The 6.0 in the 2500 is a pretty solid performer, no lie. But the 5.3 is as stable an engine as any. Previous gen trucks had an issue with the AFM but they seem to be sorted at this point. To be fair I tuned mine out, so you can always tune or replace with non AFM parts if you're that concerned. I can't speak to the 8speed, seems like there was a handful of issues with hard shifts and looking for gears. My guess would be they have mostly solved this by now since it seems like a tuning thing. YMMV though. If I could do it all over again I'd prob go 2500 so I got the longer bed and beefier axels but that's mainly around my desire to run 37s+, not for any practical application. To be honest with you, if the Toyota was either on par from an interior perspective, boxed frame, etc. or cheaper, I would probably have gone with that. Just a hard pill to swallow with getting neither.
Before I bought my truck I thought it was going to be a Tundra. I went in with the expectation that it was going to be lower cost, without as many bells and whistles, and bulletproof reliability. When I drove it I was less than impressed, even coming from a lifted jeep. Now, I think you could argue for or against the Tundra depending on what your priorities are. Here is how I see it: GM Nice interior Great MPG in the V8 options Seriously good discounts Fully boxed frame Quieter in the cabin Feels more planted while driving TOYOTA TRD pro model looks sexy Reliability maybe? (JD power ranks Tundra 10-10 and Silverado gets 9-10) To me, Toyota seems to be where the big 3 were in the early 00s. Back then Toyota was a great option for a low cost, reliable option. Not as many fancy options but a quality product. Today, in my eyes at least, Toyota is relying on their perceived reliability. Their engines may be bulletproof but from my experience they rattle like a hobo with a tin can after a short time and their interior looks pretty poor. At the end of the day you've got to put on quite a few miles for reliability to even matter, where as the rattle is almost instant.
I can agree in general but I think I need to find the right balance between everything. I think there is definitely value in getting everything professionally installed, but on the flip side I don't know if it's $800 of value. I guess time will tell me.
I've been digging through this and a few others as I look to do this mod. Haven't ever wired additional stuff to a truck so this world is new to me. My truck is a 2016 Sierra SLE. I've currently got two switches, TC and bed lights. I'm looking to upgrade to switch bank #23145158. When I popped my box I see the below: (rotated 90° counter-clockwise, so the bottom right is actually the bottom left of the box. Said another way this should be terminal 1 assuming that terminal 1 is the most bottom left terminal) Looking at the GM upfitter bulliten (https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/604/UI Bulletin_110h.pdf) it seems that I need #1, 4, 14, 20: So, if I'm following this correctly. I buy the new bank, which is plug and play, then run my wires to the battery (red and black to red and black) and run my output wire (prob blue) to pin 1, 4, 14, or 20 (depending on which switch I want to operate which set of lights). I'm gonna need to install some sort of fuse block for a more clean install. Still debating if I want to run a second battery but for the time being I can run this and upgrade to a second battery later if this ever becomes a problem. Can someone correct me if I'm wrong here, noobie and all. Much appreciate the help!
I don't think you're going to find any pictures of lifted trucks with those stock wheels. I generally see people keep the snowflake wheels but none of the others. You can check out https://customwheeloffset.com, they have a gallery with a bunch of trucks, but again don't expect much.
Yeah, this whole world is new to me. I've never upgraded any car audio and although I think I've got a good ear I couldn't tell you the first thing about most setups. That alone may be a reason I should get a pro to install everything once I've decided on components, however I'm always interested in learning and I do enjoy the DIY. It's raining here today so would have made for a good day to get out and check out systems, sadly it seems that every car audio place is closed on Sunday. Too bad.
I think I'm conflating two things. I had thought that since the gain does change the bass output people were using a second knob to function as gain. Upon further reading I'm seeing that the bass knob is actually a second thing that simply adjusts the volume of the bass and doesn't affect the gain. Sorry for the confusion, that was on my end. Still trying to piece together all the parts here.
Understood, but changing the output voltage also changes the volume right? I have heard conflicting stories here. Some say that you set the gain then don't touch it, others keep the knob easily accessible to adjust.
For anyone interested in following along, went to my first car audio place this evening after work. Listened to Focal (Focal Performance 165AS) and Alpine (R line). The Alpines sounded like absolute trash. I asked if they were hooked up right and if it was the head unit or fact we were listening to music over bluetooth from my phone. Guy said no, they just sound like that. They were markably worse than OEM non-bose truck speakers. I don't know if I believe the guy, really seems like a bait-and-switch tactic where you listen to the Alpines that are $200 then he hits you with the Focal that are $320. Unsure at this point. Regardless, I would be out the door with the Focal performance line speakers, front and rear, Alpine type-r (SBR-S8-4) sub with box, Alpine amp (not sure which model, said it was 6 channel) and some DSP that is not a full DSP but acts like one that is supposed to be amazing for $200. Out the door price with install and tuning $2500. I don't know what the expected price is, but hoping I can get by with cheaper than that. Gonna check a few more places and see what I'm looking at. One thing that he said that raised a bit of a red flag. He said he adds a gain knob under the steering wheel so you can adjust the sub volume. From what I had seen on a few youtube videos you shouldn't adjust the gain knob after you've tuned the system. Anyone have info on this for definitive yes/no?
Oop, sorry missed that part. Haven't done that yet, so unsure. Only removed the grille which was fairly straightforward and you can find youtube videos for. Just here to cause issues apparently
@Grinnen I don't know your experience with it but I had used it on the front of my Audi and rims and it was a terrible mistake. I could never get it clean, it always snagged dirt and started to tinge brown over time. YMMV but my experience has been poor. A better thing I've come across is to plasti-dip THEN paint. You can get a halfway decent rattlecan or spray and then it's a non perm mod if that is your concern. Outside that if you're just trying to blackout I'd recommend powdercoating since it will last over the chrome unlike paint (unless you are able to really sand it down).
Ok, thanks for the info peeps. My next steps here: Check out a local car audio place or two and listen to some speakers. Checkout a best buy and do the same. Decide on brand/setup DIY or have a pro do it A few things I've heard so far after poking around on youtube and talking to a few places. The "behind the seats/under the pass seat" is going to be hard. The sub just needs the space so that slim space is going to be a challenge. I really wish I could listen to both a single under seat sub and a slim sub in vehicle to compare and contrast. One thing I was not expecting was just how high you can get with this stuff. Dynamating the whole truck, adding multiple subs, custom enclosures, amps, better wiring, etc. Sky is really the limit on price here. I didn't realize just how much you could spend here.
@Grinnen Thats a good idea but honestly with the hours I work my free time is very limited on the weekend after house work so I'd rather just pay for new than have to find matching working sets and then make sure they are still in good condition etc. Some of the lower end JBL speakers look like they fit my truck and pricepoint. The sub is looking like it will be the problem here. I really like my under seat storage box and don't want to lose it. I guess I could cut away the 1/3rd side and mount a sub there. That will be my last ditch solution. I also saw a custom Alpine box for under the center console, which I don't currently have. That would be solid but it's going to put my cost prob another 2k higher all said and done and I don't really want to do that extra I don't think. Although it would give me somewhere to mount my VHF radio and amp as well, which is nice.
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