DustSierra

If you are cutting or "chopping" anything you are doing it wrong. One zip tie on each wheel well to move the wheel well liner up a ball hair. Same thing can be done with a heat gun and a stick. A body mount chop is an entirely different animal and not something I'd recommend doing to a vehicle this nice although that's not that big of a deal either. Look up a NorCal mod. Takes five minutes and gives you a fair amount more room to stuff a bigger tire. 4-6"+ lift kits don't look as good on these trucks as a 2" level with ~35 inch tires. Too much wheel well and you get the golf cart tire look. Although that is what most people on these forums do. It's as simple as a stuffed wheel well looks a lot better than an exposed wheel well. Now tire offset or wheel spacers is something different altogether as that pertains to the pushing of the tire out past the fenders. The guy above also hit on some other solid points although I didn't buy a truck to worry about MPG. Also worth pointing out that putting one of these 4" plus lift kits with "off-road" springs and coils is idiotic unless you spend a bunch of time off-road. You effectively are giving your vehicle an infinitely harsher ride on city & highway roads. Those are much firmer springs and struts than are meant for pavement as they are made to travel less when flexed. If you are trying to keep your ride quality and don't want to sink 10 grand into doing it right with 37's, a 2" level is a no brainer on these vehicles. Just because a bunch of other idiots do something doesn't make it the smart way to do it. Hence why you see so many 60 grand vehicles with garbage super rigid off-road suspensions on here, a foot of wheel well and 35's that look comparatively small on the vehicle. Read my other posts. I'm not trying to make fun of folks, nor do I care about how another grown adult spends their money. I'm simply trying to save folks from making an common mistake. When I first got into off-road vehicles, I always thought bigger was better aesthetically and you got what you paid for. It's a game of inches folks. Also, not everyone is running the baja5000. 6" isn't that much bigger than 2". And when you understand that that 4" goes directly to the wheel wells, or when you understand that off-road shocks are just really rigid shocks that suck on the pavement... It's not rocket science. Learned a long time ago the idea is not to "lift" the vehicle, but rather to "stance" the vehicle. Lots of first timers on this forum IWBH. To each his own.

dp

Except for that guys kit is 1.5" where as your motofab kit is 2". As I said earlier, that 2" motofab front kit with the donuts that go on top of the springs isn't going to look right without something in the rear. I never measured as I only did it for aesthetics but the body lines look nose high with just the 2". If I had to do it over again I would probably have gone with the 2.5" motofab kit with 1.5" rear blocks. That'd be perfect IMO. That said, if you are patient you can get 1" blocks off Amazon, but they are on backorder, hence why I went with the 1.5"s. At the end of the day a ball hair here and a ball hair there makes all the difference. Best of luck, going to look better than the stock stance as long as you put on some kind of rear blocks. For those that are lurking and future reference, you are better off going with a 4" lift if you are paying someone for the install. Better bang for your buck. If you are doing it yourself, 2.5" donuts (going to be a ****** to get in) and 1.5" blocks are the call IMO.

About 5 grand. Have one on my '19 SLT and never use it. Looks cool, but I trailer my boat on the regular and am not going to take my ball & hitch off every use therefore rendering the tailgate rather useless during boating season. Was cool the one time I got plywood and popped it up lol. Also is cool to use it as a step and as a spot to sit but I've done that maybe 20x in the 2+ years I've had it and could have done the same thing with a regular tailgate minus the foot placement. What would be a lot cooler is a tailgate with Auto drop AND Auto Up. Now that is something that I'd pay for. The multipro is the definition of a gimmick. Sure the tailgate itself looks 10x more bad@ss with that section cut out of it aesthetically, but to me, that is the best thing about it. Can think of plenty of better ways to spend my money. Anything over $1,000 is absolutely nuts, and in actuality they are going to set you back north of $3,500-$5,000. That's a joke IMO but not going to worry about how somebody else wants to spend their nickels.

Looks good, now all you need is to add wheel spacers, remove the running boards, delete the mudflaps, tint your windows and delete some of the chrome. Haha, looks good though. Have 275/65R20 Duratracs and am a huge fan of that size tire on these trucks. Really do need wheel spacers though to make em look tough.

Depends how aggressive you want it to look. Less wheel well, aggressive tread tires, tires slightly poked out = aggressive. At this point if I were you I'd put on 35" tires and just do the NorCal Mod. The running boards and non color matched fender flares aren't helping either IWBH.

To each his own.

