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captadamnj

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About captadamnj

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  1. I know this is a half ton forum, but I think my HD experience is still relevant. Drove truck home from dealer and one of my teens actually suggested GM had "upgraded" to a solid front axle in the front. Umm, no. Actually stopped and checked rear tire pressure, not surprisingly was at 80 coming off the lot. Dropped it to 55...and brought the front down to the same, and ride was significantly improved. Changed factory (non Z71 package) stocks to 5100's at 5k. This improved handling and comfort on non-ideal road conditions...back roads and the like. Not talking about off-roading here, talking about 35-45 mph roads that aren't highway cared for. IMO, my 3500 rides as well as any full size pickup (half ton or HD) I've been in, driver or passenger. Probably some bias there, and there is probably some metric that can be applied to prove I'm wrong, but I think my perception conveys my satisfaction level with ride improvement via decreased psi and change in shocks. When the truck gets worked, tires simply get aired up. I'm sure it could get even better with more expensive improvements, but this was very reasonable $$-wise. If you value ride quality, definitely pay attention to tire psi, probably not the exact number, but more as a ratio of max load psi of the tire you are running.
  2. Sorry for your bad luck on that one...had this one for almost 3 years now without incident, maybe it depends on which of the "clones" one buys...definitely a lot of similar ones out there.
  3. Just double checked...124j is current version - https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1152/UI%20Bulletin%20124j.pdf
  4. I am using a clone of this - https://www.amazon.com/KNGUVTH-Universal-Adjustable-Cup-Holder-Compatible/dp/B07TMB3HLZ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3ICY397A0P7X2&keywords=cup+holder+phone+mount&qid=1569271975&s=wireless&sprefix=cup+ho%2Cmobile%2C156&sr=1-7 Many available. Flexible with regards to size of device it can hold, easy in/easy out, plus options to change what accessory goes on the gooseneck if you need something other than the cell phone holder. And reasonably priced. Installed -
  5. Meant to add that if you decide to try LED's, there is a thread on here I believe about using the V.4 LEDs also available through the above vendor...and some have suggested you could buy the same bulb for half the price elsewhere without the V.4 label.
  6. Multiple good reviews on the board from GTR bulb/ballast sets from headlightrevolution.com...their full kit uses some Morimoto components.
  7. Dealer will re-program...but not sure how low they will go at your request. All you can do is ask.
  8. This thread looks relevant to T1 trucks, not K2...maybe needs to be moved by mods...
  9. You can open the sunglasses holder and then gently but firmly pull down on the trim to access the connector that needs to be plugged in and find the blunt cut power lead...you will need to provide ground.
  10. Most likely that is the alternator harness needed to prevent your dash from going out when the plow motor runs as per GM Upfitter Bulletin 124 (I believe h is the current version) - https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/901/UI Bulletin 124h.pdf You can install yourself or take to a dealer, they will install at no charge.
  11. Can enter the cab from parking brake grommet under driver side foot well, or run wire into engine compartment and come in through grommet with the rest of the wiring harness on the driver side, many posts on that. Have done it both ways, if using the parking brake option before to seal up good. Good luck!
  12. My thoughts on 5100's over stock (NOT Z71/Ranchos) after changing to the front/rear Bilsteins after 6k miles...under normal driving conditions on well cared for roads, improvement was not noticed, perhaps ride was even just a bit stiffer (but not bad). However, on sections of bumpier less cared for roads, there were times where my stock shocks left me feeling "thrown around". None of that with the Bilsteins, firmly under control under those conditions and well worth it. If you are 90% highway driving, probably wouldn't be worth it. But if 25%-30% plus of your time is not driving under ideal pavement conditions, then a good investment IMO.
  13. Answered my own question about using a blank stationary switch in place of a momentary switch. The cover itself is what makes the switch stationary. It is oversized on the back and on the bottom to limit movement. I was, however, able to trim it down and make it work just like any other momentary switch. Took me about a half hour with a file, go slow so you don't take too much material. The bottom is pretty easy, the back takes a bit more patience to make sure you take off enough to allow full activation of the button without taking too much in which case you will loose contact with the button. Here are the switches after removal...the stationary switch is on the right. Both a view from the bottom and side are shown. The yellow outline shows where to remove material, but it is pretty self evident. And here is a side pic with the two switches after the material has been removed...hard to tell the difference! (What was the fixed switch is now on the left and now functions identically to other one way momentary switches.)
  14. Yeah...one side reads left to right...the other right to left...
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