3D How do you know if this is needed or not though. I would assume it is, if you're trying to reto-fit the aux switch bank into a vehicle it wasn't originally intended for. Thoughts?

Yeah, that link is on the first post of this thread. Do you happen to know the part # for the "electrical center/harness combination" provided in the picture above? That's the one part I can't seem to track down right now.