Penguin VII started following 2014+ Suspension Lifts, Just goes to show you that you don’t always get what you pay for. Thousands later and everything leaked....., bds lift and and 4 others
What do you mean everything leaked?
I didn't even think about the tires. I just did but it's a little hard to tell since there is a fair amount of space between treads. I did look and it looks like there may be come cupping going on. I may need yet another alignment. Thanks man, I think that may be the issue.
Hey guys, I hope I'm not double posting but I couldn't find anything about this via search. I replaced my rotors and pads on the front late last year before the snow hit. I'd noticed after a bit that I was starting to get a "humming" noise from the front at 50+ mph. I can hear it and very lightly feel it in the gas pedal (so I think, could be my mind). It sounds like this (best try): 2.5-3 seconds nothing 2.5-3 seconds humming 2.5-3 seconds nothing 2.5-3 seconds humming It sort of feels like something is dragging/rubbing. I'll drive on the highway for an hour and then get out and touch the brakes to see if the rotors are hot, and don't notice anything. There doesn't seem to be an issue with the pads wearing, and I used quality parts here, EDC green stuff and EDC slotted rotors. A few questions: I made the assumption that this was related to the brake-pad/rotor swap since that's when I noticed it. If the rotors aren't hot and the pads look ok what else could it be there? Could this noise be coming from the slotted rotors? If so why isn't it a constant hum? What else could be giving this humming? Could this be related to my lift? Wheel bearings on the way out? Some things about my truck: 1500 4x4 (electric switch) 6" BDS lift 35" toyo rt tires
Sorry, I was meaning an option for the rough country version. Prob wouldn't be too hard to make something.
I would 100% steer away from those units. Outside of the standard recommended head units (Alpine, Pioneer, etc.) I'd try and keep the stock. Those aftermarket units use (generally speaking) super cheap hardware that will continually slow down and the coding on them is generally pretty poor. YMMV and all that but I'd never put one of those units in my truck.
That rough country winch looks great, I wish there was a flip down/up license plate bracket for those of us in places where it's required.
Nothing new but changed my phone holder so that it doesn't cover any of the screen from the drivers side and routed the cable into the top glove compartment so the cable is hidden. The cable currently just hangs which isn't a big deal since I always plug my phone in, but I might try and make/find a 3d printed piece that holds the base of the plug under the phone so it stays in place. Depends on how I'm feeling after a bit.
I contacted the guys at fiberwerx, they just got back to me saying that it's possible but I may need some extra supports. I'm not sure the general install process for these so I might have to try and find someone that has done this before. My primary concern was figuring out if the weight on top of the fiberglass/carbon fiber would crack it.
I'm curious to know if anyone is running fiberglass or carbon fiber fenders and also happens to be running a tonneau cover or cap. I'm looking at making some changes to my truck and in the good ole "live free or die" state we have some strict rules on wheels sticking past the body. I'm currently running line-xed flares but I just can't stand the look. I'm thinking about doing some fiberglass or carbon fiber fenders and dropping down to a 4" lift. Should be easily able to clear 37s. With all that said, I have to maintain the ability to keep my bed covered. I'd love to keep the diamondback or run a cap, but I want to make sure the bed has the strength for it, especially if I load stuff on-top of the diamondback. No idea if I'll follow through with this, as the cost is huge for these changes, but I'm interested in knowing if it's even possible.
There are some oddly hostile comments on this. Get a grip guys, even if the gym has a shower I prefer to drive home and shower. I'd rather sit stinky for an extra 15 mins and have my own private shower where I don't have to wear flops or see some old guys junk personally. As for your question OP, I've had this issue in the past and I think a few people have given good recommendations, here is what I've done: Carry a large towel or beach towel with you and drape the seat after a workout. Just remember to wash it every few sessions. Just sit on the cloth and hit it with febreze every once in a while, seemed to work for me in the past but didn't do it long term. Bite the bullet and get some seat covers. You can get nice custom fitted ones in a variety of styles and material. I've got some cordura ones that are pretty water resistant in case something is spilled. I take them out and clean them maybe once a year? Neoprene is another option but remember they can easily burn if you happen to get cig/cigar embers on them.
You have to replace the whole front clip. The lower part of the grille on the 16+ is angles, where as the 14-15 has a more rectangle look. I think you would have to replace the upper valance at least, possibly the bumper as well.
I've been back and forth on doing these. I like the idea of tossing all my straps and such in them, but there are some larger items I want to keep (fire extinguisher, snow broom and shovel, etc.) that I think would work better mounted to the bed. I really like what Builtright offers but they are only on the Ford trucks at the moment. I've got one of the rear seat storage bins now, but I keep leaning towards putting a sub box back there.
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