You're dead on. I tried getting that info from BDS but they had me contact a installer. I was told I need new blocks for the rear, sway bar links and struts. Installed its $900-1000, 3-4 hours of work, which seems insane. Struts are max $300 for the pair, Sway bars are what $80? rear blocks like $60? I can't imagine it takes 4 hours to swap struts and such once it's on the lift. Maybe I'm just too cheap, just very surprised by that. At that point I may as well swap in some better struts for a better ride, which means more.
Currently running a BDS 6" suspension. I had planned to run 37s and still sort of want to but honestly at this point I feel that 35s are more than enough and the less of a jump into the cab wouldn't be terrible, same with 2" lower for bed access. (I'm only 30 but god I feel like I'm getting old) Anyway, I had done a bunch of research prior to my lift install but apparently not enough. From what I'm reading the 6" BDS kit is same as their 4" with larger knuckles, so the diff drop remains the same, which means if I swapped to 4" I'd have better angles for longevity. I'm imagining this will also help with the harsh ride a little since the axels will be level and it will be a tiny bit lower for the wind. Curious to get some opinions. If I was going to start over again I'll be honest I wouldn't go with BDS as I'm not a huge fan of the track width widening out which makes parking lots a pain but I also feel like the cost to swap knuckles and a few other parts would be far cheaper than swapping to a different lift kit. Open to all sorts of feedback here. I'm planning on putting some money into the girl this summer as I just got her paid off. I'm wanting to keep her "forever" so that's a top of mind thing for me.
Not sure what a stall is? What size tires you running and lifted? Still gonna be a long while before I do that but I'm still leaning blower at the moment. At the point that I put a blower in it then it no longer is a commuter/single vehicle but rather a fun/weekend rig and the MPG is all but worthless. Now if only they made larger gas tanks…
I've got tune, CAI, exhaust, looking into headers. I don't want to use e85 as it's hard to get around me and I like being able to throw in premium and go. I may look into a blower in the future, but honestly I'm unsure about reliability on it. I should have just gone with the 6.2 or a 2500 since I wanted to roll large tires like a child. Still leagues more comfortable and faster than my old wrangler though. I think my next steps are gears, headers and blower (maybe), in that order. I'm only going to go blower if I don't daily it anymore.
They look great and drive awesome. I don't know that I'll own one but hey. We are getting ready to start shortly here so it was a must for us. I keep some wood stakes in the back for shooting but normally use them to fish stuff out. Gonna just tie a rope to the front and pull/push with that.
Fixed that for you ;) But agreed. I ended up with a Diamondback cover as I felt at the time it was a solid compromise between cost/durability/safety. I haul some expensive guns including NFA items that would be expensive/impossible to replace without a long wait and lot of quality time talking to feds. I'd rather not deal with that and didn't want to spring for a truckvault + cap. I also wanted the ability to carry tall loads, but at this point I haven't pulled the diamondback off. I do wish I had the full kit with the truckvault+cargoglide+cap but the cost was insane.
My understanding that a higher gear number means better transfer of power on the lower gears and getting into top gear faster, which means top gear will run at a higher RPM on highway driving, which means lower MPG during highway but better city MPG. Is this thinking not correct? I don't see how it can better both your city and highway MPG considering you're changing a single gear. Same as a cam you're favoring top end or torque but not both. I'm no mechanic so this area is new to me and I very well could be wrong but I don't understand how changing your final gear ratio for more get up and go could possibly increase your highway MPG. I suppose you could up your city MPG without effecting your highway milage in a very measurable way considering the OD gear is so tall?
A whole month! If they didn't try and absolutely f*$k you on the price I'd be down to pay. $3-4 a month seems fair. I'd pay $5 if they let me set my heating/cooling from the phone. Nope, I'll stick with the key that was "free".
Agreed with you @Nitrousbird on most of the points. I was pretty set on the tundra before ever driving anything. I figured I'd drive the Tundra first, then a few others just to confirm and buy the Tundra. I was blown away at the price compared to the others. The cost is high and considering the age of the trucks, lack of interior polish, I was even more shocked. I know everyone screams about Toyota quality but I owned that scion coupe back in the day and wasn't at all impressed. Frankly Toyota today reminds me where GM/Ford were in the 90s. Relying on past wins to drive future purchases. The Tundra is still using a unboxed "c" frame, and it's MPG is garbage. Really surprising to be honest. I do like the previous gen Ram. Frankly if it wasn't for the dial I may have ended up with that. I didn't even test drive it because of that stupid dial.
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