darkfox1

Ah. yea from looking at the pic I see it now. Hey, how did you route your wires? I'm starting to work on this. Theres a LOT of wiring in this dash! I got 4 wires fished from the rap up to the switches but I need 2 going out and I need to jumper 2 pins on the switches since I'm not running them off some kinda headlight indicator type thing. I have 14ga wire so I'm thinking things may be a little tight back thre.

Just got mine in. DO NOT BUY THIS from IAMGMPARTS. They sent me ONE of each wire for $5 each. The bag is a qty of 5 bag. I should have gotten 5 for $5! Do they REALLY think 5 small wires are worth $25?! theives... I may stop dealing with them all together for this. Its flat out stealing.

Thats a good idea. They always mount the daggum thing right where your knee goes and you bang it getting in and out.. I'd say that turned out pretty good! I can't say thats my choice of logos or labels but.. Are they white LED? What do they look like at night? Do they match the stock white? My wire harness is supposed to come in tomorrow, but I'm still not gonna install anything until my grill comes in. I wanna do this teardown once.

Sounds cool. Didn't know they still made the manual t-cases. Good to know. Can't wait for pics! Yea, I have 12v connected to the usbs and it doesn't do anything. I assume I need the usb in there too. I keep seeing pics with peoples screens out and a brown usb connector port on the far right of the unit behind the screen. Whats that for if thats not it? Or is that for 15s only? I haven't been into mine yet. I haven't had a reason to.

This is my theory as well. I haven't been back into my dash of late to give it a try. I have a spare usb cable from when I cut the harnesses. I think this may be whats required to make the charging aspect work. I also considered putting the 5v line in with a 12v>5v converter, that should give the usb ports all the power they need. You can buy a cheap 12-5 converter out of an old phone charger. I actually have one that does the job. I haven't tried it yet though, I'll only use that if the usb trick doens't work.

Sorry, if I had pics handy I woulda sent em along. One thing I HIGHLY suggest investing in if you EVER do interior work of any kind is a set of interior trim removers. You can buy a set of like 5 pieces at autozone for $15 or so iirc. They allow you to wedge a "Screwdriver" into these panels without damaging them in most cases. I use them to remove this panel because the bottom finger point is hard to get off sometimes. I pry between the lower dash and the side panel and it pops right off. I used them religiously when doing my console swap as well. I've alreayd gotten my money's worth out of them I think.

so it looks like 3 will fit. Does it gap out on the side at all? I went with 2 instead of 3 because it looked like the curve of the faceplate would make it stick out.

1. open drivers door. 2. note at bottom of dash there's like a logo or a symbol of some kind. 3. grab in that area and pull like the devil straight out, it'll release the clips, exposing the fuse panel. 4. start pulling the grey plastic piece out from the dash on the outside, that'll give you enough grip to get the rest of it off. The vent stays in the truck. 5. To remove the piece I modified, I recommend using needle nose and squeezing the clips from the backside and pushing outward.

Glad the info helped! I didn't have to cut the harness out of the jumpseat, but I did modify it to fit the new console, and used the new console wire harness to make a "custom harness" of sorts. In hindsight, knowing the LEDs in the console are 12v, I would have wired them into the cig lighter wires so that they work all the time. My console has no lighting in it right now, and I don't plan to ever take it out.. which means I'll probably never have lighting in it. After having my console for a month or so now I LOVE having it. It's like its always been there. The storage benefit is HUGE for me. I carry so much more stuff with me now and have tons of room to spare.

I'm VERY happy with how its turned out. I'm the kind of person that gets bothered by things that look aftermarket, so for me to be ok with it is very rare. (and that makes me happier that I'm happy. ) As for the wire harness that was here before, the trailer brake harness, I pushed it through to the lower hole in the dash. I'll probably tape it up so it doesn't rattle when I go to run the wires for this.

They're not clicked in all the way, so they don't sit as flush as they will when its done. But here's sort of the mock-up.

Dude that is sick looking!

I haven't needed to go into the dash for any reason, so its still sitting on my kitchen counter. I might could put it in the truck tomorrow though and snap a pic. The switches are still out though.

