samckitt

The ones that match the GM OEM connectors for the in bed lights? Did you just eyeball it & find it, or search table somewhere or....? Thx

How did you find the correct connectors on Mouser's website? I need one for the connector up by the center rear view mirror to tap into & get power for something.

Has anyone just painted over the OEM fender lights? Either disconnect the electrical connection, or hit it with higher voltage to burn out the LED....?

Adding to an old thread. Primed flares now $487 https://www.shopchevyparts.com/exterior/2020-sierra-2500-fender-flare-set-primed-and-ready-for-paint-front-and-rear-srw-set/84848537-p-92313790.html

I have it too. 2020 GMC Sierra 2500 AT4. Following

Well bummer, doesnt look like it is included.

OK Thanks. Truck isnt here yet. Bought it sight unseen this morning because there is so much demand for it & today last day of employee pricing. I will look for the info when available. What did you mean the truck doesn't pick up the signal well without "modification"? Thx

Are all of the 2500HD trucks equiped to monitor the trailer tire pressures, or is there something extra needed on the truck for it to work? I am looking at a 2021 2500HD AT4 that does not list this functionality. Thanks

Jdub289f, I have had the fluid flushed, torque converter replaced (back in '18) & had the "new" fluid flush done this past February. That flush worked great for about 200 miles. It didn't shudder, it shifted when I thought it should have, but after 200 miles it was back to the same ole thing, actually worse now that it was before last flush. Scot

I heard they are a real PITA to get off without breaking the little mounting clips.

Does anyone know..... On my 03 Silverado, if I lock the truck with the keyfob, and a door is still open, I will hear a chime, but doesn't lock until about 7 seconds after all doors are shut. Works with the lock button on the door too. On my 18 Sierra, it only works on the door switch. If I lock with the remote, it is immediate, regardless if a door is open or all closed. Anyway to set the Sierra to be like the Silverado in that there is a delay from the keyfob as well?

Have been fighting a shudder with this truck, it has 15k miles on it & has been in the shop a few times for it (still under warranty). What I feel, almost feels like a miss fire, but no check engine light. When driving at constant speed, occasionally I will feel something, like a random miss fire, and when slightly accelerating I feel it a lot, 10-12 times a second. Trans fluid was changed, nothing, changed torque converter, nothing, had it in last week for oil change & they changed the trans fluid again, said there was a new fluid out. For about 200 miles it felt different/better, (I was actually smiling driving it) it shifted when I felt it should, & didnt notice the shuddering. Now today on my way to work, it felt like it was back to the way it was before the last fluid change. Somewhere I read this transmission is a "learning transmission". Maybe they reset something while it was in the shop & now has "learned" how I drive & is trying to adjust for it....???? So my question, is it possible that this is something electronic/PCM causing the shuddering? If so, can this be turned off so it doesn't "learn" from me....?

When you say OEM 22s, is this GM 22" wheels, or the brand "OEM" replica wheels?

I didn't do proper research before buying these & found out the hard way, that Sierra blue is not the same as Silverado blue. So I have 4 door handles & 2 mirror caps in blue for sale if anyone is interested. $220 shipped.

I had my parts guy look up these part numbers, he gives me a break on price and said these parts are priced: $37.61, $40.32, $98.19 & $87.24. They cheaper anyplace else?

Have had mine back almost a week now. Paperwork says i had the latest programming, fluid and TC, yet i feel like it shifts worse now than before i dropped it off, and all they did was lube the rear leaf to stop the clunking.

Ah ok. I must have the latest at this point then. She also said my shuddering is from it switxhing from V4 to V8. I said no thats not it. It happens in V8, so i have to take it back in and let her hook it up to some computer when it happens to send to GM.

So they did nothing because mine already had this new fluid. It was in for torque xonvertwe swap back in june and they put this new fluid in it at that time. And to be honest, it feels worse now than it did before i took it in. I need to read what all they did to it. Dont know if they cleared the TCM and it jas to "relearn" my driving habbit.

Mine is in the shop today for another fluid change. I recently asked the service rep about this new fix coming out in 2019, she said she didnt know exactly what it was, but said something about a new fluid formula that GM will tell her to do first before this other fix coming out in '19. So that's getting done now. We will see what happens, not holding my breath.

I did that last night, & it deletes the radio station, but leaves an empty button on the main display. Favorite button quantity is set to automatic, would have thought it would have removed the empty ones. Thoughts? Thanks

Anyone know if there is a way to delete/remove a saved radio station (without assigning it something else to that button)?

This hard "clunk" feeling, i thought was during shifting gears. This morning, daughter was driving (I take her to school), and backing out of the drive, she gave it gas & let off & got the hard clunk. Reverse only has one gear right, so what is the clunk?

My paperwork says the used torque converter 24286975, 2018 5.3L

I read somewhere that they removed cooler line at radiator and squirted it in the line. There isnt much, 2 ounces.

I will take it back again, but have already had the flush done, & had torque converter replaced. Symptoms have not changed a bit, still shudder & hard downshifts are still there.