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Jonofmac

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About Jonofmac

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  1. It did. Came gloss black. Ready to install. Can't upload photos with Tapatalk unless you pay Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  2. It's sitting in in garage waiting for me to get motivated to work in the heat. Truck doesn't fit in my garage so I'm waiting for a cooler day haha. It's been surprisingly hot in DFW. I'm glad I have a mini split AC unit in my garage. It's the only reason I can work on the Vette haha. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  3. I bought it. It's sitting by my garage waiting to be installed. Looks to be a quality piece. Shipping was quick I just wanted to give the chrome around the windows a good cleaning. That one I was debating doing soon because it was so easy but getting the Vette ready for COTA is #1 priority for me right now Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  4. Honestly I haven't touched it. Between the triple digits heat and the fact I'm trying to get my Vette ready for a track event, I've not had time or motivation to touch the truck. I started trying to undo the lower piece and can't get my hands to anything so I took a break and haven't been back to it. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  5. Question, I can't find an answer to this online. When towing and wanting to view the trailer pressures/temps, is your only option to click through the head unit? Can you view it on your cluster under one of the pages? Does it show temp and pressure on the cluster, if yes? Anyone know if you can set an alarm pressure or if there's some sort of alert system if you get a low pressure tire? I'm trying to decide to go with the OEM tire pressure system, or save about $20 and go with a tire minder setup, which is a dedicated device and doesn't require remounting the tire to install the sensors. It has an alarm system, and could be moved between vehicles if I loan my trailer.
  6. If you're knocking on 91 octane, you've got other issues going on. Bring it in. I experience 0 knock with 87
  7. Haven't yet had a chance to get back out there and try it. I have the AT4 piece. I'm still really wanting to find a way to get at it WITHOUT removing the entire bumper, just because I'm 1 person and don't think I can do it by myself (risk of dropping it and trying to align it). I got most of the bolts out of it from the bottom, but there are 4 bolts on the sides that were extremely difficult to get to. I think I can do it with some swivels and an extension of appropriate length. I was out of town last weekend and couldn't work on it, but this weekend I think I'm going to give it another go. It's going to get done one way or another, just trying for the least stuff removed method first (which might be the most difficult, ha)
  8. I'm ignoring this yondu guy lol. He's just a prick that likes to argue. I suggest you do the same Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  9. Lol yeah. When it's a large portion of your career, hard not to be. Misinformation is frustrating and helps no one. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  10. Fair. I think the biggest difference you notice between the two is the 10 speed. Muuuuch shorter 1st gear ratio, really allows these things to move out from a dig pretty well. I'm coming from a 4 speed 4L80 in my cammed, head swapped, and stalled LQ4 in a 2003 2500HD lol. This 6.2 walks it from a dig (when it hooks, or if I use 4wd to launch). From a roll, I still think the 6.2 is faster The 2500 was a heavy girl, i got it across the scales and it weighed 6340 lbs and was making ~500 HP (crank, no idea what wheel was) over the stock 300 HP it made. I think my favorite thing about the 6.2 over the 5.3 when I was driving both was the torque at low RPMs. It would just effortlessly accelerate while maintaining low RPMs. Again, I'm coming from a stalled truck (3200 rpm stall), so when I was accelerating at all, i'd be at 4k rpm minimum. Perhaps it's a matter of perspective for me haha
  11. Sorry I haven't been able to work on this much recently, weather has not been cooperating. I finally got around to making the DIY video on how to remove the front grill.
