Pryme

The stock tires which I’ve used multiple times of diff trucks the Michelin ltx at2 is a great all around tire. Get those. I haven’t had Firestone since my 2000 ranger which had recalled firestones replaced.

Yup. Had that bandaid done and it lasted two months. They wanted to do that again on my truck but since I was a month from having it 36mo I said no I want the leafs replaced because that fix will fail when I’m out of warranty and they contacted GM and they got approval to do the leaf springs since my sound was coming from both sides.

Well said and I’m sure my coupler which is a harbor freight is not great. I’ll deal with it next year since that’s probably the next time I’ll need to address the zerks with how few miles I drive the white whale. I couldn’t get the bulky lock n lube onto that lower ball joint at the bottom of each wheel. Very annoying.

So I did eventually get that zerk up top the one on the idler arm centerlink. but I have to say I wasn’t impressed with the lock n lube coupler. I sent it back to Amazon. Most reviews raved about it and maybe it would be great out in the open but for my use under this truck it was bulky and not impressive. also for 35.00 I thought it would be made in America. As their site talks about American made blah blah nope it’s made in South Africa. The simple 90 they sell is made in India. if I’m spending that coin and it’s made overseas, I’ll just buy a 12.00 one from Amazon. Which I am eying up due to it being much slimmer than the lock n lube. I kept the 36” flexzilla hose though. Nice hose.

My clunk was only fixed because they replaced both full leaf assembly’s. Now it’s very silent. No sounds of any kind in the rear.

You’re lucky. Tons of posts on this forum of leaking trucks. Same over on the ford forums. All from roof lights and sliding rear windows.

Looks nice. I personally couldn’t drill holes in my roof.

So I just changed my trucks oil the other day. I ran that oil almost 10mo so just decided to change it now before winter. Only 2700mi on it and there was zero oil loss. I drained the old oil into two empty five quart jugs and put 4qts in each one. It was spot on. That was with the super tech oil.

I don’t recall ever needing to crank the wheel to full lock. Ever. So I’ve never heard anything out of the ordinary.

Yeah I find that stationary one up front closest to the front of the truck to be fine to get to. I put an order in for a few items that should make the job and any other grease job easier. A lockNlube coupler with the 90deg attachment also and a 36” flexzilla hose. Thanks for the info Chuck.

I think it’s the lower one you mentioned. On the top of the arm. You can’t see it you basically have to reach up and feel for it if you’re laying on your back looking up. I actually had the wheel straight but I suppose yes, if I turn the wheel it would probably help. I got to all the others easily. I did take my metal skid plate off though to more easily access it all. I’ll have to look up the size zerk you just mentioned.

Yeah I got all nine too but now the one that’s the most annoying imo is blocked and not taking grease so if I have to remove it I’m either putting a 90 on there or maybe this hose kit.

So you attached that o that one hard to reach zerk fitting and you now can pump it full to a remote location down low? So it is a screw in type it looks like.

So I greased my zerks last night and that one that’s super annoying to get to(is it pitman or idler? Closest to the pass side center) is stuck. Just getting to that one is a pita and it wasn’t taking grease. Plus those lines are basically right in the way. I want to take that one out and replace with a 90 just for ease of maint. Anyone know the specs? Thanks.

At under 40 bucks for 10 quarts of oil, I personally will never be going by the oil life on the dash because it would have me changing it at over 7k miles. I just change it when it’s around 4k at a convenient time. I’m actually going to do it soon at just under 3k miles due to time. I have only put like 2,700 mi on since I last changed it dec 31st 2024! Between my little around town car that gets 40mpg and my motorcycle I just didn’t drive my truck a ton. but I do want to do it while it’s still a bit warm out. My other vehicles I can change the oil inside the garage with the door closed but not the truck.

Would you run a filter for 2 oci if changing that often? Seems totally fine to do. I’ve considered it. My truck rarely tows but only runs about 5k a year. Whatdya think?

I’ve run M1 and super tech in my truck without any oil burning. I’ve been changing it roughly every 4k because I don’t drive it that much. It’s a 22 and just hit 16k miles. I bought it with 7mi on it.

Dealing with weird registration fees is the least of your worries living in MN. Believe me, I lived there for many years. Luckily I got out when it just started going down hill. It’s really bad no in the twin cities.

Welcome back to the site Jett

I have heard Canada is like that. Here in the states, the owner can do their own maintenance. Keeping your receipts just in case is the best idea.

How would I check if my wt has that? Hopefully not I don’t like options.

Yes. Mine needed both leaf packs replaced. No it’s been good. The shims didn’t last but a couple months.

They used to be my go to. Then their head got too big and basically doubled the price so I looked elsewhere.

The fram ultra is a great filter. I run that on other vehicles I own without issue. But the new endurance is actually a step up. And is taller. The xg ultra for the truck is a lower profile filter and shorter than the acdelco pf63 so I found that odd. But the new fram endurance is the same height as the pf63. The xg was 10.00 and it was 12.00 for the endurance. both of the aforementioned filters are worlds better than the orange can fram with paper ends. That’s junk.

Amsoil is in my trucks rear diff and I run it in my bike and atv. Good stuff.