I'm waiting on 2 wire harnesses before I can install it. One for the RAP circuit and one for the LED backup lights. They'll be in in a week or 2. After that.. I wont be working on the fog lights until I get another ~$1000 or so to blow on this.. because I need a new grill and headlights. So it may be a while.

I've had my battery disconnected several times for my foglight project. (bumpers and airbag sensors.. yea.. proably a good idea no?) No issues with the radio being locked out. Plugging the batteyr back in it even remembers the radio station presets. What it doesn't remember is the time or date. Mind you I have IO4 with the 4.5" screen. IO5+ with the 8" may be different.. but I doubt they'd do that. Yea.. I've got 12v going to my usbs but no usb cable. They do nothing right now. Next time I'm in the dash I'll see about putting a cable in there.

Installing the physical console is easy, the biggest issue for me was the wire harnesses. Also, make sure you remove the plastic trim on the support pillar next to your gas pedal BEFORE you put everything in. Trying to get it out later becomes a pita. It's not impossible, but its a bit harder than if you do it first. Looking forward to the pics!

Ordered for about $49 shipped to my door from iamgmparts. It'll take about 2 weeks to get here probably, but... a lot better than $150 at gouger chevrolet.

Na.. these folks have had 2 strikes for me.. they get one more and then I'm not dealing with them ever again. I'm trying to install reverse lights and factory fog lights without the bcm. That's what I need the RAP for. I need to order some harnesses for the switgches I ordered anyway so.. I'll just get em from IAMGMPARTS and just wait.. again..I just hate waiting on stuff. If I can pay a bit more for something small like this and get it like.. next day.. its worth it to me. waiting like 2 weeks is just murder. I've got everything I need at this point EXCEPT this and the switch harnesses.

They said each package of wires was $47 and the connector was another ~$43. I've been to this dealership before where they told me doing what I'm trying to do (add footlights) would void my ENTIRE vehicle warranty. I only went to them for location and I THOUGHT... SURELY the parts guys will be good.. nope.

Just went to a dealer and tried to order them in hopes that I could get my hands on them by Friday. IAMGMPARTS wants like $45 shipped or somethin. Dealership? $150 plus tax. Yea.. I'm ordering it online..

Sort of reviving this thread here. Do I need both sets of wires if i'm just pulling RAP and ground off of this? Or only the large/small depending on my amperage? Looks like from pics that the pins may be different sizes,but can't tell from looking at that or in person. I was looking at using Pin 8 to power some switches that will be backlit and used to pull in a battery sourced relay, so that the bcm can shut off the lights if I leave the switch on. Also, those 3 parts come to about $48 shipped from IAMGMPARTS. They're a dealership in Jackson MS. apparently. So if you're near there you could probably get em to waive the shipping. (maybe.) They're a bit slow getting things in the mail but once they do it gets there quick for me and the prices tend to be very competitive with GMPD.

I think I suddenly know who you are! I think I used your video as a how-to to take my grill off. You had a MUCH better method than the "professionals" at an aftermarket grill manufacturer recommended. Your video was installing anzo headlights.

Thanks. Part of me wants to try something a little different. Order a replacement for the "backup lights" switch to say "Driving Lights" and use 1 set of those $23 LEDs in my grill. The backup lights can PROBABLY run off the LED bed rail harness at the back of the truck through the factory cargo lamp switch. I dont know that that's true but.. speculating. I hate to run a wire all the way down my frame for no reason ya know?

OTRATTW does landscape as an option for their switches. I saw it on the order form. Worst case you can go that route. It'll cost you money re buying them though. Apparently the switches I bought also have the option of a wire harness. After looking at how close the pins are together I may be ordering those. From there I also need to order the RAP harness for the junction box behind the e-brake. That's where I plan to get my feed signal for the switches. They'll go from there out to the engine bay where relays will pull in from the battery. Using RAP means they will work any time the engine is running or shortly before/after or when in accessory mode. It will also allow the rundown protection the BCM provides to shut them down if battery life starts getting low.

It looks like it. You may be better off doing a 4x switch bezel and mounting them horizontal. It may be easier to line it up that way. Trying to do 2 and 2 might get one out of square to the other and make em look wonky. Course, you might be better at this kinda thing than I am.