Penguin VII started following Major Problems With Brakes - 2016 Sierra 3500HD, Lifted single cab 10”+, Breaking News - UAW and GM Reach Tentative Agreement and and 4 others
Sadly you just don't see as many single cabs anymore, lifted or otherwise. You can checkout customoffsets gallery as they have a bunch of info and photos. Otherwise google images or whatever you hear here.
I believe there are a lot of those companies (like rocky ridge and such) that work with rough country or similar to come out with spacer kits that are unbranded. You almost never see a truck with BDS, CST, Icon, etc. on the dealer lots because the dealers don't install quality kits and the guys that do know better than to sell to a dealer.
I wouldn't be either if I was forced to go on strike and get paid $250 a week by a union that I'm paying $100 a month to already so they can tell me I'm welcome to go back to a job that hasn't changed and that I get no additional benefit from. It seems very clear to me that unions had their time and sad to say but automation is steadily replacing all these jobs. All unions do now is inflate the price of labor. If there were no union than every auto manufacture would surely lower their wages, which would result in people leaving and/or not caring about the work, which would lead to poor QA (which lets face it GM doesn't need any more of) which would then lead to GM folding or smartening up and paying higher wages for more skilled labor. I feel worst for kids that are just starting work at these companies that are moving as quickly as possible to automate, they are the ones that will feel this the most as their jobs are cut halfway through their career and they are left with few options outside of learning a trade or going back to college. Rant over.
Assuming it's a preowned truck, hence the concern about tread life. I don't have the magneride but I do have a 6" BDS lift on my truck. It's going to ride much firmer than stock. Tires at that size are going to be harder to keep balanced, especially if you do any off roading, even light trails seem to make them so they are not balanced anymore. Getting in/out is harder without steps (looks like this denali has the automated steps) and loading stuff into the bed is annoying more so that stock. It's not the end of the world, I think they look great but know what you're getting into. Edit: One thing I forgot to add. Def get the brand of the lift. Check for level on the front. Cheaper lifts tend to screw the angles. You want everything flat as possible.
Time definitely changes and brands ebb and flow. A ton of auto manufactures went through the same thing until eventually being killed off. Crazy how times changes things. I appreciate that info and I'll definitely look into some, but that said it's hard to justify the cost. From what I've seen I'm looking at more similar to 10x the price, not 2x. I prob need to spend more time looking and comparing the different brands you recommend, that said I don't use them enough that I can justify combing around ebay or pawn shops to try and find a quality used x and then figuring how I get it replaced.
From my understanding they (Lowes) will exchange Craftsman tools but only if bought at their store. Which frankly I think is BS, but hey. Since you're calling them "Crapsman" I'm assuming you aren't a fan of the quality. I've got a nice mechanics set and they seem fine. If they aren't good what brand would you recommend and why?
I've been using a bottle jack since I started lifting trucks/jeeps. Never had an issue. Can someone tell me why I shouldn't be using a bottle jack? Also, if anyone has any recommendation for jacking up a lifted truck without a lift that would be awesome. I'm currently just jacking via the front diff support bar and the rear diff. I know it's not great but it's the only location I can use with as high up as the frame is.
As true as that may be the raptor is still crushing sales. GM is going to have to do a lot better than custom shocks and a few stickers if it wants to seriously compete. Widebody and custom bumpers seem like a requirement in the looks department.
I started to replace my rotors and pads with upgrades from EBC. As with everything it didn't go smoothly. I struggled to find the brake pad clips in stock at any local parts store. Of course no one had ACDelco in stock so that left me with some aftermarket option (brake best). I should have just waited and bought some OEM clips and boots but I was too eager to get this wrapped up. The metal clips fit nicely, although didn't seem to have as firm a grip as the OEM ones, I didn't pay it too much mind but once I put the pads in I couldn't get the pads to not tough the rotors, I messed around with the clips themselves and obviously they are the most cheap metal possible, there is zero spring to them so if I left them as is they would almost surely squeak and wear prematurely. So now I've got to try and get some OEM boots and clips Monday to try and wrap this up. Word to the wise, don't use brake best if you undertake this, they are crap product. Hard to tell but the right pad has almost full contact with the rotor. On the plus side everything is lining up well They also look pretty nice, enjoy the black, even if they are pretty small for the wheel size (20") Also, ignore the missing hub, I just threw the wheel back on until tomorrow.
Brake pads didn't come with anything but the pad and some stickers, yay.
Hey all, I've looked around online and haven't seen either way on this. I saw some companies that sell brake pad/rotor/repair info saying you should swap the clips when you swap the pads and rotors, others say just clean and reuse as long as there isn't any noticeable damage to it. I just got new pads and rotors and want to throw them on tonight but want to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong here, sure its a cheap enough part but it it's not needed then why spend the money? If it will prevent squeaks or something then I'll drop the cash, but end of the day I'm more interested in performance. EBC slotted rotors and green stuff pads for anyone interested.
I'd talk to GM and threaten legal action. Assuming you have the history of the repairs (if not get that first) you should be able to easily get this covered. Get your data together, contact GM and give them one last opportunity, tell them you don't want to find legal representation but you will, make sure to state you have the documentation to back it up. Talk to a lawyer, most likely you will get it covered.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 138 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,120 Guests (See full list)
- GMC Sierra 34
- Frank DeVoe
- Jammin James
- patrick taylor
- HK GUY
- Tony jack
- Jay P
- Frank Orris
- oak 1971
- Richard Grounds
- D animal
- Slash L86
- H-town Silver Bullet
- BO TIE 1
- Chris Callanan
- MTU Alum
- RAYS B4U
- Matt Douzart
- Trevor Holm
- Assault Offroad