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captadamnj

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About captadamnj

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  1. Answered my own question about using a blank stationary switch in place of a momentary switch. The cover itself is what makes the switch stationary. It is oversized on the back and on the bottom to limit movement. I was, however, able to trim it down and make it work just like any other momentary switch. Took me about a half hour with a file, go slow so you don't take too much material. The bottom is pretty easy, the back takes a bit more patience to make sure you take off enough to allow full activation of the button without taking too much in which case you will loose contact with the button. Here are the switches after removal...the stationary switch is on the right. Both a view from the bottom and side are shown. The yellow outline shows where to remove material, but it is pretty self evident. And here is a side pic with the two switches after the material has been removed...hard to tell the difference! (What was the fixed switch is now on the left and now functions identically to other one way momentary switches.)
  2. Yeah...one side reads left to right...the other right to left...
  3. Interested in using a switch with Hill Descent Control position as a momentary switch. My truck does not have Hill Descent Control as a feature currently, but there are wires in positions 3 and 4 of my S48A X1 connector. If I remove the wire from position 4 and tape it up, should I have any concern about that having impact on operation of the vehicle? I would then insert a pigtail into position 4 and use that as momentary lead. Also, for those that have opened up the guts of switches, is it possible to replace the Hill Descent Control switch from a TC/CL/HDC/Aux1/Aux2/Aux3/Aux4 panel with a blank switch from the TC/CL/Aux1/Aux2/Aux3/Aux4 panel and HAVE THE BLANK SWITCH NOT BE FIXED...i.e. have the same capabilities for triggering the momentary circuit but have the switch itself be unlabeled?
  4. Yes, correct. cfields and crazyjoker have some good posts on p.17 about how to use just the switches with your own relays.
  5. After reading through this thread numerous times, I put the following together to help me understand what was needed for a factory-like install on my 2019 3500HD. Note that the Body Builder Manual referenced below MAY NOT APPLY TO YOUR VEHICLE. However, many of the posts in this thread from owners of different 2014-2018 1500's and 2015-2019 HD's suggest the Aux switch circuits are nearly the same if not identical across these models and years. The information is provided for USE AT YOUR OWN DISCRETION. Wiring Schematic1,2 Trigger Trigger Output Output3 S48A X61A X61A X50A X50A X61A X61A Aux 14,5 X1 - 12 X5 - 10 X1 - 21 X3 - M5 X3 - M7 X1 - 16 X76 - 20 Aux 24,5 X1 - 13 X5 - 17 X1 - 34 X3 - F3 X4 - G2 X1 - 31 X76 - 14 Aux 34,5 X1 - 11 X5 - 11 X1 - 30 X4 - L6 X4 - K5 X1 - 35 X76 - 4 Aux 44,5 X1 - 10 X5 - 23 X1 - 38 X4 - L1 X4 - K2 X1 - 48 X76 - 1 Lead 13575783 19301767 19301767 19301767 19301761 19301761 13575832 1 See GM Upfitter Bulletin #110L, Figure 11 2 See GM Upfitter Body Builder Manual, 5-137-140, 5-170-171, 5-178-179, 5-654 3 See GM Upfitter Bulletin #115f 4 Trigger colors (Body Builder Manual) – Aux 1, RD/WH; Aux 2, YE/WH; Aux 3, GN/GY; Aux 4, WH/BU 5 Output colors (Body Builder Manual) – Aux 1, BU; Aux 2, GY/BK; Aux 3, L-YE/BN; Aux 4, RD/GN 6 Connector X7 needs to be purchased as part number 19328970 as per Bulletin 115f A factory-like install can be accomplished by purchasing the GM "Leads", with the part numbers listed above. One end of the wire will have a terminal that will go into the connector, the other end will be a pigtail that will be connected to the lead from the other connector, or may require you to lengthen the connection in order to reach the other Lead. One advantage of the factory install is that you will have flexibility with how the switches operate as per Bulletin 110f by rearranging fuses in the X50A block. Note that the colors listed above are not the actual color of the leads, they are just what the colors the wires would be if the Aux switches were installed from the factory, and I note them here for easier reference when reading the pages listed in the Body Builder Manual; they are also noted in posts earlier in this thread. Note that as per Bulletin 115f, the X61A junction block X7 connector will not be installed, you will need to purchase it as part number 19328970. Here is an example build for Aux 1. This assumes you have a switch panel and the correct X50A fuse block with factory relays and fuses. 1) Insert the terminal end of lead 13575783 in to the S48A switch connector X1 in position 12. 2) Insert the terminal end of lead 19301767 in to the X61A junction block connector X5 in position 10. 3) Route the above wires behind the dash and connect the pigtail ends together with a butt splice or other connection method. If the pigtails do not reach, lengthen one of the leads with 20 gauge wire so they do reach. 4) Insert the terminal end of lead 19301767 in to the X61A junction block connector X1 in position 21. 5) Insert the terminal end of lead 19301767 in to the X50A fuse block connector X3 in position M5. 6) Route the above wires through the firewall and connect the pigtail ends together with a butt splice or other connection method. If the pigtails do not reach, lengthen one of the leads with 20 gauge wire so they do reach. 7) Insert the terminal end of lead 19301761 in to the X50A fuse block connector X3 in position M7. 8) Insert the terminal end of lead 19301761 in to the X61A junction block connector X1 in position 16. 9) Route the above wires through the firewall and connect the pigtail ends together with a butt splice or other connection method. If the pigtails do not reach, lengthen one of the leads with 14 gauge wire so they do reach. 