mandrewbot3k

Thanks all. I figure it's ok since the truck isn't complaining to me at all, but I'm just more aware of it now that I'm towing at 70-80% capacity. I've been watching more diligently, but then noticed the heat the truck is giving off when I park it too, even under normal load seems hot. Just don't recall it doing that much before. It's only been high 70s here lately, but I'll just keep my eye on it.

Under normal driving I’ve noticed my engine running about 210, seems hot when walking by it after driving. It seems to just get this temp and stay there most the time. Just did a 100mi each way tow pulling about 8000lbs and same thing. Sitting at 210. Trans was running around 180 most the time hitting 190+ on the grade. I feel like the engine is running too hot but can’t find any specs for this. Should I take it in or is it something I should just mention at my next oil change. I have the 5.3L (L84) with the 8 speed. Got an oil change at the dealer about a month ago. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not a great pic of my Evo T2700. Just under 7100uvw. Running a husky centerline WDH. Pulls great other than the porpising from the soft rear end as mentioned above. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just did 200mi round trip to the pacific coast (half moon bay) from the Central Valley. Pulled my 7100uvw pretty well sans the porposing. Need to add something (sumo spring bags/airbags/helper spring) to help contain that.

I’m on mobile right now but gmupfitter should have what you’re looking for for identifying. https://gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1290/20_Sierra_1500_Electrical_Body_Builder_2019JUN20.pdf If I’m understanding the situation correctly, the WT doesn’t have the full x1 plug up top. Based on the schematic I pulled up the DD8 wiring is probably whats available. DRZ being the rear cam. There is no red identified so that plug may be for something different under there. Possibly a rooftop beacon for the WT? If the full x1 is up there you should be able to tap into those pretty easily. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just wanted to follow up that the DPDT relay with a 100uF capacitor worked much better. There is less of a delay when switching from door assist mode to regular operation. Works well when applying the dome light manually too. It's a great upgrade.

Nice. Love the setup. Do you have the icon at 3.5"?

Confirmed, the button on the overhead, right side turns all of them on and enables the door assist mode, with no dimming so it's a nice quick switch. Thanks! I tried uploading a video of the PWM dimming issue, but cant figure out how to get a video on here. haha.

You know I didn't try those other buttons, I was thinking they were just cutoffs, I'll have to give them a shot. Thanks for letting me know. The only reason I'd like it is so I can have a 100% brightness white light for Door Assist, and a subtle cool blue light for normal driving.

After noodling with two SPDT relays, which does, I'll be changing to a DPDT to better control the swap between Door Assist and regular operation. Here is the circuit I'll be using: One bummer about using this is that the BCM output for interior lights does not provide a signal when the dome lights are manually turned on, only with the door. Not a big deal. Basically, the Electrolytic capacitor is there to keep the relay coil happy. You'll get a lot of chattering/buzzing from the PWM signal otherwise, which is just premature wear (and also a bit terrifying). You can probably use a bigger cap, but the 220uF is working fine with the SPDT I have in there now (except for door signal). There's a diode in there to protect the BCM from the capacitor discharge. This is the circuit I currently am using, but it's a little overcomplicated when the DPDT package should function better with the isolated Door Assist output. As I mentioned, this bottom one still has issues with the Door Assist signal. A larger cap (1000uF) may work, but I opted to isolate the signal instead using the DPDT relay which is on it's way. An RC circuit may be necessary to smooth out the PWM signal with it, rather than just a bigger capacitor, but the thing was starting to become a pain to manage with tall the jumpers and connectors. if you do try this, make sure you do not hook up the capacitors backwards as they will blow out the top if you short them out.

Did you end up doing this? Did you get bump stop extensions? I think it would be: Front: Adjustable B8 5100: SKU 24-293297 Rear: 24-309516 For trail boss 0-1" Rear block (2-3"): Rough Country 2" Universal Block SKU6592 + u-bolts Anyone have any experience towing between stock and these? I've got a 7100lb (uvw) travel trailer on order and wondering if it these will be better or worse under load.

Not exactly a mod, but I found the craftsman versastak/dewalt tstak drawers for $35 fit well under the rear seat and are accessible without raising the rear seat. And it works well to take in and out as well. The bottom drawer drags just a hair on the rubber mat. Wouldnt need much to raise it up if it bothered you enough. My bosch 12v flexiclick sits snug on top of it as well. Sorry for dark photos.

There are two cameras. A rear vision cam. And a bed/cargo cam. The latter is part of the infotainment system. The former is the one in discussion here. He asked about the cargo camera, which wont work with the rear mirror.

I noticed on the parts guide, part 1 (2019-2021 GM Spoiler Assembly 84515395 | GMPartsDirect.com) with the whole spoiler and camera/light assembly is showing at only $129. Am I missing something here? Part 84487008 light w/cam) is $178 plus you'd need the harness. It appears this subassembly has everything except the coax extension. It's still a little more than ebay for the assembly, and I dont need the spoiler, but seems odd the whole assembly is cheaper than the individuals no? Am I missing something here? lol.

Much harder. From my understanding, only available if you already have the IOS at minimum with a video processor, then you'd need reprogramming by a 3rd party like MVI. Or use an aftermarket solution.