Rockrz

For one guy doing the work, putting in a trap door is better for me not hurting my back trying to lift one side of the truck bed. The trap door will be much easier and far more convenient for me than lifting the truck bed. .

Why? For the exact same reason we all buy insurance.... Just in case we ever need it. It's not like this would take a long time of cost a lot of money.

Sure it can be done in a way where it not only looks nice but also in a way where the strength of the bed floor is maintained. The qualified, improving high tech redneck can get 'er done!

KooL... That's what I was thinking was to make it professional looking and I already have a thick rubber bed mat that will cover it all up.

Lots of vehicles come with a trap door from the factory so this can be done without weakening the strength of the bed floor. Besides, I'm just one guy and I'm not quite strong enough to pull my truck's bed all by myself. No need to worry... it's not going to hurt anything. Lots of guys are doing this.

Just curious if anybody has cut an access panel in their truck bed for easy access to their fuel pump? I'm going to do this to my 07-13 Silverado to simplify installing a new fuel pump when the time comes (I'm going to keep this truck a long time, so I'll need a fuel pump eventually). I'll rivet in some flat steel on the under side around all side to bolt the panel to so the floor remains strong. I run a bed mat so it won't be visable once done. Here's a couple of Utube videos of guys doing this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHwElftEfyU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ohq9byG6c8

I'm wanting to get a quick dis-connect for my oil catch can line to connect to me driver's side valve cover (2009 Chevy 5.3L LS engine) But, I'm not exactly sure what quick dis-connect connector to buy or where to buy it. The first step should be knowing what size the barb is located on the rear of the valve cover If anybody know what size this barb is, and what quick dis-connect connector to buy, please let me know. It looks kinda like 3/8 to me but it may be metric sizing. See attached pic:

Yep, that was my first clue when all this became a thing... I noticed the big wigs were not worried about being compliant so it was easy to smell the scam in the air.

Er, what they failed to tell you is that.... for centuries, the earth has fluctuated between getting really hot then really cold, between lots of storms and then not too many storms, and heavy rains and then drought. Scientists used to talk about all this that happened longer before the industrial age ever got here and they have proof of all this... but now due to political pressure using weather as a means to bring forth globalism and the coming one world totalitarian leader, scientists are scared to speak the truth for fear of being cancelled. so called climate change is NOT man made and is a scam used to brainwash people into believing the false narrative that man is destroying the earth so man is evil and must be punished... while the elites continue flying around in their jets. That's the biggest way we know it's a scam because the elite's of the world aren't believing this for their own lives and they say nothing of the masive pollution brought for by Russia, India, and the country they worship... communist china! You can fool some of the people some of the time, but you'll never fool all of the people all of the time with scams such as politically motivated climate change.

NO, I would not buy any EV at all.... So called climate change is a scam and EV is one of the results of that scam.

But, most shop are afraid to alter wheels claiming it is a legal liability to do so. So, I need to find a shop that does wheel work and is experienced in doing this

Does anybody know where I can find a machine shop that does high quality work that has experience machining alloy wheels? I have a pretty simple job I’m needing done by a machine shop and it needs to be done right. I have a hub I can ship to them from a truck like mine so they’ll be able to see the exact amount of material to remove... I want to put some GM wheels (Hub Bore Size 78.1 mm) on my midsize truck (Hub Bore Size 100.3 mm) so the bore needs to be made 22.2 mm larger (both wheels have same bolt pattern, so that part is good to go). The machining only needs to be 1/2 inch deep so this should be a simple job. So, if anybody knows of a machine shop that has experience doing this kind of work and they are known for doing good work... please post their contact info. Thanks!

So, if you buy a new center cross section for 2004-2012 Colorado... and it arrives "primed" and is black (the color I was wanting anyway)... think it would be OK to put on the truck without painting? Maybe the better question would be, without painting it will it eventually start fading since it's primed plastic? If it's going to eventually discolor then I'd need to go get it painted at a body shop along with clear coat

That's a big NOPE for me...

Do you guys think it's possible to remove the OE bucket seats from their OE bracket... and then bolt on aftermarket seats? Mine is an '09 Colorado with OE power / heated bucket seats (not too comfortable), so I'm considering the Corbeau Sport Seat found at https://corbeau.com/sport-seat or the Corbeau Baja XRS at https://corbeau.com/baja-xrs (these should be closer to feeling like the OE seats that were in the 2011 Chevy Silverado that I used to have) I was looking up under my OE seats and there appear to be 4 points where the seat is attached to the OE bracket (it's a solid fastener that would need to be drilled out). I found a video at where the guy is reviewing the Corbeau Baja XRS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNQMjWxVDVc At 0:45 in the video, he's saying this seat has standard 4 bolt mounting points that would fit most seat frames manufactured in the paste 50 years. If true, then the 4 points where my OE seat is attached to me OE frame.... should match. By retaining my OE bracket, I'd be at about the same seat height as the after market bracket appears to be considerably lower and would not have up and down adjustment like I have with my OE bracket. Just curious if anybody has done this with OE Chevrolet seat brackets before and if so did these 4 points align all it would bolt right up? I don't just have to have the Corbeau seat. I'm open to any good quality aftermarket bucket seat that would bolt on to my OE frame if it's comparable to the Silverado seat as that seat was a lot more comfortable to me than the OE Colorado seat which feels more like a 70s bench seat (flat and soft, not supportive for thigh and ikidney mid section)