RCF71

Well, looks like less incentives for May on HD’s (April was 2.4% for 72 months or $500 cash but only on 2023’s). Now is only $500 cash on 2023’s only. Dang!

Please be true!!! I’ll be tickled pink! Just worked a deal on a 2024 ZR2 that is in transit with an ETA of May 7

Would have to be a Superduty with the 6.7L Powerstroke for me. I’ve owned Chevy’s (3), Toyotas (3), Dodge/ram (1), and GMC (2), so no brand loyalty here. My criteria - 1) do I like the looks (life's too short to drive an ugly truck), 2) features I want/need (most fit this these days as my wants/needs are fairly simple - 4wd, comfortable heated/cooled seats, backup camera), 3) reliability (does not necessarily have to be the best, but acceptable otherwise would probably only drive Toyotas). Personally not a fan of the new Tundra’s look, mostly a bunch little things that add up. Also, not a boosted V6 fan, so ruled it out quick for me. My one and only (ever) Dodge was a 1999 2500 with the 5.9 Cummins - the absolute worst vehicle I ever owned and all local dealers were horrible. The motor was awesome, but the transmission had issues, as did the steering, brakes, suspension, dash fell into a hundred pieces, …. Only vehicle that left such a bad taste in my mouth that I doubt I’ll ever forget enough to own another. My 2012 F350 6.7L was as reliable as any of my Toyotas, and my 2019 F150 3.5L ecoboost was right behind it. But not a fan of the ecoboost - felt like I was working the snot out of it just pulling a utility trailer with a side by side on it (gas mileage went 10mpg or lower, and that was with focus on maxing fuel economy). Empty, it was awesome - fast and good mpg. My Chevy’s/GMC’s haven’t been quite as reliable as my Fords honestly, but hoping this AT4 will be!

PM sent thanks! Clint

Any updates? How is the sound?

PLEASE give us a quick review on Hottexhaust (saw the sale, but was skeptical of the site personally) and the exhaust as soon as possible!

Well, I’m up almost 9k miles on my truck, and have not noticed any noticeable increase in tire noise to this point. Maybe some folks just aren’t used to more aggressive tread tires. I’ve been running ‘em for going on 30yrs myself. This tire does make more noise than BFG AT KO’s (have had 5-6 sets of these), but not obnoxious in my opinion. If they don’t get much louder than they currently are, I’ll gladly buy another set.

1” would prob have been perfect but didn’t want to grind down the factory lugs. After doing it, I don’t think grinding them down would be too bad honestly.

Dang, I need this! I would love to be able to eat my fries with ketchup while driving! Haha

I know everyone is thinking I’m joking, insane or an idiot right now… I’m honestly curious if anyone has ever tried a different size Duratracs ? The stockers are “C” rated, so I’m curious if the “D” or “E” rated Duratracs wear better/different and thus have less noise than the stock ones? I’m most interested in the 275/70R18 (D rated) as they are not a lot heavier but are about 1” taller and have better load ratings. edited to add - Not planning to lift my truck but may do a 1”-ish level & UCA upgrade in future. I have the stock 18” wheels and just ordered 1.25” Bora spacers.

I have heard a few Magnaflow systems, had one myself years ago. I want to eliminate the flappers as well without getting drone/weird sound.

It’s been around at least 6 months, found it right after I bought my truck in July but couldn’t find any reviews, etc, then either 75+% of my driving is in the range you mentioned it sounding weird, as I drive mostly freeway miles. That’s part of the reason I was curious about this system as the J pipe supposedly eliminates drone???

I have a ‘21 AT4 with the 6.2L. I also have a ‘17 Camaro SS, and love the sound! I would like a little more/better exhaust sound from my AT4, but I don’t want to spend a fortune (GM Perf for example). I also don’t want anything quite as loud as my Camaro. I was looking at a Magnaflow replacement muffler with a “J” pipe - anyone tried this one? https://www.magnaflow.com/products/19534-performance-exhaust-magnaflow-d-fit-muffler-replacement-with-muffler-performance-exhaust-system

Has anyone installed this kit (part 19417166) on a ‘21? i just called Kicker tech support and was told it was “not compatible” due to losing seat belt, blinker, etc, chimes when installed on ‘21’s due to a change in the radio. They said it still functions properly stereo-wise, just causes the loss of the chimes. I honestly could care less about losing the chimes, actually think thats a benefit vs a loss . So I’m thinking about ordering it…