  12. Since there is no DIY for this, I decided to take a few video clips as I was figuring it out during my Denali grill to a glossy black piece swap to make a DIY. Excuse the stuttering, I hadn't eaten all day and had tried several different things. I recorded after I had figured out how to remove everything. It's honestly not that bad, but you'll want 2 people when removing the fog lights and reinstalling that piece because if you're not careful, they'll fall out and scratch your lower bumper! Steps: 1) Pop hood and remove the hood release handle (2x T15 screws). Once screws are removed, handle slides towards front of vehicle and off. 2) Remove 10 plastic push clips along the perimeter of the big plastic cover. Lift straight up when done and plastic piece comes out. 3) For both fender wells, you need to remove the 2x torx screws just on the inside of the fender. 4) With your hand on the front-most bottom part of the fender flare, pull straight out to the side to release the clips. There is a 7 mm screw under the fender flare you need to gain access to. I ended up removing the entire fender flare and then removing the push clips individually, reinstalling them into the fender flair, and then install the fender flair as one piece on re-assembly. 5) Once the 2 torx screws and 1 7mm screw under the fender flare are removed, pull straight out to the side at the corner where the quarter panel meets the front lower bumper/fog light area. It *should* just pop out with some force. One of my sides gave me trouble and I had to use a plastic pick (to avoid damaging paint) to push on the pin to release it once I got it out enough. You then pull along the headlights. The piece in the middle of the fog lights will pop right out if you pull towards the front of the vehicle, or use a plastic pry tool. You MUST undo the fog light connectors from the fog light housing and remove the harness clips from the housing as well. I believe there is only a connector to disconnect on the passenger side but a harness holder/clip and the connector on the driver side. 6) To release the clips connecting this bumper plastic piece to the grill, you'll have to crawl under the truck and pull back the soft plastic cover that you'll see. You can stick a hand in there and release the locking tabs while having a helper support the plastic bumper piece and work together to remove it. The entire piece will come out this way. Note there are 3 plastic clips that hold the plastic in the bumper that will come out with a little force. 7) Remove the 3 (10 mm) bolts on the bottom of the grill that are now exposed. There are 4 (10 mm) bolts on the top of the grill that need to be removed as well. 8 ) You can either release the 3 locking metal clips (left, center and right sides) that hold the bumper in place now or later. I didn't notice a big difference. If you do it now, give a firm and quick jolt towards the front of the vehicle and you'll hear the clip release. Don't pull too far or you could break clips. 9) Grabbing the top of the grill, lift up (not too much force) while pulling towards the front of the vehicle. You have to lift the bumper a little bit before it'll come forward. 10) If you have a camera, undo the 2 (T25) screws holding the camera onto teh grill and then the bumper should be free. Installation is the reverse of removal. Best of luck!
  13. Your statement would be true except for one major thing: Transmission gearing. The 5.3 winds gears out a bit more for the same acceleration of the 6.2 since the 6.2 makes more torque. The power to the wheels is the same to accelerate both vehicles, but the power produced at the engine will not necessarily be the same. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  14. I'll admit I gun mine at a lot at lights. Maybe not full wot but enough to get it to shift around 4k rpm. It's just how I drive drive I've been accustomed to more power than necessary. I give the truck more gas since I'm used to the ease of acceleration that a 650 HP vette gives you, so I end up pushing the truck more to keep up with leisure acceleration in my Vette lol Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  15. Nice. So you're now resorting to personal insults instead of showing any data. I provided a snippet of how a piezoelectric knock sensor works because you were confused. I corrected your claims, buddy lol. My ego suffers no bruises from your unsubstantiated claims or personal insults. I actually am an electrical engineer with both hardware and software experience for embedded devices and frequently work with several large OEMs (I do more than just automotive). To correct you trying to put words in my mouth, I never said it will anticipate knock before it can happen. I'm saying knock is not a binary yes there is knock/no there is not knock entity. I'm saying that you can measure the relative combustion volume/knock level and see if you're on the threshold before you get to full blown pinging. No, you won't exactly how far from knocking you are, just that you're at seeing higher combustion pressure rises. You act like the only vibrations that occur in an engine are knock. You clearly lack the understanding of what knock is and what is causing this vibration. I explained it once but I guess it didn't stick... To try to dumb it down more: as fuel gets ignited, pressure in cylinder rises quickly and this force pushes down on piston. This pressure profile varies greatly depending on when the fuel mixture is ignited (amongst other things). Too late, make reduced torque. Too early, peak pressure occurs as piston still going up (also results in negative work/reduced torque). These vibrations from combustion are ALWAYS PRESENT, but to varying levels depending on when ignition occurs and charge density. Yes, I completely agree that knock sensors cannot see the future. I never claimed they could. They must measure things that already happened. What you repeatedly fail to comprehend is that these vibrations that they see exist in every combustion cycle, regardless of whether knock is happening or not. The relative magnitude of these vibrations are what change as rapid cylinder pressures increase. ECUs sample this analog current/voltage. Misfire detection wouldn't be possible if they saw 0 vibrations except when knock occured. Don't believe me? Go hop on HPT or EFI live and change your knock sensor sensitivity to make it sensitive. You'll get "knock" reported under light throttle. The reverse is true too Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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