I tow roughly the same kind of trailer as you. Between 2000-4000 lbs (depending on what I have in it), 8 ft tall, flat front, and 5 ft wide. I also see the front bending in at speed acting like a nice air brake. I had a 2015 and a 2018 CC std bed with 5.3/6speed combo. It would pull it no problem in the city, but at 70+ it would stay in 5th cruising, but to pass it would definitely go to 3rd and 4th. Uphill would need to downshift at times, but still better than 3500 rpm always. Now I have a 3.0 diesel CC std bed. Pulling that same trailer + 1000lbs in the bed, the only time I notice the trailer is when it bounces around at 75+. With the 5.3, I got 11-13mpg towing it, barely got 15 @ 60 when I tried to see the best I could get. With the 3.0, I get 20-21 at 70-80mph, 18-19 city if I get on it at lights, and 23-25 if I’m cruising in traffic at 60-65. I totally get how you are feeling about the downshifting. The truck should have more than plenty of power for a trailer that light, but the truck struggles at times and works annoying hard pulling it. The diesel does not feel this way. If possible, try to get an extended test drive where they let you take it home, and try the trailer out.
I saw this in another post. Thought it may be helpful. Oil Pump Cold Start Rrrrp or Rasp The oil pump design has changed from a gerotor gear type pump to a two-stage vane type pump for fuel economy reasons. At temperatures at or below 0°C (32°F), or when the engine has been sitting for a few hours, it is possible to have air enter the pump through normal oil drain back. Upon startup, the owner may hear a short “Rrrrp” or “Rasp” coming from the front of the engine. It is most often heard during a remote start. There is nothing wrong with the oil pump or oil system. No repairs should be attempted for this condition.
Do you use your parking brake? I ask because you mentioned it mainly happens after it’s sitting or in the mornings. Either way, it sounds like rear brakes or parking brake is sticking or not backing off properly. If it backs up just a hair, the brake dust in between can create squeaking noises. If the brakes are sticking more than that, the noise usually happens after driving a bit.
Moving to Texas? Take the 3.0 out on the interstate and check out the acceleration 70-100. The acceleration 0-30 in the 3.0 is about the same as 70-100. It just does not bog down. Then do the same in the raptor. See how many more downshifts, noise, and effort the raptor takes to accelerate or maintain those speeds. Take note of the lack of acceleration unless it downshifts. Also, I can get on it a lot more with the diesel and be way more low key to my girlfriend next to me without her telling me to slow down
‘Can full of marbles’ sounds are usually caused by either exhaust leak, heat shield rattle (temperature can affect this), or more likely something inside the catalytic converters is loose. Could also be the exhaust flap being loose in its mounts I suppose. Kind of off topic now, but removing the exhaust isolator for the duramax exhaust only made it rattle and more noisy, plus I could feel the exhaust swinging side to side with it removed. The problem is they got the exhaust for it from Pep Boys on clearance lol. Ray Charles could have put down better looking welds. I’m surprised they even hold together. They definitely wouldn’t hold even 50psi.
Payload on my 2020 3.0 Duramax RST CC STD Bed is 1808lbs and 920 max tongue weight. GM did say they were increasing towing capacity (maybe payload as well) for the 3.0 for 2021 so they may have some with even better numbers. If you are looking for more stability and control in your truck for towing, go for a 2500 to get a noticeable difference. With a 1500, it will just have more power than your current 1500. I would avoid the 8 speed as many have had problems with them and the 10 speed has only had great reviews. Going with a 6.2 or 3.0 you will definitely notice more power for towing and hills will be a lot easier than your current setup.
One dealer near me charged me $92 for 7 quarts + filter (first change). I knew this dealer is a crook but didn’t have time to look around. Another dealer gives me a discount (I just walk in, no account or anything, maybe because I have to give them the part number every time) and only charges me $42 for 7 quarts + filter. However, lately the availability on the PF66 oil filter has been pretty scarce. I checked 5 dealers, Oreillys, advance, and autozone and only 1 GMC dealer had 3 filters so I got them all.
Any good sealant should pretty much fix the leak for the life of the truck as long as it’s applied properly. RDI HVAC silicone sealant I use for work holds up on outdoor and rooftop units sealing different material types together for 15-20+ years being exposed to sunlight and all elements. $5 a tube, -60f to 400f service temp, 25% joint movement. 95% of contractors cannot lay a decent bead of caulk. I do not think this average is much different than dealer service techs. I agree the fix not holding is most likely tech error.
What is the payload rating on the door for the people having issues with sag? I’ve seen ranges from 1000-1900 which all still technically allow for 930lbs on the hitch, but I’m sure would handle the hitch weight differently based on the payload.
Does anyone else think that 350 mile range under ideal conditions is pretty low for a truck considering that any off-roading or pulling of trailers will easily cut the range in half or more? A 175 mile range while towing isn’t great at all, and no matter what features your truck has, 2 hour run time is severely lacking.
I would check the oil pan gasket and the connections to the oil cooler lines. A lot of the v8 Silverado/Sierras have had issues with disconnecting cooler lines. My 3.0 has a leaky oil pan gasket, not enough drip or lose any noticeable amount of oil, but the gasket definitely lets out enough oil to get wet.
Purchased 5/3/20. Crew cab standard bed RST shadow gray metallic, 1808 lb payload. Currently at ~16,500 miles. Average mpg at 65 is 30-34, at 75-80 is 27-29. Mixed Highway/city with 1000+lbs in bed is 23-25. No recalls, ~6,000 miles per 5 gal def. One check engine light that went away by the time I got home, no saved codes I could see. Remote start was still working with check engine light on. Oil changes @ 1,000mi, 4,000mi, 9,000mi, & 14,000mi. Fuel filter changed @ 15,000 miles. Slight exhaust rattle at idle & when coming to a stop, fixed with strap on exhaust isolators (annoyed the piss out of me but no time to leave at dealer for a couple weeks - work truck).
Sqrls replied to Skididdy's topic in 6.6L Duramax Diesel & Allison Powertrain (L5P/MGM)On the 3.0 diesels in the 1500, there are no mufflers, no resonators, or any sound control devices past the DPF which is right next to the trans. Past the DPF is a flex connector, followed by a particulate matter sensor (can’t modify exhaust until after this sensor), and then straight pipe out. The DPF is pretty much all the sound deadening modern diesels require.
My regen interval is nearly exactly like yours. I always have at least 1000lbs of weight in the truck so my mpg is a little lower, but that’s about right. With normal use, about 2 regens a tank. When towing, my mpg goes down obviously but still about 2 regens a tank (I do not tow long distance). The only time it really changes and it surprised me was on long highway trips, about 3 regens a tank. I do have lots of city driving mixed in with my average use but I also don’t worry about mpg and don’t baby the throttle. Somehow, I’ve never had a tank average under 20mpg though compared to my 2018 5.3 getting 11-15mpg.
Surprisingly, I’ve seen older carbed small block chevys run with 1-2 plug wires disconnected just fine (relative term) firing just off of compression. However, in general, engines do not like to idle and it’s the hardest engine speed to maintain properly. Most engines will never reach an ideal Air:Fuel ratio at idle. Adding cylinder deactivation only adds variables and greatly increases the chance of misfires, check engine lights, and customer dissatisfaction in order to save fuel in one of only 2 engine states where fuel economy has no standards or requirements. It would hurt warm up time (which burns extra fuel) as well as cabin warm up time which does have specific requirements.
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