10) Insert the terminal end of lead 13575832 in to the X61A junction block connector X7 in position 20. You now have output on a 30 amp circuit when Aux 1 is turned on. You would repeat the above for the additional Aux switch circuits. To try to tie together some other loose ends from this thread - 1) If you don't want to pay the $$$ for the GM provided leads, TinkeringFox provided part numbers for the terminals themselves back on p.15; that info can be used to make your own leads/wires between the switch/junction block/fuse block. 2) If you don't have the correct X50A fuse block, or want to create your own fuse block but use the switches, you can stop after step 1 above and then follow some of the posts for "making your own fuse box" in this thread. The switches are then used as negative triggers on your own relays. 3) If you have the correct X50A fuse block and you want power in the engine compartment instead of in the cab coming out of the X61A junction box, you can stop after step 7 above, and use the lead coming out of the X50A fuse block to power your loads. 3a) Furthermore, as TinkeringFox pointed out, you can skip the X61A junction box completely. In that case, you can skip steps 2, 3 and 4 and wire direct from the S48A X1 to the X50A. For Aux 1, that would mean a connection from S48A X1 connector in position 12 directly to X50A X3 connector in position M5. 4) There are at least 2 sellers on ebay that offer the X61A junction block X7 connector pre-wired and in various configurations. I have no connection to these sellers, but they include dardz2015 and mcasnow. 5) If you reconfigure your S48A switches, use the information posted elsewhere in this thread in conjunction with the referenced Body Builder Manual to determine the correct position to use in the S48A X1 connector.
  6. Finally, here are pics of the console installed and in use. I added the OCD dividers for the bottom of the console and the OCD tray for the top. I left out the middle divider to allow room for some larger items (CDs/DVDs fit great for those who still have some) and I found the OCD tray was more to my liking vs the factory tray as it did not extend down as far and was also wide enough front-to-back so as to fit securely without sliding front to back. Also installed is one of the inexpensive "hidden compartment covers" seen in front of the drink holders. And as you can see, the rear of the console is perfect for 4 20 oz water bottles! Hopefully some of the pics/ideas I've shared can help someone else. Many thanks again to Phil, and everyone else that contributed with helpful posts in this thread!
  7. Removal of the jump seat and getting the new console in to place took under 2 hours, could probably be done in less with no refreshment breaks. Pretty straightforward job, and I DID NOT have to remove the passenger seat, I found it easiest to remove the existing cables from under the passenger seat with the seat in the fully forward position. The new console came with the bracket that attaches to the dash, so I did have to remove the trim bezel around the radio, the radio and the switches under the radio to get installed. Go slow on the trim, I highly recommend a urethane trim removal tool set, they are cheap enough and non-marring. Pulling the glove box was easy enough, as well. I did not have to remove the HMI to unplug the existing cable and plug in the new one, your mileage will vary based on hand size. (It does come out easy enough though, a gentle tug.) I then spent about another 30-45 minutes running the cables, making them look tidy, snapping the top of the console back together, and testing out all the ports. With the prep work on the cables, I had 3 full hours invested, worth every minute. Here are some pics of the USB cable running from the HMI to the console behind the glove box. This first one shows the HMI top right, the cable I ran snakes under the yellow connector at left and up to the HMI. I wire tied it to another cable up and out of the way of the glove box. Here is a close up, my USB cable is the lower of the two, it shows the quality of the split loom compared to factory. And here is a picture of under the dash with the top trim of the console loose. The USB from the HMI is top center, and Phil's cables with the other USB cable is shown on the bottom. The other two cables are the factory 12V and inverter wires. No concerns about any wires chafing when done properly.
  8. Got Phil ordering specifics and payment right before he left earlier in June, and he was true to his word with the console getting to me while he was away and the harness getting to me shortly after his return. Waiting stinks, but Phil was straight up about when I would get things, and everything came when and how he said it would. I went ahead and ordered the GM USB cable that IS available still (19119050) which goes from the HMI to the console USB. Since 19303285/84022323 which conncts the USB ports on the console to each other remains unobtanium, I went with Phil's suggestion to get the cable from Amazon, and with some trimming, it fit great. Note that each end of the cable should be trimmed differently if you want optimal fit. I looked at the connectors into which the ends would go, and slowly removed material until I got as close to perfect fit as I could, so much so that the cables make a firm *snap* when fully seated. I also picked up some sleeving to protect the USB cables and to match the fine work Phil does with his cables. Here is the sleeving I used, one of the ends trimmed to fit, and the "finished product" of the USB cables ready to install.
  9. Huge thanks to @pgamboa...this is a tremendous upgrade. I recently purchased a '19 3500HD with a crew cab. Factory stopped taking orders end of February on these, and the last of them came off the line in May as the factory gears up for the new body style production. In early spring I was limiting my search to LT trucks that came from the factory with the console which was pretty limiting. Once Phil was offering the entire package, that widened up my search considerably. Wound up with this beauty for 20% off sticker, then got to work, installing Husky mud flaps and the OEM 4" assist tube steps while waiting on the console and harness.
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