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Everything posted by Sqrls

  1. 2020 Silverado 4x4 RST NON max tow with duramax crew cab standard bed my payload is 1808 lbs. max tow weight is 9200lbs. Max tow package could probably see 2000+ lbs payload.
  2. Definitely agree heat affects it more than fuel useage. Towing just creates more of both, but I use less towing at night in cooler temps than midsummer days. For example, I used barely any def towing 5000 lbs with 1000lbs in bed for 800 miles to Florida in cool temps. Same trip in the heat unloaded used way more def.
  3. As far as weird intermittent issues, I’ve noticed if we have strong windy storms overnight, the next day I may have a random reboot of the software or random electrical glitches that clear up. I’m guessing at an angle water can get into some electronics, but I’ve never had it after washing it or normal rain. With the temperature gauge, it seems like it will overheat a touch to help the oil or engine heat evenly. It’s not a true overheat because anytime I get annoyed with it, if I hit the gas the temp gauges literally plummets back to normal. If it was actually not keeping up with cooling, the opposite should happen so it’s not something to worry about and that’s a good way to get myself not to worry about it lol. Towards max load with a trailer on 90 degree or warmer days if I’m spiritedly accelerating through traffic, I do notice the gauge slightly on the high side of the the middle notch, and responsiveness of the engine seems throttled back compared to the start of the trip with the same load.
  4. 6.2 or not, the zr2 is less capable as a truck than a Nissan nv200 which has higher payload. 1400 lb payload is ridiculously low.
  5. 3.73 gears in diesel is awesome. Upgraded cooling and drivetrain is great (at 46,000 miles I have drivetrain play but it’s used for work and I work it). Also, on a 95degree day when you’re really working it, it currently detected power some, so the upgraded cooling is needed. I’m really into the upgraded cluster. I kind of dig the new high country look. will probably be upgrading to the new 2022. Edit: Also, definitely like the new bright blue!
  6. 2020 Silverado rst, 3-4 inches lower than stock (from weight) and I get flashed all the time. From behind my light hits little shitboxes right in the side mirrors as well. unloaded at exactly stock height I get flashed even more. my 2018 also got flashed. as did my 2015. most drivers in my state (Virginia) should not have a license.
  7. I wonder if the cooler lines for the trans have the same issue in Silverado’s as they do on the tahoes with the duramax. But I haven’t heard or seen anyone mention any kind of issues with the 10 speed until this.
  8. He was in auto 4wd if you watch the video towing 7,000 lbs uphill at moderate speeds. If he had been in 4 high, 2 high or 4 low I bet he would have been fine. The gravel while towing would be engaging 4wd on and off (with clutches which creates heat). At 35mph the torque converter was probably not locked which with the on and off of the autotrac would generate excessive heat from clutch slippage as well. Maybe even just locking it into 3rd or 4th would have helped with the heat. Either way, 4wd generates more load and heat to the transmission than 2wd.
  9. Based on this, I’d say 6.2 and 3.0 diesel as installed with accessories are roughly the same weight. The 5.3 is obviously lighter.
  10. GM and other manufacturers don’t list differential fluid changes, transmission fluid changes, antifreeze changes, and ball joint greasing (removed the grease nipples even) because not doing these services will usually not result in any part failures for the original owner. However, if they list the maintenance as recommended, it increases the cost of ownership for the vehicle. For instance, coolant changes where the first coolant change is recommended at 100,000-150,000 miles (after first owner probably doesn’t own it anymore), and then every 30,000-60,000 miles from then on. So just because it’s not listed as recommended maintenance doesn’t mean there’s no benefit to doing the maintenance. You just probably won’t have an outright failure if you don’t.
  11. Yes. I believe the 6.2 is about 150lbs heavier, but that is probably not the correct number. I do know for a fact that the 6.2 and 3.0 Diesel engined trucks sit lower in the front due to the extra weight.
  12. I believe the starter on this generation of trucks isn’t a traditional toothed starter that spins the flywheel, but rather spins the drive belt in the front to start the engine. The belt on these trucks also does not have a tensioner. So if the starter has a clutch like an ac compressor to engage the drive belt, that would create a chirping noise if the clutch material made contact or had a piece of debris in there. Would also explain the sound happening during slowdown or downshifting.
  13. That just means it’s at least 2 bad wheels or tires. Front you feel in steering wheel, rear you’ll feel in the seat and console.
  14. Most likely a regen, however, if you have a leaky injector or bad compression in a cylinder, that could cause smoking as well as the mpg loss.
  15. The blue def normal works good. So does the shell rotella DEF. The blue def platinum gave me poor def quality errors then service emissions system. Running it low and shell rotella got rid of the errors. Never had any def or emissions errors with anything except the blue def platinum. Take that how you will.
  16. 2.5 gallons of DEF averages me around 3500-4500 miles. My first tank of DEF was used in 6400 miles, but my def use has slightly gone down. I have 35,000 miles on it already. I normally always have at least 1,000 lbs in the bed with mixed city/hwy driving and pull a trailer pretty often. Normally, I just add 2.5 gallons when it gives me 500 mile warning and it lasts 3500-4500 miles. 2.5 gallons from empty takes me 1-2 bars from full even though it’s only half a tank.
  17. It will do it. The dirt is NOT 1800 lbs. it will be wet and definitely weigh more. That said, a yard a of dirt is technically an exact measurement, but realistically, it’s 2 scoops from the loader. It will probably just barely fit with the cover. The truck will handle it, just drive carefully to your destination.
