vranasaurus

This is exactly what my truck, 2020 2500 Duramax high country, does except for the service steering lock message. Next time it happens I am going to try and remote start it to see if I get that message. My dealership told me my batteries were bad so I paid for new ones and the issue has come back. I spent $1000 for troubleshooting and battery replacement only to have the problem intermittently occur. Their solution was “you’ve got to get the truck to go to sleep and to do that you need to open all the doors and hood and leave them open for 20 minutes.” First of all I shouldn’t have to perform a magic ritual like I’m at Hogwarts to get my truck to start, but second this is not effective. One time recently I got telematics code B101D and U18B4 codes. Another time I got a transfer case communication code don’t remember what it was. Other times I’ve charged the batteries and then it’s worked. My batteries shouldn’t draw down after I park the truck after lunch until the end of the day. When it is in this condition I notice when I put my foot on the brake to start it the speedometer needle flickers a bit for about 2 seconds. Also after it fails to start I get a high pitched noise coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment. My dealer is no help because the problem is not readily reproduced. GM needs to look into this because too many people are having this problem. My wife wants me to trade in the truck and go to a different brand because it is going to leave us stranded and I will never hear the end of it. If a solution is found let me know.

I agree with you that faster speed will decrease fuel economy due to air resistance. I’ve pulled similar loads with similar aerodynamics with my previous 5.3L 1500 and got 6 mpg. I just want to make sure my truck isn’t consuming excess fuel for some reason that could be addressed.

Averaged between 70 and 75 MPH.

I recently purchased a used 2019 CCSB Duramax 4wd with 70,000 miles. I pulled my 24 foot enclosed bumper pull cargo trailer on a 1460 round trip through Kansas, Oklahoma, and Texas. On the way out the total weight of the trailer and cargo was approximately 8500 lbs and on the way back it weighed approximately 6900 lbs. On the way out averaged 7.9 mpg and on the way back averaged 7 mpg. On the last 200 miles back there was a considerable head wind and I only got 6 mpg. The only modification I am aware of is the previous owner installed 275/70R18 tires in place of the stock 265/70R18. The difference in tire size is about .5” in diameter and 1.5” in circumference, not a significant difference. Do these fuel economy numbers seem low? I was getting about 6mpg pulling similar loads with my 2015 1500 with a 5.3. I was hoping to get at least 10-11 mpg while towing these types of loads. Were my expectations too high?

Update: The dealer balanced the tires and did an alignment. They did so at their expense because they were supposed to do it the previous day but my workorder fell through the cracks. I even offered to pay because it wasn't a big deal to me. Now as to the results: The vibration has been reduced significantly but not eliminated. I don't know if I'm just hyper sensitive to it now. But its now tolerable and barely noticeable at times. The toe was adjusted on the alignment. I think the need for an alignment was due to the leveling kit the previous owner installed but didn't do an alignment. They said any remaining vibration is due to the tires. I'm not sure that is correct. I would love to trade someone out for some nice factory rims and tires for a day and see if it goes away.

I've had my 2015 CCSB, 4x4, 5.3 LTZ for three weeks and it turned into a vibrator yesterday. Only had 5200 miles on it when I bought it. It went from the smoothest vehicle I have ever owned to a vibrating mess. About a week ago I started feeling vibrations in the gas pedal. Nothing major just a minor annoyance. I get back from Nashville last night and drive it home from the airport and I started noticing a side to side vibration in the steering wheel at speeds between 65 and 75. It got worse at higher speeds. I drove it on a 40 mile round trip today and it was worse. I've driven that same route numerous times and never had an issues. So I know it isn't the road. I have an appointment Thursday at the dealership to have it looked at. Fingers crossed.

Of the css. The filler neck to the valve cover is what it is.

New part fixed the looseness issue.

Already got the invoice for the new part. Thanks for the great service. I understand things happen and I appreciate the fast response to fix it.. I will say the kit is great and super easy to install. The factory connectors really make it look like something that came on the truck to begin with. My only recommendation would be to change the instructions and pictures for installing the CSS.

Also, has anyone experienced a vibration in the brake and gas pedals after installing a can? I have no idea why it would have caused anything like that. I ran crc valve cleaner through it prior to putting the can on.

My oil cap isn't loose in the hole but the css is. I am going try and find a bigger o ring.

OK I got it to fit by looking at pictures earlier in this thread. Which don't match the pictures in the instructions. The instructions even say to have the connector face forward. But where the CSS goes in place of the oil cap it's still incredibly loose. It's like the o ring isn't quite big enough.

Is the clean side supposed to fit really loose where the oil cap goes? Also this doesn't appear the be the right part? All the ones on the upr site show two right angle connectors from the clean side to the air box. I'm not sure I got the right parts. I also don't want to have to go back out and take it all off.

I don't think not having one is going to destroy your engine but it may require the valves to be cleaned more often. The reason they don't put catch cans on them from the factory is likely because Joe idiot will forget to empty it as required. Failing to empty it will eventually result in the gunk the can catches being sucked into the engine in large quantities all at once. I'm a lawyer not a mechanic or engineer so my understanding could be wrong. How many warranty claims is GM going to have when Joe Idiot actually destroys his engine by failing to empty the can? These engines will likely last past 100,000 miles without a can. GM is probably saving money by not having them. A manufacturer can refuse to warranty a modified product depending on the circumstances. A manufacturer agrees to warranty the product based upon its design and intended use as it leaves the factory. They do not have to warranty the product as modified by you because they did not agree to do that. Now that's a very simple way of looking at it. The law as well as the need for good customer relations on the manufacturer's part is far more complicated. A catch can probably isn't going to void your warranty. However if it in some way causes damage then GM may not be obligated to repair that damage. These types of issues are largely controlled by state law and state court decisions regarding those laws. What may relieve a manufacturer of an obligation to warranty the product in one state may not do so in another state. But remember this, often it may be cheaper for the manufacturer to simply warranty the vehicle even when it doesn't have to instead of paying some lawyer $250 or more per hour to potentially litigate the issue. Certain state consumer protection laws may allow for the recovery of legal fees by a successful plaintiff. It's often just cheaper and less risky for them to fix your vehicle instead of fighting you about it unless the manufacturer is almost certain to win in court. GM has probably fixed countless vehicles when it didn't have to simply to avoid litigation costs and bad press.

I ordered mine today. After seeing the black I should have done that. Oh well I think the satin looks nice too. They are doing a killer deal right now if you pm Joe. Customer service has been great so far.