So, I show up and saw the fender wrinkle on the right side. Slight. but there. That explained the limited pics. May not be a deal breaker if the the price was right. It had been smoked in at some time. Hard no for me right there. I figured I was there so I took it for a test drive. A small rear diff whine at around 45mph. That was enough for me. I found a white 2006 Yukon SLT sitting in a driveway on my lunch walks. Right next to it is a white 2015 Yukon SLT. The 06 Looks pretty clean, all stock. I thought it was worth an ask so I left a note on the winshield and the lady called me back. Retired couple. Original owners of the vehicle and she estimates the mileage at around 130k. She didnt know if they'd be willing to sell so she was going to ask her husband. Waiting for a call back to find out and maybe go look at the vehicle. Pretty excited.
Word. I've always put my trucks to use right off the bat. Some look great for a while, some not so much. I don't abuse them but I don't treat them like fine China either. A nice truck with scratches always looks better in deer camp than a flawless beauty in the driveway.
Gave up on even trying the Dr Colorchip. Too many chips on the front painted bumper. The dealership had the front painted with a cheapo paint job just to sell it. Now it's flaking off in too many spots. Well..... it's a truck. It's gonna be in the Nevada back country covered in dust or mud, or on the highway towing covered in bugs. I'm over having a cosmetically beautiful truck. Functionality works for me
Dude, I was joking. You're the king of 20 second swaps. Why in the world would you not unload the torsion bars while you have the truck up on jacks? Youre gonna swap in the new keys anyway right? If you're installing the kit, and you follow the instructions, (your call ) I'm gonna do this once. If you want to see if your stock keys will achieve your desired height, max them out and find out. I can tell you they won't, from experience. Save yourself some time and just use the new keys supplied with the kit....... during the installation You can do this any way you want. Even several times if you want. But as we've already covered this, I'd rather do it once, in order.
1. buy the kit 2. beam with happiness that you're about to level your truck and throw on those new wheels and tires 3. Look at all the new shiny parts that come with the kit 4. record the measure from the middle of your fenderwell to floor driver and passenger side, 5. record measure from bottom of your front diff to the floor 6. jack up the front end, set your jack stands, unload torsion bar, remove the old keys, insert new ones. (20 seconds max) 7. Thread your torsion key bolt in to Measure 28mm to the top of the bolt. Rough estimate, you'll change this anyway. 8. while you have your front end jacked up, pull your tires. 9. remove old UCA's 10. install new shocks 11. install the zerk fittings on the new UCAs. Grease UCA ball joints. UCA with the notched gusset goes on the driver's side. 12. install new UCAs, don't sweat the alignment notch, you'll need an alignment anyway. 13. front tires back on, woohoo! congrats on the new wheels and tires 14. beer break, pee break 15. loosen the 4 diff mounting bolts but do not remove them. (ask me how I know this, doh!) 16. remove two of the diff mounting bolts corner to diagonal corner, insert two of the diff spacers. Thread the two bolts in a little. 17. remove the other two diff mounting bolts, insert the two other diff spacers and tighten all four mounting bolts. 18. Lower your truck and re-measure your fenderwell see what height your at. 19. Adjust your torsion spring to desired front end height or just call SMiller, he’ll be over in 5 minutes with his 22mm socket and knock that right out for ya. 20. Left and right side may vary. I like to get it close then drive it for a day and re-measure. 21. Measure the new height of your front diff to the floor, after all, that’s the reason for the new tires right? Eazy Peazy 22. post pics on GMTrucks
I would disagree. You have to unload the torsion bars anyway to remove the UCAs and drop the diff. The new ones are keyed differently and start the torque spring earlier. With the old keys you'll run out of bolt, then have to do it all over again.
The kit for my 2500 includes the following. The four round puck spacers drop the diff an inch to level out the CV angles, not factory level but close. The Upper Control Arms increase the downward travel so it doesn't hit the bumpstop. 4 nice shocks. Not Bilstein nice, but they're adequate. Rear spacers are optional, I didn't use them. Overall, a pretty good kit to level out the front. I wouldn't recommend cranking it to the full 3.5", or even past 2.5" But it keeps everything as close to stock as possible without lifting the trucks mass any more than is needed to accomodate larger tires. Nice ride, still tight and comfy.
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