darkfox1

The taillights new are like $600 each, headlights for an LTZ about $800 each, for an LT about $600 each. Bumper $440, grill $600, lower valence with chrome insert adds up to about $450. You saved a boatload if you did this with used parts. I just wanted to do a simple LTZ swap on my truck and I was looking at over $1200 (excluding headlights).. I gave up. Nice work! Now you STILL have a nicer truck than mine will ever be.

There's a wire harness there even if you dont have that option, so you'd have to content with those. iirc the spacing back there is rather tight. A small push button or rocker switch would work for a non-equipped through. If you dont mind risking marring up that silver panel. I dont know what a replacement costs.

Thanks!, but sadly no, the truck in the picture is the one that I bought but.. because of complications, I no longer have it. I'll update my profile pic with my truck when I actually get it. (It's a really long story.) We very may well have passed each other on the road though, just.. very unlikely that it was in that silver one. I do remember a grommet in the doorjamb and I used it for my wiring, running it inside the fender into the engine bay, but I was always super paranoid that poking a hole in that grommet was going to lead to a soggy floorboard or electrical damage. I really wished that I could have went directly into the engine bay from the cabin, but I just couldn't get it lined up that way. I saw a guy last night with a roof mount light bar. It really lit things up. I may do a light bar behind my grill, once I get my own truck that is.. I'm not sure where I'll mount the switch though (or if I'll even do a switch) because the truck I'm trying to get has a trailer brake controller.

Hrmm, the console idea is intriguing. I could see far more than 2 small ones there, if you could do something with the cig lighter, you could have ~4 switches between the usb ports and the power inverter. The OHC I would avoid because of the wiring work that requires, but it is a great place for access

Take the diode out, pass inspection, put the diode in. Once you know the pins it should take seconds.

I will try again today and take pics if I need to. After the horn thing and a failure to "remember' correctly with the brown wire I went so far as to print out spurlocks diagram with the labeled pins and tried it and still got nothing. I thought maybe it was backward, but the foglight switch didn't toggle the brights, and I couldn't tell where anyting else was going on. The diodes seem kind of small, maybe I have the wrong one? it says 1n4004 on the package and the diode itself though. I did a diode swap on my last truck to rig up reverse lights va the cargo lamp and it went very well, not sure why I'm having difficulty with this one.

I'm feeling pretty dumb RN. '15 CC with factory fogs, got the 1n4004 diodes, I see BR/WH in the right place, but where theres supposed to be a BR/VT all I see is solid brown, maybe the wires twisted, but jumping anyway does nothing. I did see what I THOUGHT was a BR/VT but jumping to this makes the horn blow with the brights on. that was fun.

I've been working with GMPD to get PNs for the denali console with the woodgrain sides. I dont have PNs yet, but I think I want to swap out my silver door trim with the denali woodgrain. The console PN I ordered a long time ago still seems to work, as does the bracket, and one of the 2 side pockets, but the top trim and the passenger side map pocket trim doesnt. Anyone have the latest PNs for the black console? Also, did anyone ever get those usb ports to work? I never could get mine to do anything last time around, and I kinda hated that. I know my 2015 has a usb in the glovebox. I wonder if I can move the wire for that to the 3 in the upper console?

$500?? think I'll just buy a new $10 usb cable. I'm trying to get a console in my '15 now, so I'll be doing this project again. Thought about the wireless charging, didn't know it used like. solid diamond and uranium in the mix that would make the lid so expensive though.

Here's the stock shackle on a 2016 2wd: The mcgaughys I got are a fair bit larger than this, I'm actually concerned I ordered the wrong thing now. My main concern right now is that my 2015 has been in the shop 4 days with a bad diff, and I'm worried that if I put this on, they will tell me my wrranty is void or that my shackles are causing the issues if the problem persists. But at the same time.. I dont want to look at my "slamming on brakes ALL THE TIME" profile when I'm walking to it from a parking lot.

Out of curiosity, how are you other folks routing your wires and finding your power? For me, I went through the battery terminal and ran a wire across the firewall in a wire loom and zip tied it to the existing loom, then used a relay in the battery tray to power things, I got my RAP from the RAP accessory option under the floorboard. It worked great but.. it was a huge pain to get to under the dash

Well this thread is thoroughly exhausting. I can't say I absorbed all 47 pages of info, but, I guess I'm kind of surprised that with only a 2" shackle that there are issues with bump stocks, shocks, pinions and bearings. I ordered the McGaughys 33037 today for my 2wd '15 CC SB. I'm kind of having second thoughts because I don't want to deal with all these problems. Would a 2/4 kit from say djm address these issues as a kit? Maybe I should bite the bullet and drop the whole thing rather than going with the "see if I like it" first step of a drop shackle. I really dont want to lower the overall ride height, but I'm just concerned. Anything I do will be professionally installed. I dont like to do suspension work myself. I drive too much to trust my own work.