Just need bigger tires. Put 35's on with that lift and it will look a million times better than any 6" lift. The reason you don't like it now is the same reason people with 6" lifts and 35's look dumb. It's all about proportions. The less wheel well the better. You also don't want your wheels poked out like roller skates to which yours aren't.

Just did mine with a Motofab 2" spacer. Looks pretty nose high. Didn't measure as I only did it for aesthetics but the body lines on these trucks are funny. Seems like it is hard to get them where they look level from the front, rear and side. Ordered 1" blocks for the rear, which will give it a little rake but doesn't look like I want with just the 2" spacer. If I had to do it over I'd go with a 2.5" spacer in the front and a 1 or 1.5" in the rear. If you just want to do the front, I think a 1.5" is the call. I upgraded my tires as well to 275/65/r20 Duratracs and I will say that the spacer lift and some agressive tires does change the overall stance and aesthetic of the truck drastically, for the better. Probably gonna put on some 1.5" wheel spacers next to really make it look subtly aggressive.

Have an X31. Fine for going down fire/logging roads. Beyond that it's a half ton truck. Bad entry and departure angles. If you try to take it on "Jeep" trails you're going to pinstripe it to hell. The valence is like 10" off the ground. I mean, the list goes on. Have done plenty of "medium" off-road trails in mine, tore the mudflaps to $hit, bent my exhaust tips and put a massive dent in the crossbeam of my frame and I would consider myself fortunate that that is all that happened lol. Again, it's a 40-60k dollar half ton truck. If you want to do serious off-roading buy a secondary vehicle. But it is obviously as capable as any other 4WD truck. If you know the roads in which you are going prior, you'll be fine. If you are trying to keep up with your Jeep buddies on skinny trails you're going to hate your truck. Just is a physically wider vehicle with a wider turning radius. Is what it is.

Looks good. If I had a black truck, I'd black the whole thing out. Bumpers, badges, mirror caps, etc. It's not hard to do it yourself and doesn't take very long to do. Buy a cheap heat gun and cartridge knife from Walmart and watch a couple Youtube Videos. Most of the time is spent disassembling whatever you're trying to wrap. It's one of those things you don't wanna do wrong or it will look like you have a ricer though. But Avery or 3M vinyl is cheap, very cheap and if you screw it up you can just take redo it. Not into tinting windows myself, but vinyl is a no brainer.

Truth be told they don't look terrible but people put eyelids on larger headlights. They don't really go. About the only thing you could do to those headlights is put some halos in them.

Run 275/65/R20 Goodyear Duratracs with 2" level on mine. 34.5" tire that is essentially the most aggressive All-Terrain tire they make A.K.A. the best looking non-mud tire money can buy. Looks considerably more aggressive than Toyo Open Country, K02's, etc. Uber popular tire on other off-road platforms. Lost about .5-1 mpg over the stock 275/60/R20 Wrangler AT Worth every penny in gas mileage that I lose. Truck looks so much better that I would have gladly done it over again even if I was losing 5x the mileage. If you are worried about gas mileage, you shouldn't be driving a truck. You could lift your truck 8-10" and throw on 37's and I'm sure you would still be getting 10-12 MPG although you would do much better with a deisel.

Gonna unload this overpriced piece of machinery and find the next best deal, Sierra or not.

So what you are telling me is that my fully loaded 4WD SLT that I paid 42,500 for TTT OTD for a few months prior to the rona, is going to be worth 60,000 in a few years at this rate? Great, I'll drive the hell out of it, put another 50k miles and unload it on some poor, unsuspecting soul before it hits 100k miles, for top dollar. Best investment ever. Printing money with this thing at this rate.

It's like anything else, would you want OEM or Aftermarket? In the world of trucks OEM is always going to reign supreme. However there are obviously levels to aftermarket. Lots of people bolt on a bunch of trash to their trucks though and think they are upgrading it. Sorry but a 6" rough country lift, with bug and window deflectors, some 20x12 method wheels wrapped in Cooper 35's, nerf bars, chrome Ebay stick door handles, aftermarket tinted taillights and a POS light package is going to reduce the value of your truck immeasurably despite the fact that you sunk 5-10k into it. You don't put a bumper sticker on a Ferrari. Aftermarket wheels are bumper stickers.

Looks good. What wheel spacers you running? Have to grind down the studs?

Will look good. Not that expensive to wrap it. Do it and post pics.