  18. In the exhaust you will see 1 sensor that looks like an o2 sensor near the flex joint. There is a TSB on it actually being loose. There is a second sensor that is not visible, but is located on top of the DPF under the body. You can feel it by hand or looking in the gap from the rear of the truck. This sensor was the one that was loose on my truck. The nut itself was still tight. The weld that holds the sensor to the nut was broken, but the design of the sensor keeps it from shooting out due to pressure. Since I couldn’t get easy access to it, I just put copper RTV in place of the weld then after it cured, patched it with high temp JB weld. No more codes, and it has held tight for 10,000 miles including an 800 mile road trip each way. Having the dealer replace the sensor is probably the best bet, but dealers around here want to charge for warranty diagnosis, act like they’ve never heard of a loaner vehicle (only $75/day rentals), and want to keep the truck for weeks to replace a sensor. JB weld was cheaper, easier, and probably more durable than a defectively manufactured sensor. Dealer can deal with the future issues when I trade it in. The check engine light is probably not from the sensor actually being bad, but from the sensor not providing a consistent reading from wobbling around. The truck uses these 2 sensors and the flow differential between them to determine when a regen is a needed.
  19. A 4x2 regular cab WT with a 3.0 diesel would be pretty fun and get pretty good gas mileage I’d wager.
  20. Loose oxygen sensor I bet. Either loose in its casing, or loose in threads. At startup, the exhaust shakes it a bit. Once the truck is running, the flow keeps it pinned. Could also be the cat weld broken loose internally. Maybe try hitting the exhaust in different spots, but with a rubber mallet. just a guess.
  21. I live about an hour from the outer banks and have gone there many times. For corolla beach, your truck would probably be fine without even airing down, unless you’re hitting the huge puddles on purpose, but then airing down wouldn’t help anyways. It will go through the sand a little easier aired down. With decent tires like the duratracs, 2wd would probably even suffice except for the really soft spots. That beach is usually well traveled and packed down. Contractors pull trailers through that sand and the linemen power trucks make it through the dunes no problem. The sand in the neighborhood areas is usually softer and more sketchy, but I’ve never had an issue with a stock Silverado with A/T tires. I would remove your lower front bumper air dam though. Otherwise the sand might rip it off. Also keep an eye on transmission temps. The only people I’ve seen get stuck there are idiots who drive into the ocean, and people in CR-Vs and Corollas with bald tires. The ATV pits are also really fun. Some are only big enough for ATVs, but quite a few can fit a Silverado.
  22. Thank you. I will try to do this. I tried being nice with the dealerships. There’s a reason every 2 years when I get a new truck, it’s never locally for an extra $5,000+. The dealerships within a 150 mile range are all shady as hell. The clamps I have to quiet it down are completely removable. I do not buy new trucks so that I have to walk or pay out of my pocket for a rental, especially when I can’t even actually make an appointment for it to be looked at. The appointment is to drop it off, they’ll look at it when they get around to it (according to them, they probably won’t look at it same day). I have never had this crap with any Dodge, VW, Jeep, or Land Rover dealers. With any of those brands, they are not worried about telling me that I’m not covered under warranty before seeing the vehicle and have no problem providing a loaner while they diagnose and fix whatever issue. Hopefully calling GM will yield better results even though it’s ridiculous to begin with.
  23. The clamp is pretty much the only part of the exhaust under the truck that’s NOT leaking ?. I’ve figured out where the problem is so currently that’s not my issue. My problem is getting it repaired under warranty without having to pay to repair my 6 month old truck. I can weld on an exhaust pipe for cheaper than the dealer wants just to look at it. I would rather spend $108 towards filing a federal lawsuit against GM so they can pay their lawyers more than pay for a dealer to just look at it... One dealership literally told me, “ the bumper to bumper warranty doesn’t cover everything so I will also need to pay for the repairs (without looking at it). Dealing with Chevy service is probably why I will never buy a Chevy again regardless of how much I like this truck. I just want to figure out a way to get it fixed under warranty without having to pay for their parts that failed. I thought that was the point of the warranty.
  24. I have a 2020 Silverado Crew Cab with the 3.0 diesel purchased May 2, 2020. I currently have 20,800 miles on the truck. Since about 12,000 miles I’ve had an exhaust rattle that sounds like heat shield rattle, but has been getting progressively worse (intermittent DEF errors as well). Initially the rattle was intermittent and I could not see any contact with the heat shields, so I put copper RTV along the suspect looking welds on the DPF/SCR and exhaust clamp thinking it was an exhaust leak (it is, you can see where the exhaust leaks blew out the RTV). This did not help the sound and it was getting worse over time. So I put straps around the exhaust isolators to tighten them up. This helped for about a week or two, so I removed them. It has now gotten so loud, it sounds like the exhaust is about to fall off from a mile away. When I get under the truck, if I grab the Exhaust flex connector with my hand, the sound instantly goes away. So I put two Mishimoto clamps around the flex connector (one constant tension clamp). This pretty much got rid of the noise except for occasionally. If I remove them, everyone hears me in a mile radius. I would be fine with just keeping these clamps on, but in my state of Virginia, this means my new $56,000 truck will not pass safety inspection. The obvious solution would be to make a service appointment for an obvious warranty issue. However, three different dealers in my area have told me I need to pay a $108 diagnostic fee before they even look at it, that it won’t be covered under warranty, that diagnosis will take 12-48 hours, and that while some hacks are ‘diagnosing’ my truck, they do not provide loaners, but I can rent a car from them for $28/day. So pretty much I have a brand new $56,000 truck that I cannot legally drive in my state and would have to pay to fix. Has anyone had any similar experiences or know my best course of action to get my truck repaired? Should I file a complaint with the EPA to maybe get their attention?
  25. +1 on abs sensor or wheel speed sensor. The K2s actually had a recall for faulty wheel speed sensors. The brake wear sensor is actually a dummy light not based on actual pad material left and calculates (guesses) life left from what I’ve read.
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