Man I love these tires. I've seen them all over the place and I'm trying to get them on my truck. I can't seem to get OTD with them for less than $1050 though. Am I being unreasonable or are they?

I actually have a 4x4 bezel in my garage with the cubby pocket in it, if you need photos or measurements or anything. (or if you want it..) I'm glad to see this is still active. I'm finally back in a truck (long story, wont go into it) but its a 2wd this time around. I would definitely recommend the trailer brake bezel over the cubby pocket bezel if you are dremeling it out. its flatter and way easier to work with. I'm not at all what you'd call skilled and for mine to turn out like it did really shows how easy this is.

All it'll do is offset the load capacity of the cig lighters. Not really a big deal unless you have a ton of stuff plugged in at once. Then it'll blow the fuse to protect the wire. If I had my way GM would have included the correct harness in the first place, and I coulda just plugged right in. But I guess I get why they didn't. Saves weight and money.

I just crimped a wire off the other cig lighter plug wire to go into the new one. I dont have a power inverter so my inverter is just cosmetic, and my usbs have 12v but dont work yet. I got the 12v off the cig lighter wire also.

My jump seat took several weeks to sell and I only got $100 for it. I felt like the guy was robbing me quite frankly.

Are you planning to put anything on that 4wd shifter? Seems like its a little close in that pocket. I'd probably try to get like a bracket to reposition a shifter head with a diagram on it to the driver side a little. I think it'd look real good.

Just did this, it works like a charm! Thanks for the writeup!

if I get leaks with it I'll probably take it out and put some silicone in and around the wire. I have rubber floormats though so I may not notice if the carpet gets wet.

So phase I of this project is finally done for me. Here is the final interior result: I'm very happy with how it turned out. The white LEDs are a little bright for my dimmed state interior lights but not so bright that they distract me. The install, imo is very clean. The ONLY THING that bugs me is the amount of wire behind the panel forced the bottom of the switch panel trim to stick out just a little bit. Being a perfectionist, this bothers me quite a bit, but.. nothing can be done about it, so I'll just have to do my best to ignore it. The only person that could tell really would be someone working on the floorboard anyway. So.. no problem really. I don't have many pics cos I'm kind of beat up from crawling all over the place inside the truck, under the truck etc. I made a custom harness for the front of the truck using some 14ga wire, 2 entire rolls of electrical tape, and parts of a harness I bought for this truck and didn't use. I also used a large weatherpoof harness I got from a junkyard. This all uses the RAP accessory circuit in the junction box just above the emergency break to pull power to the switches. So as long as the ignition is on or the truck is in "accessory" the switches are live. You can always tell when the option to use them is available because they light up, so I like that. When I turn the truck off they stay on until I open the door or ~10 minutes when the radio/RAP times out. I did this because my truck didn't come with stock foglights and I wanted them, but didn't want to reprogram the BCM. I can now run the fogs 100% independent of the headlights, low beams, high beams, no beams. I'll be using the other switch for a set of 1500 lumen "flood" LED lights I'll put behind the grill. With the lumens so low they may not help at all but.. they were $23 so.. whatever. so far I'm happy! I recommend this route if you're thinking about accessory switches. oh yea, I pulled the wires for the lights and relays through a grommet in the doorjam just forward of the door wire harness connector. Trying to go through the firewall grommet was a pita and I wanted to complete this today heh.

I decided to use the doorjam grommet. I was running 2 14ga wires through it. I made a small hole but when I pulled the wire through it split the grommet a bit. I taped the harness to the grommet to cover the split and put it back in. Hopefully not a problem!! It doesn't LOOK like this area gets water running through it, but.. ya never know. Better safe than sorry.

Very close to being "finished" with this! just came in to verify a wire color before I solder something. and to rest my feet and legs. I've been mostly in the shop since about 9am this morning working on this. So far so good!

There's 2 baffles in there? I got through the first one with an all but the wire hanger goes so far (about 1/2" or so) and then just stops. I'm afraid to push too hard cos I dont want to tear up any of the wires entering the cabin.

Any updates on this? No water in the cabin? I've been trying another route (the nipple on the large grommet in the firewall) and I can't even find that thing in the cabin. I fish a wire in and it just stops. I think its behind the power junction box or something. I was just concerned this area might leak.