poppy510

My horn was also cut and truck broken into. The horn is easily accessible to thieves just by reaching through the grill....GMC should program the louvers to close when parked. My horn and wiring are now shrouded with very sharp sheet metal to prevent future attempts.

I bought box of the platinum because the Peak blue was sold out. I promptly received a P2BAA code "SERVICE DEF SYSTEM." The countdown to limp was activated. The code cleared after a few restarts. Interesting that others have reported issues with the Platinum....will be researching more.

This would be good. The auto exhaust brake on tow mode is worthless. As far as I can tell it just redlines the engine even when light braking would be adequate. I often turn tow mode off downhill to avoid the excessive downshifting.

ya the cutouts in the exhaust pipes near the outlet. I think they let cold air to cool down the exhaust when it's going through a regen. Basically so you don't get burned when you walk by the exhaust.

Well I overlooked a leak at the clamp at the braided flex connector because it was leaking so bad it blew the soap right out without making bubbles. I used a shop vac backwards and blowing into the tail pipe to locate. Plugged the second pipe with a rag and taped the exhaust pipe cutouts (cooler vents) closed. Used tiger tape under the clamp and had to snug up the 02 sensor too. No more leak and no endless “cannot replicate” loop with the dealer. here is a link with more discussion about this apparently very common issue. https://www.duramaxforum.com/threads/dealer-cannot-fix-cel.1019251/page-8

Well I may have found the source of the exhaust smell. No leaks that I could detect at any of the pipe joints, but found a significant leak from the turbocharger vane actuator shaft. I then found this Service Bulletin No.: 22-NA-168: However, it clearly states Any thoughts? Seems Like a lot of exhaust coming from the shaft....enough to smell inside the cab.

Can some of you weigh in on this: I notice the smell at cold start when it is COLD out...i.e. near or below freezing. Are you all getting the smell in cold weather conditions only, or every time you start for the first time in the morning no matter what the outside temp is? Thanks...trying to get the dealer to replicate...

I would sue you immediately if you crashed into me.

That’s a good idea. Going to cover the door key hole too to make it less convenient.

The best solution would be to program the truck so that the louvers close when the truck is shut off. Anyone at @GMCustomerService listening?

All you have to do is reach into the front grill and unplug.

My 2022 Sierra 3.0 liter Elevation was broken into in a fairly busy parking lot. The first thing they did was unplug the horn, which is ridiculously easy. Then they punched the driver door lock and were in with no alarm. Just a heads up. Im planning to put some sort of cage around the horn and wire connector just to make it a LITTLE less convenient for a thief to disable the horn/alarm.

The OP, along with several other posters stated that this is happening only when cold and using REMOTE START. This is my issue. I do not seem to have the smell when I am in the truck starting it with the start button. Can others clarify if they are having the issue with Remote AND Manual start, or just using Remote start.

I’ve posted my simple solution too…a number of times. But people continue to be perplexed by the noise and how to fix it.

See my post from April 11th. $40 and 15 minutes and you will have this problem SOLVED!

f\Following because I have not heard of Fuel Up but interested!

What effects have you seen from the COI and resonator delete?

My 2022 Sierra did this once. 70 degree F weather. Turned it off and it came back on normally. It threw a code that self-cleared after 2 or 3 starts.

No! I put a floor jack on the frame near the rear door and jacked up one side of the truck until most of the weight was off one rear wheel. This mostly unloads the leaf springs and allows the flat head screwdriver technique. Full disclosure, there is still quite a bit of force between the springs. I used a big screwdriver (+/- 2 foot), and had to spit on the rubber (hehe) to slide it in between the springs. I don't see how jacking on the axle between the differential and the shock would unload the spring.

OK fellas, I was 100% CONVINCED that the noise was due to excessive axle end play. Sounded like a tennis ball rolling around in the bed at low speeds, especially while turning. My plan was to have the dealer measure the lateral play when I got my first free oil change, but deep inside I know that this would be the first step in a shitstorm of BS from the dealer. I read all of the speculation about it being improperly torqued U-boats on the leaf springs, differential, shock mounts, bushings, calipers, etc. And the most implausible of all was the idea that the leaf springs were rubbing together and causing the clunk. But some of you sounded so believable! I'm a licensed mechanical engineer with a strong background in cars, boats, hotrods, customs, motorcycles, and I just couldn't wrap my head around how the leaf springs could result in that noise. I decided to take a shot and buy the SpringThings recommended earlier in this thread. Took me 15 minutes to install and I'll be goddamned, but the clunking absolutely disappeared! While under there I could see that there is a LOT of force between those upper leaves, and when they slide (its a minute amount of motion), they "pop". It's not a smooth rub like you would imagine. Anyway, thanks to all for the recommendation. $40 well spent...I'm in love again! PS I can no longer cause the sound by shaking the bed back and forth either. For those of you caught in the endless dealer loop, or paralyzed by multiple theories, do yourself a favor and cough up the $40...better than days at the dealer, and feels like a more robust solution than the TSB shenanigans.

I wired mine to the passenger fuse box, running the wire along the headliner and down the pillar. There is a free spade terminal that is keyed to the ignition - on when the start button is pressed...when the truck is turned off it stays on until the door is opened. dont even need to occupy fuse location. I wired an inline fuse. Sorry I cant remember exactly which terminal.

Also, just because they are self adjusting does not mean they do. Jack up each wheel and confirm. I can almost guarantee it is not you controller but is trailer brake wiring or adjustment.

You need to be testing the current to each brake magnet now that you have confirmed voltage. You should be getting about 3A to each wheel. Easiest way to do this is to pull the trailer brake emergency disconnect pin (the cable that you attach to your bumper with the chains so that the brakes engage if the trailer disconnects from the hitch). This will apply max current to each wheel. Of course the trailer battery needs to be connected when you do this. A clamp on ammeter can be used to confirm 3A to each wheel (12A total leaving the battery. There are a number of things that can mess up electric trailer brakes: bad magnets, poor mechanical adjustment of brakes, bad wiring, loose connections... If the magnets are good and are getting 3A, start looking at the mechanicals.

I have not seen anything higher than 198 while towing my 4000 lb TT. 3.0 l with 10 speed.

I did a ton of research and ended up buying the LEER trifold. It has all of the same features as the Bak-flip, but it has a more secure way of opening the latches (from either side). The Bakflip and others can easily be opened with a stick or coat hanger by pushing or pulling the cable through the gap. I bought from eTrailer. I am super happy with it. Looks great, fits great (I like the "sit on the rails" design better because it doesnt take up as much width), it keeps 99% of the water out, and is secure. https://www.etrailer.com/Tonneau_Covers/Leer/LE82FR.html