darkfox1

OK so it did make it in today! Which was perfect because it was 69 and sunny outside and I had my afternoon free, so I wasted no time! First, a review of the OtrattW switches and switch bezel: Top notch. The switch mechanics are VERY nice. The etching looks great. You can tell this is a quality product. The bezel clicked together with no issue, I would recommend them! OK, so onto the bezel part of the install. (I have something to order before I can actually wire all this and I need a lot more time for that. Unless someone wants to buy the rims I have for sale. ) This part was fairly easy. I'm by no means good at cosmetic modifications like this so for it to turn out good for ME? It will turn out great for you. I used my dremel and 3 bits. A thin cutting/grinding disc, a cutting pencil tip, and a large abrasive block that looks like a rocket cone. I covered the plate in painters tape, since its a cosmetic piece. This plastic is VERY fine and makes a particle mess. It cuts very easy and seems to have a low melting point. You will get dirty! USE EYE PROTECTION! I used the bottom edge of the factory hole for the trailer brake as my bottom line, then drew it out with a straight edge. I then traced the box lining it up with the line I drew and "best guess" centered it. Looking at it now it's a bit to the right but, it's not bad! This is the bezel. It's pretty deep as you can see. It interferes a bit with the factory clips for the trailer brake harness. You don't have to "remove" them per say.. they kind of break off depending on where you do your cutting. I cut right through 2 of the 3 that are there. The bottom one isn't a problem since its lower for the 4wd controls. First cut out. I cut it close with the disc and then finished the corners with th pencil tip. See all that mess? Thats the powder and chunks it left behind. (My workbench is also kind of dirty in this spot cos I do all my cutting here.) The switch plate didn't fit yet, the corners were too tight, as expected. You can see here how close the hole is to the edges of the factory trailer brake clips. I wound up tweaking them off with scissors, vynil scissors (for some leverage) and part of the abrasive cone bit. It fits! Oops.. I even clicked it in by mistake. I had to stop here and get it out so that I could get the tape off. The rough cut hole is about as well as I'd expect a hand cut hole to be for me anyway. I didn't do much damage to the bezel otherwise. I did knick it in one spot when the pencil tip bounced, but its VERY small and I'm not fussed about it. It looks like a water spot or something. You'd only notice it if you were cleaning for a car show or something.. its that small. Switch bezel in place. Fits great! It doesn't look that out of place either. The 2 switches I ordered are just sitting on the bezel. they have a special removal tool so if you click them in they aren't coming out. I wanna get them wired up before I click them in. Still, this shows you how they match up to the head light switch.

Scan History Date Time Location Status April 21, 2015 06:09 ROCKMART, GA 30153 ARRIVED AT POST OFFICE April 15, 2015 PRE-SHIPMENT INFO SENT TO USPS Looks like usps never disappoints with tracking information... At any rate, looks like I'll get my switches, probably tomorrow. (I think the usps lady starts her rounds at 5am so this is a late arrival.) I'll post details on em when they come in. I'm excited! Especially since this company has had my money since the 12th and I've had nothing but an empty tracking page.

Weird that it comes with the switch. Cost a bit more than mine but its still negligibly cheap. For a company that charges $600 for a chrome bumper cover I'd say that's pretty reasonable.

Sorry for the delay. The piece I ordered was just the trim plate. The switches didn't come in. What I do is email customer service at gmpd with a vin of a truck I find on ebay or something that has the part I want, and they give me the PN. If I order it and its wrong.. its on me for not clarifying! You should have a lot more room than 4wd guys do for switches. I just gave OTRATTW a call. I placed my order on the 12th and its still not here. They said if it doesn't show by Wed. to let them know and they'll re-send. Great folks to deal with really! I hope its on the steps when I get home. Tired of waiting on usps. "1-3 days." Yea.. right. My LED reverse lights are coming ups "surepost" which means all the slowness of ups, with the added slowness of usps. So those may arrive in 2017.. we'll see.

I don't really like to "buy stuff" so paying for amazon prime really wouldn't benefit me. The rocker switches I got have LEDs top and bottom. From what I understand the words are lit up all the time and when you click them on it lights up the icon. I figure I'll wire the light into the RAP so it'll be on whenever the truck is on (and on when the truck is off.. for a bit..) I dont think an LED will drain my battery and the RAP system is monitored by the BCM anyway so.. hopefully not an issue. I got white/white hoping it'd match my other dash lights. I doubt I could get one to match the blue color of the silverado interior lights. I should know something by next weekend at this point.

I like the overhead rockers. They blend in very well. I'd love to see what you come up with. If someone can match the finish on this thing with a solid plate or something like that that'd really be cool. I imagine you could run 2 of the 2x switch plates on the 2wd cover without having to do that though, it may be a little tight though. Hard to say. From the back the 4wd module and trailer brake modules are about the same size. I'm still waiting on parts. Apparently if you ask amazon to use saver shipping they ship it in a hobo's backpack and ask him to find a train to your destination. The switches though should be here pretty soon. (the LED lights are a side project frankly.) I've been itching to dive into this thing. Just checked shipping on the LEDs.. they have left the country for some reason.. guy dropped them off in CA and whoever the carrier is (amazon refuses to tell me) sent it to ontario. Why on earth would they do that? Guh.. ridiculous.