Ok, fixed it. A few notes: - octane and volatility are not correlated, octane has more to do with the chemical structure of each molecule, not its size (which is what most affects volatility) - higher octane fuel is definitely not cheaper to produce, refineries have processing units that cost 100’s of millions of dollars to convert low octane molecules into higher octane molecules… why should higher octane fuel be cheaper? - lower octane is not “more combustible”, it simply has a lower activation energy - combustion is a chemical reaction, and all reactions need a certain amount of energy to start/continue - “diluted” fuel is not better for high compression engines, unless you are “diluting” the gasoline portion with an additive that has much higher octane (ethanol, methanol, mtbe, etc) - lower octane fuel may or may not have more energy than higher octane fuel, again, not directly correlated. In the case of ethanol addition to raise octane, it is true that the energy content is lowered (ethanol has approx. 30% lower energy content than typical gasoline) - do not put kerosene in your gasoline, it will not burn completely and will leave you with carbon deposits (at best, because it will not vaporize and mix thoroughly), but kerosene can go into diesel to lower power pour point/prevent gelling

All of that bolded info is incorrect.

Bumping this up… Has anyone had theirs replaced and it not turn blue again? Was hoping to wait ‘til this was resolved before taking in my truck (‘21 AT4 built in June) to have my driver’s side replaced.

I see just the opposite when I look them up. Interestingly though, it doesn’t show up as an option for ‘21 trucks but does for ‘20 and prior years - I didn’t think ‘21’s were any different than ‘20’s but who knows. Might be worth a call to Kicker to clear it up.

There are two different sub plus speaker amp kits - one for the IOR stereo and one for the IOS stereo. Think the part # is 19417166 for the IOS system.

Same here.

I traded my ‘19 F150 on a new Explorer ST for my wife. Similar story, no major issues, just never loved it and they gave me almost what I paid for a 2yr old, 30k mile truck. I had the 3.5 ecoboost - plenty of torque, fast, but sucked gas when hauling or towing anything. Decided I wanted to go back to a v8, so I found a ‘21 AT4 with the 6.2 - very happy with my decision. It’s not quite as fast/quick and empty fuel mileage not quite as good. Hauling or towing the mpg doesn’t drop like the ecoboost did (almost cut in half hauling a utv on a utility trailer, 3000lbs total but more about wind resistance). Wife and I both agree the AT4 seats are more comfortable, which was another complaint about the F150. If I only needed to tow occasionally or haul mulch, etc, I would have kept the F150. But 30% of my driving the F150 was towing the trailer/utv.

The GM CAI “reflash” only does one thing - it re-maps the MAF (manifold air flow) sensor to read correctly. It does not change fueling curves, etc. All of the aftermarket CAI’s are supposedly designed to read correctly (or close enough to correct) without re-mapping the MAF sensor. Not saying that couldn’t be the issue, as that’s exactly what could cause a lean condition (more air flow than is being measured, hence too little fuel for the amount of air actually entering the cylinders). I would do the following - first, remove and re-install your CAI, ensuring everything is installed properly, no leaks, etc. (anything not installed correctly can cause this as well). If that doesn’t fix it, then re-install the factory airbox and see if it still runs lean. If it runs fine with the factory airbox, ditch your CAI or maybe try a different brand CAI.

Previous thread I mentioned above had several references to torquing the four fuse box bolts to 53inlbs (https://gm-techlink.com/?p=13437). Even though it only mentions 2019-2020 trucks, decided to check mine anyway... got a full turn on each of the four bolts using my torque wrench, hopefully that was my issue!

Well... I got an OnStar email yesterday, says my battery is low. Truck starts fine, no DTCs or SEL. But worried it’s coming... Found an earlier thread about similar battery issues when mine was in the shop last time, time to go find it again.

Honestly, you would have been better off using the 6112’s setting for lift vs the spacer. When the word “preload” is used, it is only referring to when the strut is off the truck (ie., no weight on the strut/spring). There is ZERO additional preload when it is mounted on the truck! The weight of the truck will still cause more load on the spring than the preload placed on the spring by the upper setting on the Bilsteins (in other words, the weight of the truck places more compression force on the spring than is placed on it by an in-strut spacer or a strut with adjustable spring perches, so the spring will sit at the same length once mounted on the truck, and ride will not be impacted). This is a very widely misunderstood and poorly explained topic, mostly because sites that attempt to explain this are trying to sway you one way or the other and “embellish” on those misconceptions.