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NorCal2020

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  1. Coming from a Fully built Long Travel Tacoma (I know I know, its a smaller truck, but still), you're not gonna get trophy truck performance off of anything bolt on. I've eyeballed the 'Long Travel' kits from Dirt King and Baja Kits a few times, but building any long travel truck is a money pit and a headache lol. Thanks for posting pics btw, I've have the BDS 4" kit in my cart for about a year now debating on getting it. If you're still stock in the rear, that's definitely your problem running trails. Stock shocks aren't going to perform anywhere close to bolt on Foxes, and as someone else said, putting some weight in the bed helps. I was looking into trying to mix and match the Camburg performance leafs with whatever lift it balances out to match the BDS 4" lift block, plus adding some sort of storage situation in the rear to add weight for a better ride. Another thing to think about- TUNING. I don't know what stock tune the Foxes come with from BDS, but I'd be willing to bet they aren't tuned perfectly for offroad usage, (usually a medium between street ride and offroad usage), so its going to ride semi well on road and offroad, but you can't have both. My Tacoma felt amazing at about 60MPH+ across trails/dunes/Whups, but rode like absolute garbage under that speed on road or dirt. And that was with about $15k per axle. Anyhoo, I would say go with the Fox rears, look into a performance leaf pack and lose the block....or the smallest block you can find combined with the best leaf pack, AND throw some weight in the back. (Funny story- my first Tacoma I had I put some big ass 4" lift springs in the rear and drove around with an XXXL Home depot storage container filled with big ass rocks and sand, probably about 200-300lbs just to settle the leaves a bit, rode like a dream with that box in there lol). Even my LT truck always rode smoother when I put about 200lbs in the bed. Feel free to msg me and we can talk shock tuning and such. I'm not expert on the matter, but it took quite a while to get triple bypasses tuned up to the point where I was able to hit 80MPH across a mile long whup section at the beach.
  2. Yeah, you replied 'no doubt you can order longer Fox shocks' after I'd said If I couldn't get them from BDS I would order them elsewhere, I thought you were just agreeing with being able to find them elsewhere. Anyhoo, yeah I'm not putting spacers on my truck if I can help it haha. I'm pretty leery about blocks, but we'll see what deaver says.
  3. Over towards the right you can choose which kit you get. Click on 4" RR CO. Those are Fox Coilovers with preloaded springs for 4" of lift. No spacers.
  4. https://bds-suspension.com/product?kid=748H Yes....you can.
  5. Depends on the kit you buy. I'll be calling them to confirm, but I've been told you can get extended shocks. And if they don't? I will be confirmed the collapsed and extended length and ordering my own from a trusted source. I don't do spacers if I don't have to.
  6. Also, to the guy who said Coilovers aren't that great. Well, if you live where it snows, I agree. Salted roads are bad for vehicles in general. Myself, I live on the west coast, and I just traded in a Tacoma with full Baja race suspension, so I beg to differ on coilover performance on road and off road lol. Yes they do ride a bit rougher depending on how they are tuned. Most people that buy off the shelf coilovers don't tune them at all and usually complain of the ride being harsher. If you know a tuner or know how to tune the shocks, you can easily have an amazing ride both on road and offroad. While yes, you can't quite have stellar performance on both, there is a happy middle ground. My on road ride did suffer due to tuning my shocks for jumping the truck and blasting through the desert at about 60+ MPH, I didn't feel like the on road was terrible. Mostly just slow speed stuff. I fully plan on the Fox shocks with adjusters. I had the first iteration of those on my Tacoma back in the day, with just 8 clicks. I would put them at about 3 when I was just driving around in the truck, but as soon as I hit the dirt I popped them up to like 8 for better compression, and they rode beautifully. With these new DSC things, IIRC they have both low speed and high speed adjustment, Or maybe it was just compression and rebound. Either way, extra adjustment is always great.
  7. The difference is, you get what you pay for when it comes to suspension. Most lifts that aren't purely suspension tend to add lift by adjusting the geometry of the front suspension components. However, most kits are primarily spacers of some sort, and while they do provide lift, they also tend to cause other issues down the road. Accelerated wear on other component that have now had their geometry changed due to the spacer. Plus, from personal experience, spacer lifts tend to ride a bit harsher than stock suspension due to the fact that they are usually compressing the shock, or moving the location of the shock, thereby moving the shock to another part of the suspension travel, which usually causes the ride to suffer. From what I've seen on the BDS kit, (as its my first time looking in to Drop Bracket lifts), it basically maintains the stock geometry by lowering the LCA mount points (in basic terms) and extending everything else along with it. So the stock geometry effectively stays the same, UCA/LCA angles, CV/Steering shaft angles, all stay the same. A longer shock gets put in to accommodate the increased distance from shock mount to LCA (unless you cheaped out and when for the coil spacer ;( ) and I believe I saw a differential spacer in there along with the front drift shaft spacer. I watched a couple of their install videos and looked up a bunch of reviews, seems like a solid kit to provide legit lift without having to worry about it causing some other part to fail. I'm leaning more towards the Camburg AAL now and just putting a 3" or 4" block in the rear since I believe the AAL was supposed to add something like 1" or so of lift. Waiting on some more funds to come in hopefully soon, might be parking the truck for a bit while it gets a lift and maybe some boost
  8. Awesome, thank you guys for the replies! I'm slightly leaning towards the 6". I'm thinking on hitting up camburg for the AAL they have, as I'm worried that the full pack they offer is geared more towards offroading and will be a little to flexy for towing, IE kill my load weight in the rear. Then just mix and match some blocks to see what I need to be level. Will have to find one that has the rear up just a hair to account for the leaf pack settling. Or just calling deaver and telling them exactly what I want. Should probably just do that haha. Pretty much every leaf pack I've run on my Tacoma from stock to full blown Long travel (and everything in between) was either straight from Deaver, or someone that re-branded after ordering from Deaver haha. They really are the experts when it comes to leafs.
