mandrewbot3k

Easier said than done… it requires a 10mm socket and god knows where those ran off to…lol. But, Yeah… I’ve read all the posts going back years and was thankful when I had my 2019 1500 with the fixed rear window. Made the naive assumption that GM fixed the issue three model years later. i plan on doing the seal from the TSB, but have also seen many say that it will continue to form cracks and continue to leak. Maybe the SEM product will work better than the early TSB fixes in the 2019-2020 1500s.

Will this be a drop-in replacement or the 2027 too much of an overhaul?

24-NA-103 covers 2022-2024 for the same 'fix'. Oddly it seems 2021 was skipped, so they may not have shipped a lot of trucks with the rear slider due to covid?

My '22 LT just started leaking in June, 1 month out of warranty.... Definitely cracked window frame as documented. I plan to do the TSB seal myself, but to avoid future issues, I'm wondering if anyone has anyone tried adding some kind of plastic drip edge to direct the water over the glass edge rather than pool up behind? It won't prevent the cracking, but would ideally reduce the amount of water pooling up. Alternatively, thinking just adding a few more layers of seam sealer so the level is above the edge of the glass. Also curious if anyone has considered setting an aluminum rod or bar into the seam sealer in hopes that it would make the plastic frame more rigid and prevent future cracks from forming. Luckily the leak is pretty minor right now, but it's annoying none-the-less considering the electronics on the back of the cab and the potential for mold in the headliner and carpet.

This looks it? https://www.ebay.com/itm/324717180318?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bYhLSJVyR1e&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=HCXIvBYkSXu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I have the same issue that started at about 7500 miles on my '22. I plan to take it in this month along with some other issues (steering clunk again, with TSB in hand this time) and my sensor recall. When I first got the truck the brakes felt unsafe and my leg was cramping when I was at a traffic signal or in a drive thru. I read somewhere you should put it in park, depress the brake all the way, then release it. I do this twice and the brakes feel much more responsive afterward without my shin cramping up. I do it occasionally if I feel like it needs it.

Lol. Jokes on me… my rear storage is covered by car seats for my 3 young daughters. Maybe one day I can use it.

The attached image is from the removal instructions for a T1 1500 so I imagine it’s the same. It’s from Katzkin. https://katzkinvrs.com/_manage_/res/marketing/Technical Bulletin - 2019 Chevy Silverado Rear Seat Removal.pdf

My 2022 HD LT has black cloth with the rear storage and fold down console. It’s part of PCM: 1LT/1SP/2LT Convenience Package 2 but actual RPO I believe is the R7O: Rear Seat: Folding with Storage Package

I got the same letter and have been paying for the full onstar package since I bought back in may. my take is that it’s gonna be a while and is not a priority for them. They also gave me 12500 Chevy points which is about $125, which leads me to believe I’ll never be getting it. im more disappointed about not having the front and back parking sensors because I’m fairly certain it’s a very easy fix for them given I have the button inside already and the sensors are in.

This is an interesting setup. All the bedview I've seen has been through the specific bedview camera and into the head unit, but this requires a video processing unit. I'm wondering if with chip shortages, they've switched to this setup. It looks really similar to the way the Rear View Camera Mirror works. As far as I know, that setup is a new taillight assembly with the rear view camera (different then bed view), and that camera needs a Fakra extension cable which then plugs to the mirror itself, and the mirror gets power from a harness in the headliner. There are some good posts in the non-HD T1 forums on this. It appears it would be wired this way. I believe there are three taillight assemblies. One is Rear view, one is bed view, and one has dual cameras. This is an example of that setup and they have some videos showing the install procedure.... 2019-2022 Silverado or Sierra Factory OEM Backup Rear Camera LCD Mirro - Infotainment.com

I paid msrp and got $500 manufacturer cash but I only had to wait 8 days since no one had claimed it yet and I got more tradein on my 19 1500 than I paid new so I was okay with it. for what it’s worth if you can wait, my local ford dealer told me I could order a f250 tremor and “depending on the options, would be 5-7k off msrp” I didn’t wanna risk my trade in losing too much value so I went with the Chevy 2500 gasser.

Henry, I just responded to your DM, but I'll write out some of it here too so others can see. I fixed the flicker, but it's not because of the relay, it's because of a low pass filter (RC Circuit) that smooths the power signal. It creates a slight delay turning on and off, but it does smooth it out. I get a slight flicker still, but it's hardly noticeable. For my application, the relay is there to switch from RUN power to Battery power during the door open event, because RUN power isn't active yet, but if you have it on just battery power without some kind of trigger+relay, you'll drain the battery since they'll just be on all the time. If it's just for the running boards, you should be able to safely go from BCM pin 23 + protection diode => RC filter -> SPST Relay , so long as you're actually powering with a fused line. If you try with just a relay, you'll have the same issues still, but it'll be noisey because the coils don't like the pwm signal. It has to be smoothed.

Yeah I get the same thing since I’ve had my 22 chevy 2500. IOS infotainment. It’s very annoying I don’t have wireless charging so I plug in my phone anyway, I may just try to disable wireless CarPlay and see if it connects. So far best I could do is set up an automation that turns wifi off and then on again when CarPlay connects. It usually then forces a connect with the truck wifi. At least more consistently than not having it. But I need to play with that more.

@sheath, damn, that 7.3 powerband is impressive. That was going to be what I ordered if the local chevy dealer didn't have the L8T coming in so quickly. @nards444I have a 2022 L8T, and I only have a couple gripes about it. But towing isn't one of them. It FEELS sluggish, but it's really not that bad. If you try to gas it while it's towing, it scoffs at you, and basically says, "I'll get there, gimme a minute, geez....". Going from a 1500 to a 2500, it just feels like I'm going slower than I am. When I'm cruising at 65 towing, it felt like I was going 40. Not a bad thing. The exhaust is pretty quiet on the L8T too, so I think thats part of the perception. My 5.3L seemed throatier and was noisier in the cab. I'd say if you're only towing ~10x / year and worried about tow mileage , I think the fuel cost difference would be fairly negligible, especially relative to the extra $10k for the diesel. Definitely factor in that added cost when doing the fuel cost savings. If you only plan on having the truck for a few years and trading in, it may not be worth it to go duramax. If you plan on keeping for the long run, might pay itself off. That said, I just towed combined weight of 16520, with 7240 on my trailer axle for 3 hours. I got about 8mpg, but it tows so nicely, especially compared to my 2019 5.3 1500 i just traded in. I don't have hill descent help, but i never really had to tap the brakes coming down grade, which was about 6-10%. It just held at 55mph and didnt struggle or anything. I was able to get from 55-70 pretty easily to pass semis when needed, but I think those are the instance when I wouldve really felt the difference with the diesel. Ultimately for me, I decided on the L8T over the duramax because 1) availability, 8 days from deposit to delivery and 2) my normal commute (getting about 11mpg) is pretty stop and go. I felt that would be bad on the diesel being in regen like 98% of the drive time, especially for an extra $10k. IU only tow my travel trailer about 10x year, so didn't seem worth it to me. If you currently have a diesel, you might miss it. The other factor might be based on your driving routes. My full 36gal tank is only getting me about 400 miles tops probably on the highway, though I haven't done much of that driving. If you're running a long ways through barren land, it might be worth it to have the extra mileage of the diesel. But I really like the L8T.