mjdxtreme

Thanks for the info. I'll get out there and look at some others to test-drive. Knew the deal seemed too go to be true. It was a 2016 Yukon slt with less than 8000 for under 47k. Unfortunately the others I have seen with 12k to 20k miles similarly equipt have been 50k+ so my something must be wrong alarm went off but figured I would check it out.

yea I have passed on that particular vehicle. Just not sure if I should continue looking at them or potentially move to another brand or just hang on to what my wife currently drives until a redesign occurs.

Alright guy I need your help. My wife and I are looking to get a Yukon or Tahoe but are concerned with this buffeting/booming noise. I have read through many of the pages and while there are many solutions that may help lessen the noise it seems like there is no full know cause of fix for this issue. Here is my dilemma, we found a Yukon that is a outstanding deal that we don't want to pass up but upon test driving it, the vehicle has this issue. I assume that's why the previous owner traded it in with so few miles on it, under 10k. Is this an issue with all of the yukons/tahoes or is it like the sierra/Silverado shake that some have and some don't? Also are there other variables that we know of that lessen the issue such as roof rack cross members, sun roof vs no sunroof. Any updates on those that have had a full resolution or know if this is an issue with most/all would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

When you installed you light bar above where the front plate goes. Did you have to cut the plastic behind the light or did it fit without cutting a hole. I am lookong to install a light bar above the front plate cover on my 2015 denali but dont want to cut the plastic to get it to fit. Any advice would be appreciated.

If they have a 6 in kit for the magnetic ride it is going to just use extensions and spacers anyway. If you only want to go 4 inches you can just fab up a relocation bracket or see if the dealer can do a relearn on the sensor position rod which should put the ride back to factory quality. Now I have not done this but am considering a level or lift for my 2015 denali and read about these options.

Fogs are led opt7 5202 fluxbeams all plug and play. My headlights are hids running on a relay to ensure they work. One of the hid headlights would not fire up without the relay from the battery.

I need some more details on this set up. I really like what you did and have been looking to ger better lighting out back when in reverse as I have some dark tint. Did you have to remove the rear step to install or we you able to install with the steps still on? Where did you pick up the lights?

Looks good. Whats your suspension setup?

Well I decided that the cheap led fog lights that I got just were not cutting in so I purchased some Opt7 fluxbeam 5202 from amazon. So far I am extremely pleased with the results. I am running HID's in my stock projectors and the new fogs. Here are some pics of what they look like. Before: (Headlights are before my HID Install in these pic's) Inside the cab with parking lights and LED fogs only After Opt7 fogs installed 20161120_173927 by Matthew Davignon, on Flickr 20161120_171236 by Matthew Davignon, on Flickr Fogs Only 20161120_171613 by Matthew Davignon, on Flickr Fogs and Low Beams 20161120_171435 by Matthew Davignon, on Flickr Low Beams Only 20161120_171408 by Matthew Davignon, on Flickr

I swapped my cheap led fog light bulbs out with some opt7 fluxbeams. Ill see how they look tonight. Seem to be a lot brighter. Hopefully ill have some pics later.

You truck as got to be dark as hell on the inside. How the hell do you drive that thing at night? My calculations if my math is right at 5% over 20% over 20% is only letting in like 2% of light. Plus you have 40% on the windshield. Im running an 8 inch 5% glare strip 5% on front windows and 20% over the factory back tint and its hard to see at night.

Spent the day washing and waxing to a nice shine.

My front is 35 1/2 inches and the rear is a little over 39 1/4.

Are you 2wd or 4wd? Also do you have the 5.3l or the 6.2l? In your pictures it looks like your truck sits higher than just a 2"leveling kit. I have measured my rake and its almoat 4 inches higher in the rear. Im 4wd with the 6.2l

Good lookin truck. What Lift/leveling kit did you use and how high?

I was reviewing the installation instructions for this kit and it shows there is some cutting of the rear crossmember and grinding on the differential. How did clean does it look? I have been looking into this kit but have a hard time buying a kit that requireds cutting and grinding on my 60k truck. Only problem is we are limited on what kits we can use die to the magentic ride control. Can you post some pics of your setup.

I installed my airraid mit today. Looks and sounds great. Coupled with the exhaust that i did earlier this week the truck sounds great. Not overly loud and not to quiet. Really rumble like it should when you are on the throttle. Just a quick recap I installed a magnaflow muffler leaving the factory exhaust flapper on. Was too quiet so I clamped the flapper opened. I am pleased with the results. Here is a quick video for sounds clip of just start up http://vid94.photobucket.com/albums/l117/mjdxtreme/Mobile%20Uploads/20160923_171048_zpsde4ddj4w.mp4

Yea just used a hose clamp. If i remember correctly when under the truck looking up at it. I turned it counter clock wise. One way only turned a little bit and the other way turns more something like a quarter revolution or so

I clamped the flapper valve open and its amazing the difference in tone. A lot deeper and a little louder rumble just on start up. I have not had a chance to drive it yet to hear what it sounds like with afm engaged and with various throttle applied. So ill report back a little later after i have driven it for a little bit. UPDATE!! I have taken the truck on about a 20 minute drive with the flapped clamped open. A mix of city and highway. Much more agressive tone that I am looking for. Not really any drone when afm does kick in but the afm does not seem to kick in as much. I think I am going to leave the flapper in and just leave it clamped open and if i get tired of the tone i can remove the clamp and quiet it back down. I can have the best of both worlds this way if need be.

Got my muffler swap done. Magnaflow part 12909 swapped and left the flapper and rear resonator on for now as i have 2 small kids. Not sure how long i will leave it this way. Still is really quiet, Especially under normal driving. Wakes up a little under hard acceleration but not as loud as i would like it. I may clamp the valve open and see how it sounds to get an idea of what i may need to do to liven it up a little more. Still waiting on my airraid mit to arrive.

How is the drone? I was considering leaving the flapper in to make sure i do not get the chopper drone when afm kicks in.

I was quoted 220 as well. I have not decided if I am going to take the rear resonator out or not. May have if install the muffler test it out and see how loud it is. If it is too quiet I will remove the rear resonator. I plan to keep the flapper valve in to keep the v4 drone out. I have read on here that that is the best way to go but all a matter of personal taste. I have a 2008 sierra denali with the 6.2 that was supercharged with flowmaster 50 series on that sounded good but could get a little annoying after a while so wanted to look at something a little quieter.

Ordered my Airraid MIT as well as set up an appt to have my exhaust done. Just going with a muffler swap to a magnaflow to get a little more tone out of the truck. Not wanting anything to aggressive just a little rumble under full throttle. Now the agonizing wait!!!!

I cannot remember the brand. My brother found some on ebay. They were a set of two 5 ft long strip of led lights with a rubberized coating. 3m tapes to hold under the rockers. I can get a closer shot of them if you need me to. We ran the wires through the rubber grommet on the drivers side that the e brake cable goes through. And on the passenger side there is a plastic plug we drilled a small hole in then used silicone to ensure the hole was fully sealed. Snaked the wires under the carpet and behind the dash to the wiring harness that controls the dome lights.

I cannot take credit for figure this mod out. There are several members who have done similar mods and I used the great info that they provided. Here is a link to where I got some of info to complete. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/172674-footfootwell-lighting-color-match-wiring/ This is just one place. There are several other links as well.