My trailer brake trim piece came in. It was $13 and some change from IAMGMPARTS. Heres pics and a ruler for measurements. It was kinda hard to hold the camera and the tape measure at the same time. I decided to order a few items from OTRATTW.net. Mainly these items: http://www.otrattw.net/CONTURA-V-BACKUP-LIGHTS-LOWER-LED-INDEPENDENT-V1D1JWWB-PZC77-58B.html http://www.otrattw.net/CONTURA-V-BACKUP-LED-LIGHTS-LOWER-LED-INDEPENDENT-V1D1JWWB-PZCBU-500.html https://otrattw.net/Snap-In-Switch-Bracket-End-VME-01.html One of the "backup lights" switches I ordered with custom text that says FOG LIGHTS since I'll be using them for that purpose. The other.. I ordered a cheap set of LED "driving lights" for the rear of my truck http://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Headlight-Waterproof-Dustproof-Shockproof/dp/B00GLLW3AM/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428879026&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=%27Signstek+218W+CREE So that I can see when backing up without having "Redvision" from the stock camera. I think it'll be helpful in a number of ways.. and at that price I'm not too worried about em.. so long as they work.. OTRATT offers a 2 switch and 3 switch panel. The 3switch panel is about 3" and would JUST rn past the edges of the trim on the stock trim plate. The 2 siwtch plate is about 2.5" wide iirc and will cover the stock hole nicely and any hole I dremel to fit it in. This is a lot easier than sourcing the reaper/black widow switch pod or trying to engineer something to go into the cubby. I will post updates when all my parts come in. The OTRATT stuff is coming from CA to GA usps and I have a custom etching on one of them so.. it may take a week or 2 before I see it.

I ordered a trailer brake 4x4 dash panel from iamgmparts. It should be here in a week or so. It was REALLY cheap, about $13. 22830877 is the part number. Will update with some pics when it comes in.

er.. wrong thread somehow?

I just got off the phone with my 3rd contact for the reaper cubby switches and it's a dead end. They did however give me another number for a place in AL. However on Fridays the close at NOON! (Wish my job did that....) So I'll have to wait till Monday to call them to see if they have the part. I'm not being told no, just being told "we can't find any." Don't even know what it costs yet.. I was just thinking earlier, if I could get a 4wd trailer brake bezel and find someone who knows how to do it.. I could have the holes filled and switches mounted in that with fiberglass/bondo and have the paint matched. (that's sometimes the hard part right there.)

I'm probably gonna pull power for thje switch off RAP inside the cab, so the only wires running through the FW will be the power out to the relay. The relay will run right off the battery. This is actually for my foglight retrofit project. It's too much hassle to go with the way GM did it from the factory for me, and I like having the control over it. All I need is RAP to be on and my fogs will work if I have the rocker switch on. The other switch will be for reverse/trailering lights. I had some on my 03 silverado and loved them. With a backup cam and reverse lights you can hitch up by yourself in 1 go without having to get out and look.. even in the middle of the night if you had to. VERY useful. I dont have these yet, but I'd still get the switch in there and ready. I actually spoke with a client today. The client makes assembly parts for factories that injection mold plastic. I was disheartened to hear that he didn't know of anyone that does "small jobs." I'm working with the folks at southern comfort right now for the reaper switches, but I'm pretty much "begging and pleading" since they normally refuse parts for these custom trucks to people who do not own one. I understand that on the fender flares and grill, but switches too? They haven't said no yet, but they haven't said yes either. Still pushing. To make one ourselves.. I'd take the approach of trying to get measurements of the stock rubber insert, then extend the front lip to the top of the cubby with a rubber bushing on the back. If there was some kind of "rubber hardener" that made rubber as hard as plastic it could be sprayed on the existing rubber piece and a front plate mated with it with adhesive and that'd accomplish that goal right away. The other option would be to glue 2 pieces of plexi together, but since I want this to look professional.... I dont think I have the ability to do that. (I can't even cut a straight line. I don't have a saw for this kind of work, just a dremel.) Anyone know of any free cad programs? I could try to draw up something. This may be easier to make than to try to buy tbh

The switches themselves are very useful yes, but I need the plastic cubbyhole insert to put said switches in first. I considered mounting them in the overhead console. That's sort of the last option for me.

I'm still trying to get a price/source on the top one. I've been doing some looking at the cubby. The rubber piece thats inside of it clips in with a lower tab and there's 2 upper tabs. If someone had a 3d scanner we could get a render of this piece going fairly easily I imagine. Extend the front lip to the top of the panel and put a rubber trim piece on the back side of it to prevent it from rattling, perhaps put some 45s on either side for stretch. (you dont want the piece moving inward when you push on the switches.) I haven't seen either of the above in person yet but from discussing the NX solution that seems to be how its made.. cept its metal. I'm thinking 3d printing or some sort of injection molding from a template. I just don't have any good contacts just yet or I'd already be underway in trying ot get these things made. Southern comfort is giving me the run around. I was on the chat thing on hold for over an hour today. (I've been on client sites all week so I can't call them.)

