RCF71

Doesn’t help this situation, but my 2019 F150 had really thin paint as well. I had lots of chips and some of the chips even led to more paint peeling on on my grill. Not just a GM issue - I’d guess some fault probably lies with paint formulation changes due to emissions, maybe even using thinner coats for weight savings/mpg, etc.

I’d be curious too! I am contemplating buying a set of black 20” Trail Boss wheels/tires. I currently have the 18” wheels and Duratracs, but think I want black wheels on this truck.

Based on my experience, this is not totally uncommon for TPMS systems.

I think that they (GM and Ford) say you can run regular ‘cause most rednecks wouldn’t buy a truck knowing they HAD to run premium. Most folks consider me a redneck, so please don’t take that offensively!

Where are you filling up? I have never seen .75-1.00/gal difference that I can remember... I’m filling up at Costco now, .30-.35/gal difference, so ~$7/gal per fillup. Yes, other places are 0.40-0.50/gal more. On a different note, folks can think & do/run whatever they want, but this motor needs premium to run to it’s published specs, etc. Can programming, knock sensors, etc, compensate? Yes, but you won’t get the same performance. If driven mildly yes you may get the same mileage, but not when you push/work it. Ford’s ecoboost is the same - manual says run a minimum of 87 but the goes on to say for best performance and to meet published specs to run premium. More and more vehicle are going towards premium due to CAFE and emissions standards. There is a push to have all new vehicles run premium (or even higher octane than current premium) - engines designed to run premium get better gas mileage, and thats why it’s being discussed (by manufacturers, fuels producers, .gov, etc).

Is the battery low after doing the update? Not sure how long it takes so curious if you had to leave the truck on, etc?

Well, looks like it was as simple as a bad battery... time will tell. They tried to charge it (wouldn’t turn completely off before I had it towed, so battery drained overnight), and it wouldn’t take a charge at all. They replaced the battery and truck is acting normal. Guess all these dang electronics are extra sensitive, never had an issue like this with my Camaro and the battery gets kinda low frequently as I don’t drive it a lot.

I traded an F150 Lariat for my AT4. Seats are more firm, but more comfortable and supportive in my opinion. My back would hurt on drives over an hour or so in the F150.

Part of the problem right now is the shortage of new vehicles, so dealers have fewer demos/loaners. Same with rental car companies. Running in to that problem right now myself, and it’s every dealer I called yesterday. Luckily I have my Camaro to drive, just causes a few small inconveniences for me but aware most folks don’t have an extra car sitting around (question myself on that quite often).

Thats exactly what i did. The only “issue” is the drain tubes running down to the bed holes... those bed holes get covered by these bins if you use 2 like me and push ‘em all the way back. I used a piece of 2x6 behind ‘em to keep ‘em pushed out beyond those holes, then I put a strap across the front of ‘em. But honestly, they are very unlikely to move around because they are a slightly tight fit under the canister. I will probably drill some holes in the bed further out for the canister drain lines, but wasn’t eager to do that immediately ‘til I thought it through a bit more.

I’m not a suspension expert, but nothing jumps out at me as being an issue as long as you redo setup of the WDH after installing the helper springs.

No, I thought about it but decided to let them have it as is rather than it maybe start again and then wonder when it quits or they say they can’t replicate it. Things are so computerized/electronic these days, it’s nice when things work but little things can be very frustrating! When I first saw the O2 sensor code, my first thought was someone stole my catalytic converter last night, but it was still there.

Thanks! Me too! I will update when I know more, hopefully tomorrow. It just got offloaded at the closest dealer, they said they would look at it tomorrow.

I’m trying, but been over an hour now... not wanting to get $hitfaced! Hahaha

Ok, that was on my way to the park and ride this am. Just got back to truck about 30mins ago.... went into limp mode, pulled back in to parking lot, put in park and killed it... except it says “Put into Park” now and won’t totally turn off. Motor is off but dash and radio still on. Waiting for tow truck now while having a beer in ac at sportbar by park and ride lot... 2 months old and 2200 miles... sad!

Well crap! Almost sounds like a bad harness connection or something maybe... No issues starting, driving, etc. Zero issues before this.

Pretty sure I’m gonna go this route myself after looking at CAI, Rotofab, etc. It looks nice and appears to have best flow capability, better than factory filtration, and “bonus” is a lower price than most others.

Thanks! I may have to attempt this over the winter (once it’s below 80F that is)! I did put Dynamat in a truck years ago, so pretty familiar with installing the stick on stuff. It’s dropping the headliner that’s a little unnerving!

I hear ya on the AFM crap, but I get awesome fuel mileage in my ‘17 Camaro SS on the hwy with or without AM on (I have a Range AFM disabler). I got 28-29mpg on my one long trip from Houston to NE Arkansas! Lifetime average is 20mpg, and there is much more “fun” driving than trips on the odometer! It has a GMPP CAI and ported throttle body & intake manifold, and I swapped out the OEM wheels and run flats with forged wheels and slightly wider Michelin PS3’s. It is a blast to drive - too much power and handles awesome! I’m probably gonna do a few more mods (E85, tune ECM and PCM, etc.) soon - not sure why cause its already too dang fast.

The way I read their test data is that it flows about 50% more cfm at a specific pressure drop across the filter/housing than the stock setup while achieving slightly better filtration using a certain test media/dust. That should equate to better/more airflow but not 50% because there are other restrictions in the systems.

Reason I ask is the reflash is just for remapping the MAF sensor. Going back to a CAI designed to replace the stock airbox, your MAF reading will have some error and “could” cause some issues - not sure how far off your reading would be as I haven’t seen a comparison of the calibrations for the MAF. I have a copy of what they are for my Camaro - someone on that forum pulled before and after maps with HP tuners and sent me a copy, pretty big difference on that application.

Holy $hit batman, this thing (2021 GMC AT4) is LOUD in the rain! By far the loudest vehicle I’ve ridden in during a fairly hard rain with bigger drops! I hate the idea of dropping the headliner but not sure I can live with how loud this is... @Buddy A mind sharing any more details/pics on how you did that?

Did you go feom the GMPP CAI to the S&B? If so was your truck flashed by GM for the GMPP CAI?

Seems to be a fairly common GM problem. My Camaro does it BAD! They have/had a TSB for it. I had it done (very involved, have to remove windshield) - no change! 74ish or lower and driving under 30mph, and it fogs up an area about the size of a basketball. My Sierra does it if AC turned down to 70 or lower, and truck is sitting still. Not near as bad as my Camaro though, so it doesn’t bother me. On the Camaro, they said it was due to some foam pieces on the defrost “door” to quieten the operation when it closes, but they kept it open too far. Supposedly they pulled those off when they performed the TSB, but I didn’t notice any change.

I kinda wondered about that when I first noticed the “squishiness” of the fake pedal area, but fit everywhere else is pretty decent. Guess just a design flaw. I had some foam (high density, closed cell, ...) in the garage, so cut a piece to fit under that area. Feel is much better now, and I’ll just live with that.