James Eberhart

The saga is finally over. Long story short... GM Exec Referral told me they would give me $5000 towards a new truck. I told them that was unacceptable. I was able to contact a GM VP who agreed to give me $15,000 towards my new truck. I also found a dealer willing to sell me a new truck just under sticker. I traded this one in, GM paid 15 and I paid 15 and I am now a proud owner of a 3.0L Duramax 2022 refresh. Let's hope this one works better!

If anyone is curious. It rubs a little toward full lock. But totally driveable.

Long story short...GM is helping me buy a new truck due to issues on my current truck. My current truck is a 2020 RST with a 3.5" lift and Fuel Vandals 20x9 +1, with Toyo AT2 305/55/20s. I don't want to lose the tires and wheels when I trade in, but this means I need to put the tires and wheels on a stock 2022 RST for about 2 weeks until I can get the lift kit installed. My question is, will I be able to turn without significant rubbing? Looking at the wheel wells it looks like there is enough room, but these AT2 are pretty wide. Like I said, I can baby the thing for 2 weeks as long as I can still drive safely home. Maybe take off the mud flaps temporarily? Any thoughts? Thank you.

Turbo failed again...back in the shop...again...trying to get GM to make me a deal on a new truck. Easier said than done. I'm done. Period.

UPDATE... No word from GM on confirmation of the root cause. Now I have new issues. In July, I started having issues with the radio not turning on when the truck is remote started. Here is my thread on that: Dealer checked the battery and charging system, said both were fine, but then decided a new battery was the root cause. $300 later, I'm down the road with a new battery. Truck worked fine until this weekend. Same issue again, truck was dead this morning. Checked the battery and charging system again...checked fine...they are going to do an overnight draw test. So I ask a salesman to quote me my truck plus $****** dollars gets me a new truck. They want $40,000 PLUS my truck to get me into a new truck. I said no thanks. I then ask for a trade in cuz I might just dump the thing and drive my 8 year old Chrysler Minivan instead. The dealer says they are NOT interested in buying my truck due to the issues I've had with it...unless I make a deal for a new truck. You can't make this stuff up. How stuck am I? I'm open for ideas.

This is an electrical issue. Dealer put a new battery in the truck and it was fine for about 2 months. Did the same thing AGAIN this weekend. Battery and charging system check fine. Leaving it on a drain test overnight to see what the issue is. Also, if you have issues with your tailgate opening (like you need multiple presses to get it to release) I suggest you have your battery checked. I had both of these electrical gremlins just before the truck died.

Only started doing this yesterday. No idea about the update. Will check this morning and see if the issue is still there. Just checked. Radio still not coming on when remote starts. Checked for updates - nothing.

All, Searched to see if this has been discussed, but didn't find anything. Remote start works fine. Get in, push button, radio head unit doesn't fire up (but the rear cam works if you put it in R). Turn off truck. Start from inside the truck, head unit loads up properly and everything works. Any thoughts?

"vane positioning arm" is the apparent root cause

Update. I get the truck back today. 14.5 weeks in the shop since Thanksgiving... Turbo replaced (again). ECM replaced (again). No definitive root cause given yet, but GM's prevailing theory is a "bent rod" in the turbo...manufacturing defect. Honestly, I'm not buying it. You would think if it were a mfg defect it would show up immediately, not after 7,000 miles. I also have a hard time believing two turbos failed in the exact same way on my particular truck. Seems like the chances of that happening are almost non-existent. However, like I said before, I'm going to let them run their process and see what happens. Both the turbo and the ECM have been returned to Detroit for root cause confirmation. Demon, thanks for the tip on the harness issue. Both the dealer tech and the GM Engineer claim they checked for that on my truck and it is NOT an issue. Demon, perhaps you can comment on what "rod" is in the turbo? Is that the rod that controls the intake opening? @DemonWorks GM is extending my ENTIRE powertrain warranty to 150k miles, and they threw in a 36,000 mile maintenance agreement for my troubles. The truck has about 90,000 miles on it now. Since both turbo failures happened at roughly 7,000 miles, I assume if I get to 150K miles then I hopefully will be good to go long-term. We shall see. Isn't the oil pump belt needed at 120,000 miles? Looks like maybe I can skip the cost of that big service... I know some of you will say "trade that sucker in before it breaks again!" I hear ya, but that's complicated. I'd not only be adding a truck payment, but losing the lift kit / tires / wheels (without some major hassles). Since I like the truck, and this truck is exactly what I want, I'll have to think on this hard. My honest expectation is I will have the failure again in 5-10k miles. GM understands at that point, I'm done and they claim if it happens again, they will work out a deal with me for a new truck. No idea on details yet. Thoughts?

Turbo has been replaced and they are "putting miles on it". Which is a polite way to say everyone is driving it except me! ECM is also going to be replaced again. At some point after that replacement, I get the truck back while GM figures out the root cause. Still no definitive root cause that I have been told. I told GM today my expectations are that if the truck is fixed, they shall extend the warranty again, and give me an agreement that if this happens again, they own the truck. No response to that yet. We shall see. Today makes the beginning of week 14....

The option to get me out of the truck is on the table, but they are going to see if they can fix it first. Lemon Law does not apply in my state ( I think ) as it has been owned more than 1 year. Getting a new truck is VERY messy as I have a lift kit / tires / wheels / bed cover / safe / storage - and all would need to be moved to the new truck. I have not been making payments as the truck is paid for. This is now week 13... I can't just go all ballistic as I do have the inside source who is very much trying to help...and if they can't find the root cause, she will be the first one to advocate for a new truck (and making me whole). I need to let the process run...as frustrating as it is.

I need help and information if any of you have had repeated issues with your turbo on the 3.0L diesel. But before I begin... Some of you may remember I am the guy who got a new motor at 75k miles dues to an oil squirter falling out of the block and hitting the crankshaft. Here is that thread: The engine failed Thanksgiving weekend 2021. In Feb 2022, I got another reduced engine power code: "turbo position not learned" or something like that. This was exactly 7000 miles after the motor was replaced. The dealer replaced the turbo and sent me on my way. (GM extended my warranty by 40k miles) Fast forward to May of 2022, another 7000 miles, guess what? Yes. Another turbo error. Same one. "turbo position not learned". They are replacing the turbo (again!) but aren't ruling out other issues, i.e. ECM or "software glitch". There is a GM engineer working on the truck now at my dealer. I have an inside source at GM advocating for me (she is AWESOME!), and I can promise you my situation has gotten visibility to the executive level at GM. Today makes 12 weeks my truck has been in the shop since Thanksgiving. As of today, GM has no idea what the root cause is, and I don't expect my truck back anytime soon... I was simply curious if any of you have heard about this or experienced something similar? Any tips or suggestions? What worked and what didn't? My dealer's Service Manager is genuinely trying to help, and if I can get her any information, it would be helpful. I don't believe for one minute there just happened to be two bad turbos...both on my truck...both failing at exactly 7000 miles.

Didn't get any more warranty. The new motor is only under warranty until the 100k clock runs out.

Sorry about the double post. I don't know how to delete the other one...maybe Mods can help? I was getting the CEL on and off for months. My dealer told me it never even through a code. I thought that was strange. I wonder if that squirter was bad from the start and maybe causing temporary dips in oil pressure causing the CEL? No idea.