  9. I may be coming in to a bit of cash soon, was planning on a BDS lift and a whipple. Whipple is down in Stockton, was gonna see if they do installs, if so, was just gonna drop the truck off and throw cash at them to do it all right and return to me a boosted truck :D. That way I don't have to deal with waiting for this part or that part, just give it back when its done haha
  10. Hey guys, So I've been eyeballing the BDS kits for my 2020 LTZ 6.2. I kinda of want to go for the 6" kits, but heres my question. Whats the difference between the 4" kit and 6" kit, other than the larger block in the rear. Do they just use different front springs/shocks or crank up the preload on the 4" kit to achieve more lift, or is it actually larger shocks with a minimum amount of preload. Coming from a Long traveled Tacoma, I know my way around shocks and preload, and I would prefer to avoid that. I also plan on getting the Full Fox setup with the adjustable resi's, Either Cognito UCAs or just buy the full package from BDS with UCA's and the rear stabilizer bar things. I had full race King's on my Tacoma, and THAT was a harsh ride, but these stock shocks on the Chevy are just so bouncy and marshmallow feeling. I was ALSO looking at Camburgs leaf spring set up for the Silverado, looks like a full leaf pack will give something like 1-2" of lift, so I'd have to play around with blocks to match a front 4" or 6" kit....but at that 1k price tag from Camburg, I might just call Deaver at that point and see what they can do. Thanks
  11. Ugh I hate that! When I pick up my boys from daycare they love popping the sunroof and back window open (OMG DAD CAN I HIT THE BUTTON PLEASE), and then cruising through the neighborhood to go home at 25mph that helicopter sound is so annoying! I usually blip the throttle just a hair every time I hear it just to make it pop some cylinders back into rotation lol. Even though it immediately starts back up again. Other than that, loving the sound of the thing. I left the side vent open since its been in the 50s or so on my drive to work, so I'm not super worried about pulling hot air from the engine. When summer hits I'll probably pop it back in. Another question, So i went with the white dry filter....is it cleanable? Or should I go buy like 7 of those filters off S&B while I still can to stock up lol. I've never been a fan of oiled filters, have had a few, always followed instructions to a T when cleaning and re-oiling. I wanna say I had an AFE intake or maybe a Toyota intake on my Tacoma that I pulled off on my next oil change after installing the intake and the entire intake tube had a light coating of oil and dirt/dust on it....and that was from a NIB intake and pre-oiled filter straight from the manufacturer. All I could think was that just the stuff that got caught on the tube, how much of that was baked into the engine at this point.
  12. So I started to but then saw that there was wire loom attached to it and I'm notorious for snapping those things, so I figured they made it look super easy to pop that box off, I must just be pulling at the wrong angle. And I was...hahah
  13. Thanks! Hahah Yeah I was thinking the same thing initially- "Did they send me a 5.3L coupler? is there a size difference?". I totally agree, I was super impressed with how it looked. Everything went together easily enough, but also seems sealed well and put together excellently. Yeah I tried ordering several different intakes through multiple companies and every single one refunded and said they can't ship to CA (all the ones that didn't have that listed at the sale). I actually ordered the GM performance intake, and after about 3 weeks the sales manager emailed me and said something about them recalling all the intakes over a sticker mistake or something. I ended up just hitting up a buddy in Nevada and had S&B ship to him and just paid him for the shipping to myself. Pretty sure almost everything S&B has is CARB legal so they'll probably have this intake certified in the next few years, just gotta try to get a CARB sticker from them then
  14. Just installed mine today. Had to have a buddy ship it to me to get it in California, hoping they get CARB Approval in the next 5 years ?. Hardest part for me was getting the intake throttle body box thing off. They showed just rotating it up and popping it off but it didnt wanna do that for me. Spent a good 20 minutes trying not to break anything before I must have found the right angle and gave it a love tab to get it to pop off. Also took a bit to get the coupler on to the throttle body. Thought for a second I might have got the wrong one, had to play with it and twist it around for a good 10ish minutes before I finally got it to pop on. I had the S&B install video queued up on my computer and just paused and unpaused at each step. Prob took me about an hour and some change just going slow and taking my time. Let me tell you what, worth it 100%. Combined with the Borla ATAK I threw on, you can totally hear that 6.2L roar now! I noticed the pedal vibration as well as others have mentioned, but as also mentioned, it was just from the extra noise vibration of the better intake, doesn't bug me in the least. Smiles for Miles.
  15. I tried lifting mine up in the driveway on the passenger side but I didn't trust getting under the truck. (maybe I was doing something wrong but with parking brake engaged, threw it in 4WD) Initially forgot to throw the tire chocks in and it rolled forward a few inches before I slammed the jack back down, then I put wheel chocks in and I just didn't quite trust it to not roll with me underneath. So even then, I tried to wiggle in and get the exhaust out but I knew it was gonna be a ******. I started using my sawzall to get it out, but it had an older used blade in it and it snapped about halfway through, busted out the angle grinder with a cutting wheel and got it the rest of the way out. Honestly hardest part was getting the rubber hangars off everything lol.
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