jsm10

Thanks! I appreciate the help. Yeah, it's my son's truck and it has the leak on the top right side of the condenser at the weld which is pretty common from what I have read.

Does anyone happen to know how much PAG 46 oil to add when replacing the condenser in this truck? Thanks in advance.

Thanks. Yes, I am going to go ahead and do that. I am the sole driver of the truck, so I can keep a watch on it to make sure there is no odd behavior that shows up. The rack performs flawlessly other than that that issue I saw with the wheels off the ground.

I put a remanufactured NAPA steering rack on my 2007 Silverado classic. I first turned the wheel back and forth 20 times with the truck on jackstands with the engine off topping off the fluid. I then started it and did that again. If I turned the wheel too quickly the rack went into violent back and forth oscillation. It does not do this with the truck in the ground and drives fine. I did not accidentally reverse the hoses and torqued everything properly. I am thinking the remanufactured rack has a valve problem. I am now wondering if I should have it aligned or not (knowing I may end up replacing the rack again). I am also wondering about the safety of this. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Hey Kyle. Thanks! I need to replace my inner tie rods and this was the last thing I was trying trying to research. Thanks again for the help.

Does anyone have the torque specs for the GMT800 series with rack and pinion steering? Specifically: - Inner Tie Rod to steering rack - Stop nut on inner/outer tie rod tow adjustment - Outer tie rod to knuckle Thanks in advance!

Thanks. Going to try the "Torque" app and see if that will do it.

I am hoping someone can help me. I got a P0446 (vent valve circuit) on my 2007 Silverado classic (GMT800). Replaced the vent valve solenoid because I thought it was sticking when testing with a 12V battery charger. Tested the purge valve - OK. Gas cap gasket looks good. Took the vent valve hose off and blew pressure into it. Held thumb over it for 60s. Air whooshed back out. So, I think it could be the fuel tank pressure sensor. Is there a tool I can buy to read the live data on the sensor voltage? I read that an ELM327 WIFI OBD2 adapter and the iOBD2 app will, but not sure. Any recommendations on a scan/diag tool or an OBD2 reader with app to do this? Thanks in advance.

Does anyone have an app recommendation that will read fuel evap system pressure for a 2007 Silverado Classic 1500? I read that the ELM327/Wifi and iOBD2 (app) will do it. Just wanted to see if anyone could confirm or recommend another combination for this. Just basically want to read live data on the fuel tank pressure sensor. Thanks in advnace.

Thanks for the reply! That’s great information.

All, So my 2007 Silverado had a check engine light. P0446/Evap vent circuit. I have done the following: 1.) Tested vent valve solenoid 25 cycles with a 12V battery charger. Functioned correctly. 2.) Tested purge valve solenoid 25 cycles. Functioned correctly. 3.) Removed hose to vent valve. Blew into it. Held thumb over it for 60s. Air whooshed back out. 4.) Gas cap gasket looks good. I put a little silicon oring grease around it just in case. I replaced the vent valve solenoid thinking it might be failing intermittently. Still getting the P0446. The system does not seem to have any leak, unless it is very minor (or I would have thought the pressure I blew into it would have bled off). I am guessing it must be the pressure sensor on top of the gas tank. I don't have a scanner to read real time values on that, though. I read that the WIFI ELM 327 OBD (about $20 on Amazon) will work with a phone with app iOBD2 and provide that real time pressure value (but not sure). Any thoughts? Buy the ELM or just put a new pressure sensor on it and see if that fixes it? It seems I can feel it over the LHS frame rail and I think it just pulls out. Thanks in advance!

All, I have a 2007 Silverado classic 1500 with 90K miles. It has a whine/groan in the power steering pump that is worse at cold temp. Steering is fine. The fluid is a little dark, but doesn’t look that bad. I was considering flushing and replacing with a synthetic. Just wondering if that will quiet it down or am I looking at a new pump? Thanks in advance!

Thanks! I will just plan to ignore them, then.

I have a quick question I am hoping someone can help me with. When I just put new shocks on the 2007 Silverado Classic 1500 2WD I just bought I noticed that there was some sort of partial covering on the coil spring at the bottom. What I am talking about can be seen in this photo: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12367169&cc=1433489&jsn=940 Only about 1/4 of this thing is left on both sides and what is left is brittle/cracking and falling apart. I am also soon going to replace my inner/outer tie rods and will need to get the truck aligned. Am I OK to just break the rest of this out and just leave it that way or does this need to be fixed? I really don't want to have to pull the coil springs if these things aren't really necessary. I didn't want to leave the broken piece in there and get it aligned, because I was afraid it might slightly affect the camber. Then, the rest of it falls out and I end up wasting an alignment. I am guessing these are to cut down on metal-on-metal noise as the spring moves, but I am not sure. Thanks in advance for any advise anyone can provide.

Thanks for the replies. Does a 2WD have inner tie rod ends? I searched some videos online and everything I saw is 4WD trucks. Thanks in advance.

I recently bought a 2007 Silverado 1500 classic. I noticed when putting some shocks on it that it has some slop in the front wheels. The passenger side is minimal (maybe 1/8"), but the driver's side is worse (maybe 1/4"). It is only horizonal slack (move wheel side to side). There is no vertical slack. So, I think the bearings/hubs are OK. The slack goes all the way back the rack and pinion (I can see the shafts back to the rack and pinion boots move). There is no slack in the outer tie rod joint with the steering knuckle. The truck also has a slight whine when turning the wheel that is worse at cold temperatures. I guess I am going to need to replace the rack and pinion assembly (for the slack) and the power steering pump, right? Or, am I off track here? Thanks in advance for any advise anyone can provide.

Thanks! Going to give the rotors a shot and see what happens.

All, I am hoping someone can help me with some advise. My wife's 2011 Tahoe had a couple of issues. The first is a noticeable vibration when braking at 40mph and above. The other problem was a typical brake grabbing when you have a warped disk brake rotor. I changed both back rotors and the issue with the brake grabbing went away. The grabbing was what I consider typical warped rotor behavior. You could feel it at nearly all speeds with varying frequency with the vehicle speed. However, I am somewhat puzzled by the vibration during braking that only occurs at about 40mph+ that is still remaining. Absolutely no issues at lower speeds. I was thinking maybe it could be the front rotors, but I would think a warped rotor would cause problems at all speeds. Before I threw money at a set of front rotors, I figured I would try to get some input from other folks. Is there anything else that could cause this (cupped tires, slop in a ball joint, etc.) or is a set of front rotors probably the best place to start? Thanks in advance!