If money is no object and you are serious about rock-crawling and off-roading your 60k full sized vehicle you want a lift kit like this: Lift Kit You want to upgrade your front struts/springs to coilovers: Coilovers (check to make sure they'll work with that lift kit though) You'll want some beadlock wheels in a 16 or 17" version: Beadlocks Wrapped in some Duratracs or other ultra aggressive A/T tire: Duratracs That should set you back about 10 grand if your paying someone else to do all of it. You will have an uber stiff suspension for off-roading so you damn sure better be out there on a regular basis or you will wonder what the hell you just spent so much money on. Off-roading is fun and seems like a great idea, but rock crawling sucks @$$ and their aren't that many dirt/forestry roads that you truly need an "off-road suspension for" that aren't going to pinstripe the every living $hit out of your car anyway. Not to mention you need front and rear bumpers a full set of skids, etc. If you are more interested in Dune/Beach/Baja style off-roading you need a long travel kit, to which they don't make yet for the T1's. I say all of this to say that you might be better off with a leveling kit and a new set of wheels tires. Save yourself a lot of $$$ for something that might not suit you.

275/65/r20 Duratrac's on mine with a 2" level and no rub, but by an absolute ballhair on the rear fender. Got like a millimeter gap lol Not sure I can see how a 35x11.5r20's wouldn't rub but there are people on here that claim they don't. You are looking at a shorter wider tire. There's a thread on here with 25+ pages of only leveled trucks. With a 33x12.5 wide tire your bigger problem is going to be clearing the UCA's. You can always buy wheel spacers as well. Think you're fine just depends on the offset of the wheels you're running. Not sure a 12.5 wide would fit on a stock 9 wide rim, but could be wrong.

You can color match wrap so that it looks OEM. The main issue with wrap is rock chips look like crap after a few years. If you did find someone that could sandblast a bumper, you're going to be paying as much as a new OEM bumper for them to sandblast and powder coat. Powder coating looks like $hit on anything but wheels and suspension parts IMO. Painting is the only viable option if you're trying to do it right. Just very labor intensive removing the chrome, but it can be done, although it's probably cost prohibitive if you're not at least doing the prep work yourself. As someone who had the full intent on color matching his truck when I bought it, I've learned to like the Chrome. These T1's have a pretty agressive front end and extremely good looking rear end. Throw some 35's and a leveling kit on it and they're by far the best looking trucks on the road IMO.

Responding to you in two different threads so I'll just leave it all here. Any time you run over 3" of lift without CV axle adapters, differential drop, extended end links etc. you are going to run into problems. Maybe not a week later, maybe not even 6 months later but all those joints are going to be squealing in a matter of time and all those boots are going to rip eventually. They weren't made for that angle or to be put under that stress. Period. And even if you do run all of those things to compensate, you are still essentially running some bootleg angles (no pun intended) that minimal R&D went into. You think The Zone, Rough Country, etc. spent as much in R&D on each one of their kits as GM did? They make lifts for hundred's of different types of trucks lol. All those guys on here with 6" lifts, if they were keeping it 100, guarantee their suspension sounds like squeaking metal anytime they hit anything, if not at all times. They have essentially taken a Billion dollars of R&D and jerryrigged together a new suspension by bolting on a bunch of metal to the original suspension in an effort to get an extra 6" out of it. And that's with the differential drop, extended CV's, etc. Think a $hitty erector set. Like I said earlier, if you just change the Struts/springs or Coilovers and add new UCA's you're not changing anything but the angle of the steering knuckle. The end links are going to fail, the lower ball joints, upper ball joints are going to fail, etc. You are essentially making your entire suspension Uber-fragile and installing crappily made UCA's that have a better angle. Any aftermarket UCA that is not a Heim joint Uni-ball is a POS. I paid good money for my truck not to sound like a heap. But hey, to each his own. If you have to have that extra inch and a half, which is negligible to 99.9% of people looking at your truck, that's a personal decision. But again, been around lifted vehicles for a long time and these trucks are essentially "too nice" to do that to. You complain about the struts/coils essentially being soft. That is because 99.9% of the soccer moms that buy these vehicles, that is the ride that they prefer. Unless you rock crawl or are hitting Baja every weekend, you do too, you likely just don't know it. People that like the "truck feel" or the "planted feel" are just justifying their purchase. Don't hit a pothole, stay off roads that have bumps, etc. and you'll be much better off the other 99.9% of the time. Nothings perfect. The problem lies in the aftermarket suspension companies, Fox, Icon, Bilstein, are essentially all making stuff engineered for Off-Road use. The struts are designed to not articulate too much so that when you are off roading over rocks and bumps at higher speeds that you won't bottom out. Hence the struts/coils are all stiff as $hit. You would think there would be a happy middle ground but there really isn't. Even compression adjustable shocks are a lot stiffer than the stock Ranchos. You gonna fugger up your truck for an inch and a half? Not me. But look at all the folks on here with 4"+ lifts. It's like the bolton Walmart starter kit. Get your bug deflector, front license plate, chrome stick on door handles, sissy steps, etc. while you're at it. To answer your question I bought the 2" Motofab leveling kit, but any 2" kit is going to do the same thing. You could drill out two hockey pucks if you wanted to. And even that is going to put some level of undue stress on your suspension but not even one iota close to anything over 3". These are expensive vehicles, with quality components. Never understood why people would want to replace quality with crap, but I've also never understood other people. If you are interested in quality, "stance your vehicle" instead of lifting it. The difference b/w a 2" lift with 35's and a 4" lift with 35's s going to be unnoticeable to everyone but you. 2" lift looks better in a different way because the wheel wells are more filled out anyway. If you really want it to look aggressive, throw on some 1.5" spacers (which do wear out the wheel bearings over time) and tint your windows. That's about the only thing you can do to improve these trucks along with some AMP research steps (for the non-Denali owners), a supercharger, catch can and headers. The rest of this stuff is crap IMO. Good luck. I mean if you're gonna lift your truck with quality components here is a good kit for $4500 (with Torsion bars) +($2000) adjustable coilovers. Even then you are running blocks in the rear which is crap for what amounts to a $6500 kit. IDK man, every inch is a give and take. IMO you either go all out with something like a 7" long travel McGaughy's (which doesn't exist yet for this gen) and 37's and have a quality machine for an extra $15-20k or you keep it close to stock. Otherwise you're simply degrading the machine for a couple inches. But I guess everyone looks at it different. Just telling you the other side of the coin. TIFWIW. 6" BDS Lift Kit

