Brandonb0013

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/248499-30-duramax-cranks-but-won’t-start/page/31/

For what it's worth, I've had this happen now twice in the last three weeks. The last time I had to get it towed, the first time it eventually started after an hour or so. Regardless, the dealership first said it was the alternator (they replaced), that didn't fix it. Then two days after this the Service 4WD popped up, I brought it back in, they found a loose ground cable (G132). Tightened and it fixed it. Fast forward to a week ago and wouldnt start, same issue as described in the original post as well as the first time it wouldn't start. This time at a different service center they found the same G132 cable had a "broken bracket" on the engine side of the cable. There is a techlink article here that was created in December 2019 (before the 3.0L was widely available), that states the loose ground cable problem as well as the affected vehicles (not the 3.0 because not known at the time I'm sure). Also attached are images the last service center sent me. Here is a google photos link showing what is happening at the DIC when not starting. I plan to fix these cable ends in place "permanently" one way or anther... a44daab6-e9dd-46d2-af66-d9b3740649db.jfif 02145852-99cc-4ea6-b495-bdcd3514efb6.jfif

I'd probably have the dealer replace your anbient air temp sensor if that's the case. Apparently that sensor does more than just tell you the outside temp. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Awesome! I'm up in De Pere.

This is interesting. What was the outside temperature when you started the truck? I'm guessing it was below freezing? Also, your icon next to your name is the green G. Are you also located in wi or just a fan? I'm actually in the greater GB area. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

This is interesting. What was the outside temperature when you started the truck? I'm guessing it was below freezing? Also, your icon next to your name is the green G. Are you also located in wi or just a fan? I'm actually in the greater GB area. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

This is the first time I've heard of it happening without using the block heater. Keep us updated if it continues. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

So this is my experience over the last few days. Unfortunately/fortunately we are through the sub-zero temps here for a while in Wisconsin. Attached is a spreadsheet of my data collection. My dealer called on Monday asking me what I had experienced, so I sent them this file without the last few days of information. I have yet to hear back from them. Truck Troubleshooting Data.xlsx

I agree, I hope this is all that is needed until they can fix the remote start part. I hope to hear your experiences if you give the block heater a shot!

Not sure I follow this. If you unplug the heater and then start the vehicle, the element should still be heated, thus I wouldn't expect it to be that big of difference. I'm not familiar with how hot the element gets, but the engine is never at 160 when I start it after using the block heater, so I have this hunch that it doesn't get crazy hot in the first place...? Maybe? But, I'm pretty sure that it's not getting above the boiling point of the coolant, which is then when I would expect the "water on a light bulb" scenario to happen. Idk, I'm just speculating and thinking aloud. Again, thank you for your input!

I appreciate your input. So you are experiencing what the dealer is, that if it's not being remote started, you have no issues. To clarify, do you plug it in above 0 degrees F?

Do you have a reason behind this? Or is it just so you don't drive away with it plugged in?

Dealer called again. They want me to take the truck back over the weekend and do more testing as the temps are going to be cold enough to test again (though only Sunday when the dealer is closed, and Monday morning). I was told to use the block heater, but only start it with the push button, not remote start. GM thinks there is a programming issue if the remote start is causing the issue. I'll report back as I test throughout the weekend. I'd love to hear what other people experience as well.

Dealer just called, they needed verification of info to give to GM. They asked if 1) was the vehicle remote started or push button started: remote started and 2) was it still plugged in when started: yes This morning they tested (at the dealer) at above 0F temps. They tested by leaving the vehicle plugged in, but used the push button start and did not have the fan issue. Maybe this is a workaround? Anyone else willing to try this on their vehicle? (Above 0F, powered block heater, push button start).

Doing some digging with my weather station data (smarthome), I found the following: From my smart plug that triggered the block heater, I "plugged it in" at 8:33AM Real weather data pulled from weather station sensor on my roof at 8:30am says +2.0 degrees F, while my smart mirror (openweathermap data) said -5.28 at 8:24AM (so I fed them wrong information here). Again, my weather station said that at 9:30AM, the temp outside was +2.4 degrees F, but openweathermap says -1.86 at 9:34 (again I told them it was negative temps when I started it because I was looking at openweathermap data, not the sensor outside my window, but in reality it was above 0F). I looked back at the video I took at 9:32AM of me starting the truck to confirm the actual start time today. I called the dealer back and notified of the actual temperatures, not the openweathermap temps as this is vital to the troubleshooting process I'm sure.