Can anyone tell me why, on my 2016 Suburban LT, the daytime running lights are the headlights and not the white LED strip? Pretty much every other K2 Suburban or Tahoe I see, the DRL's are the white LED strip but on mine, they come on as the headlights. And yes, I do have the LED strip - it comes on when I turn the headlights or parking lights on. So it's there. Can I switch it over to the LED's or disable the DRL's altogether?
I do have the Range AFM unit installed. I didn't want to tune this thing I just wanted to enjoy the goodness of OEM for a change. But the trans sucks, even with AFM off. I know it's a large vehicle - all the more reason for the trans to give us a little more in each gear!
Yeah I did a little Google searching on it and found that it's pretty common. The "flare" feels so much like a slip to me (I guess I'm old school) that it was worrisome. Especially when combined with the slightly slow engagement of drive and reverse from park. Is there a transmission-only tune I can buy that will improve shifting?
It's definitely not related to hill start assist. Fluid was dark red but not what I would consider brown or burnt. The Chevy dealer has informed me that they recommend sticking to the "severe" maintenance schedule with these 6L80's in this year truck. In response to my complaint they checked for transmission trouble codes and found none, but they said that they could "sort of" feel what I was talking about - but as far as they're concerned if there's no codes, there's "nothing really wrong with it". They did a pan drop and filter change anyway and said that the minor issue I described seems to have been resolved. They also said there were no shavings or metal pieces in the pan when they dropped it. I am picking the truck up later today and we shall see.
Guys, I've owned this truck since Jan 30th of this year. It has 66,500 miles on it. To the best of my knowledge the transmission has never been touched/flushed or messed with. That was on my list to do this spring. I've noticed over the last week or so that the truck has what I've heard described as a "flare" (feels like a slip to me) when shifting 3-4 under moderate pedal. It shifts 3-4, then the RPM's slide up 500 or so where it hangs, then it glides back into 4th gear. Any other car I've driven, I'd call that a slipping tranny but this is my first newer GM. I've also noticed a delay in engagement when shifting from park to drive or reverse that occurs when hot or cold. Not sure if the two are related. The truck is back at my dealer's now to be looked at, but I was curious what the opinions would be. I only have about a week left of my bumper to bumper used car warranty, so I'm afraid I might get the old "we couldn't replicate the problem" until a week is up.
The way I understand it, a 2020 model is just as likely to have the issue as a 2015, 16, 17, etc. The issue is in the particular way the roof is attached to the vehicle on the assembly line, which hasn't changed at all since the first truck on this platform was built. As suggested, you'd probably notice it right off the bat on a test drive - but I'd say it's certainly possible for the issue to "develop" as the truck ages. General consensus is that these trucks either have it, or they don't. Luck of the draw. If you have it, you'll probably never get rid of it even with the current GM fix. I count myself lucky as my 2016 Suburban does not have the issue at all and I'm at 65,000 miles. By the way, LOVE Murrell's Inlet!
I for one would like to know how you got GM to replace a transmission on a vehicle that was out of warranty. Quite a trick you pulled there. I'll be saving this post for when mine goes out.
I bought my truck already out of warranty so I can't speak to that, but most people just unplug the disabler if the truck has to go into the dealer. It leaves no trace. As far as I know there is no "special coverage" (aka warranty extension) to cover bad AFM lifters. If there was I'd imagine GM would be losing money hand over fist. Get the disabler, keep the oil changed every 5000 miles and hope for the best - that's what I'm doing.
Was it a bad lifter or a bad fuel injector? Either way, you aren't the first person who AFM has discouraged. You can buy one of these to plug into the OBD2 port and it will disable the AFM. Many, MANY people (myself included) have purchased one and are reporting great results. https://www.rangetechnology.com/products/afm_disabler/ What those do is electronically disable the AFM from activating, ever. Which keeps the AFM lifters from doing what they do, which prevents them from failing, generally. It's one way to skin the cat of AFM disabling and has worked for many people. If it was a bad injector, well, it happens. Known issue, especially as these trucks begin to age. I just had two replaced. Nothing to do with AFM, they just go bad. Fortunately, replacement isn't too bad of a chore and if you have more fail, you shouldn't be on the hook for much money. The 6.2 isn't any better than the 5.3, they all have the same issues and the 6.2 comes with the 8-speed transmission which is generally regarded as more problematic than the 6-speed that you currently have.
What type of flush do you recommend for a truck at 50-70,000 miles? Some have said that a pan drop and filter change is enough. A buddy of mine recommended a flush and refill with BG products.
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Just in case anyone starts having this issue... https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10163854-9999.pdf There's your golden ticket. Just had mine done last week. I was sure it was an AFM lifter failure, turns out it was #3 and #5 injectors gone bad. Keeping the notice for when the others go out...
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