It goes something like this in regards to that kit. They give you UCA's and spacers. Putting 3.5" spacers on stock suspension is just dumb without compensating for the changes in geometry. You are putting so much undue stress on the tie rods, sway bar end links, CV axles, lower control arms etc. that your front end components are all going to wear out extremely quick. Now if you like disassembling your entire front end every six months and going down to auto zone, pressing out ball joints and changing CV axles, putting some BS Autozone components on there, sure looks like a great kit. For everyone else, you are inevitably going to wear out your OEM components insanely quick. A proper lift would give you the necessary spacers, adapters and components to compensate for all these changes in geometry. Look at The Zone or BDS for a proper 4" lift. Secondly, Those are crappy UCA's. Any good aftermarket UCA is going to be a uni-ball. Bet those joints wear out and start squeaking within 3 years. All in all, looks like a $600 way to have your entire front end squealing like pig in a matter of 6-24 months. Nobody who knows what they are looking at or talking about would buy that lift, not because of how $hitty they know Rough Country to be, but moreso because of how it's designed. Notice how no other brand sells a kit with 3.5" spacers that doesn't compensate for those changes in geometry? Only Rough Country. And before anyone chimes in otherwise, UCA's only control the angle of the steering knuckle which will allow you to get it aligned close to spec, but doesn't account for the changes in CV axles, tie rod ends, sway bar end links and lower control arm ball joints. I would expect someone to have to replace every single one at least once over time with that kit. Best of luck saving a couple hundred bucks, to properly ruin your 60k vehicle's front end real quick. Here is a proper lift that does all of the aforementioned: Proper 4" Lift All lifts are POS because you are changing the engineering that these manufacturers spent Billions of dollars in R&D to perfect, but there are levels to how big of POS. FWIW I put on a 2" top mount spacer and called it a day. With 35's it looks like a million bucks, you don't have two feet of wheel well exposed, doesn't affect the ride quality and you aren't going to wear out your components like clockwork. All my opinion, but it's also FACTS.

DP.

Either vinyl wrap them or get the palm sander and respirator out and prepare to spend 4-6 hours sanding them. Nobody is likely going to have a large enough sand blaster to get all the chrome off to properly powder coat them. Here's a good video. Painting them is the way to go, vinyl wrap is inevitably going to get chipped up and look like $hit (to you) after 3 years and it's not like you can touch it up like you can paint. It's all in the prep but no doubt they suck to sand. Here's a good video. If done right, they will come out perfect. Most body shops just don't want to deal with the hassle. Painting Chrome Bumpers