Nathan Barr

Thank you! I disconnected the battery yesterday to clear things out and see if it comes back. Time will tell but I have a feeling I will be replacing or in the least diagnosing that sensor.

So replacing the sensor would come before looking at replacing the canister under the hood, correct?

Thank you for that. My simple little scan tool isn't that fancy so the only "test" I was able to do was to monitor the inH2O while revving to 3k RPM's and holding it. In doing this, that number went from about -2.9 to -5.0. After letting off of the throttle, it backed down to around -2.9. I'm not entirely sure if that means anything at all or if I should just look at replacing the sensor on the fuel tank.

Love to hear that. I'll take a gander today and see what I can see. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something under the hood. Videos seem split. Some point to the EVAP stuff there but I was pretty positive it didn't have to do with that.

I was looking up some videos and found a couple of different ways to get to it. One involved lifting one side of the bed, the other removed the drive shaft, etc. Do you know what the best method is? I will try to just look today and see if I can't find an easy access way to it...

Howdy all. A few weeks ago I went to remote start my truck and it wouldn't do it. Lights would flash like it was going to and then nothing. Got in, started it without an issue and off I went. After a few days of this I disconnected the battery and let it sit. After reconnecting, no more issue. Fast forward to yesterday, same thing. Finally the CEL came on. I assume this is why it's been giving me remote start fits. Plugged in my scanner and got P0451 - Evaporative emission system pressure sensor / switch range / performance. Doing some reading it sounds like this is the pressure sensor on the top side of the fuel tank, is that right? I want to be sure before considering dropping the tank and replacing it. As far as filling up with gas goes, on occasion the pump will shut off and I will have to start it again but it's probably 1/10th of the time when filling up. EVAP_VP (inH2O) shows -3.0 - -4.9 if that matters. Thanks all! 2014 Silverado LT 4x4 5.3L 99k miles

That's weird. I actually ended up ordering 1 ball joint right after I had replied to you. I got it pressed in without any issues. I didn't end up using the snap ring though, since the RC arms don't have that built into them. However, everything else went in fine and I didn't need to use the stupid adapter sleeve that RC provides either. A couple of days later I ordered a 2nd ball joint and pressed that into the passenger side. Been running them for a couple of weeks now, so far no issues. We will see how they hold up. If they die quickly, I will be eyeing other arms all together.

Good call on the load range. I am actually checking out some other options now. Any recommendations that are around that size? Current tires are Nito Terra Grapplers, 275/55R/20

Anyone running the Mastercraft Courser CXT tires? I have ran some other Courser's in the past and never had any issues with them, loved the tires. I am needing new tires before winter and came across these in the size I want and the price is in my budget. Reviews on SimpleTire seem pretty positive but wanted to ask here as well. Size: 305/55R/20 Also looking at Kumho Road Venture AT51 if anyone has any experience with those? Edit to add my truck, if it matters: 2014 Silverado 1500 4x4 Crew Cab 3 inch leveling kit (planning to swap this for Bilstein adjustable shocks soon)

Definitely let me know, please! I ordered a different moog model that people recommended for the older style of RC UCA's and it doesn't fit. If that one really does fit I'll be ordering them ad well!

To be honest I am a little torn. I like the ride quality better than the stocks arms after installing the leveling kit, that's for sure. However, I am rather bitter when it comes to the actual ball joints themselves. The ball joints are proprietary to Rough Country so you can only get replacements through them directly. On that note as well, when I installed the arms I installed them incorrectly as I forgot to include the little sleeve that they include in the kit. That's my fault and I take full blame. However, when replaced the ball joints due to a torn boot from incorrect install, the boot on the drivers side arm tore again. I got a replacement ball joint and installed and again, it tore on install. I cannot figure out why it's happening but it is. So I am a bit salty about the ball joints themselves but when working properly, they do offer a nice ride. If I were to go back and do it again I would quite possibly cough up the extra money and go with some different UCA's.

Hi all. I'm looking to replace my current setup with something that is smoother riding and not as aggressive on angles. I currently have stock rancho shocks and 3 inch blocks in the front. I was considering the adjustable Bilstein shocks and setting them to max height but also wanted to get 2 inches of lift if I could. I know the bilsteins come in at something like 1.75 or so. The other downside to the bilsteins is that I will need to take them to a shop and have then swapped into my springs. My other option is the lifted Ranchos or the lifted loaded struts from rough country, or just going with 2 inch blocks instead. I also have the rough country upper control arms installed if that makes any difference to anyone. Thoughts?

That seems odd to me. I am currently running a 3 inch leveling block in the front, with rough country upper control arms. Tires/wheels are 275/55r/20 on 20x9 aftermarket wheels. Wheels have the same offset as factory. I've got a solid inch when at full lockout. 2014 silverado 1500 z71 4x4