Yup. For the trucks with the trailer brakes theres a small button hole area and a slot for the sensitivity. I considered just buying that bezel and putting my switch behind the hole but.. I figure it'd kinda look weird.

Yea, the first option is my first choice too, the folks at southern comfort haven't been too forthcoming with one just yet though. I'm going to keep poking at them until I get a price or a "no." I really only need 1 switch, but I've been considering adding reverse lights to the truck too so.. having a 2nd switch would be fine with me. Frankly I'm surprised there aren't a lot of options out there for this. That cubby is worthless and GM has really given us few options for mounting locations on the K2 body trucks. GMT-800s had tons of places.. and 900s even had a few (though far less.)

I've been trying to find a place to put accessory switches for a while. Then today I find this: (full link to source here: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/review/first-drive-lingenfelter-silverado-reaper-54094.html?page=2 ) I called lingenfelter which directed me to southern comfort which says they're special order, and hasn't yet given me a price after a few HOURS on the live support chat. Anyone know where else to get such a thing? Also found this from Nitrous Express: (full source here: http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15789-2014-up-silverado-custom-switch-panel.html ) Works.. but its labeled and the buttons are much smaller. I talked to Chris at NX for awhile and he was very helpful. The problem for me on the NX solution is that the labels are etched, so I'd have to buy the switch panel, sand it, then have it repainted, and its already $60.. so that'd cost a lot for such a little thing. I'd prefer the first one. Has anyone seen anything like this? TBH I'm considering reaching out to one of my clients that does CNC/waterjet work and seeing if they can put mein touch with someone to make a generic panel to fit in this spot. I forsee this useless cubby having a big market for switches, and I'm surprised there's so few out there.

My 5.3 with 3.08 gears on the highway, reset trip meter once at cruise speed (78mph) for 150 miles gets 19.9mpg while going down hill and 19.1mpg while going up hill. (about a 1000 ft decline/incline over 150 miles.) Oddly enough, if I reset the trip meter and tool around my daily driving. I get about 19.0-19.4mpg right now. Prior to the cleaning I was seeing about the same highway, but around town was 17.9-18.4mpg.

This is sort of what mine did. The first start after the soak was slightly delayed, it had to turn over a few more times than it normally does on a prepped start. It was also boggy at the beginning of my drive. The more I drove it the better it got though. The 2nd drive it was a totally different truck.

Me? Him? I'm stock 17s with crappy bridgestone HTs that I hate and want to get rid of ASAP and 3:08s. Hrmm.. ya know when I did the intake cleaner I said I was gonna do the TB but I just didn't want to fool with it. I wasn't even in my wrenchin' clothes. Might need to pop that TB off and have a look in there still.

OK.. I'm getting a catch can. There a thread for this? (I'm sure there is.. but.. I need to know how to install it.) When I saw the oil pic without reading the whole thread I kinda freaked out cos I thought that was in your intake. If there's that much oil in such a short period of time.. (oil? you sure that's not coffee or something? You didn't run over a starbucks did you? ) ima have to do this. I suppose to be fair on my mileage.. I live out in a weird place I guess. A couple of stop sign back country roads that lead about 6 miles to a major road with a speed limit of 65. So I get to accelerate slowly until I get to that, then it's pedal to the metal up to almost 70 so I don't get ran over by the big rigs hauling loads from Alabama. Most of the time they get over.. sometimes they don't. This engine does a weird thing when you floor it like that. It starts to roll real slow, then the engine revs up and its like it presses the "go" button. Throws you back in the seat.. takes 3 gears to reach 68 though. Despite having to do this almost daily I still get high 17s most of the time.. I drive almost everything like I stole it. I have a lead foot, and my mileage often reflects it. Still tho.. setting my cruise control at 64.. I should see that 24! Or at least 21.. c'mon!

How the hell does a 6.2 get like 6mpg more than a 5.3?? If I top 19 in mixed driving I'm lucky. Since the treatment its been holding onto the 19s well though. It was in the high 17s before. Ya know there is one option for the cats.. you could use cutouts or.. hollowed out cats.. but you'd need a tune and certain emissions states may give you trouble with no cats. The shops around here all swear to me they could get a tuned motor to pass emissions with no cats. I'm not sure how. Ask the dealership to show you the old cats before they toss em if ya dont mind.

$63 for so much.. and yet so little. Thanks for the pics! VERY useful!

I've torn down a few LSx motors and I've never sen valves look anything like that. Pistons yes, but valves no. (they weren't direct injection of course..) I know that if you have that much gunk on your throttle body it will stick, cause rough idle and other misc. problems though. I would agree with spurlock it doesn't make sense to me that it improved as much as it did. A tangible difference in performance and fuel economy should not come from such a thing at only 30k miles. How much of it is in my head? How much of it is a switch back to summer fuel? How much of it is a change in my driving habits? Probably more of it than anyone gives it credit, but it's hard to measure those things. I think the main takeaway, at least for me is even if it doesn't make a significant difference, if my valves look like gone_fishing's valves, or even half of that.. a $10 can of cleaner and ~20 minutes of my time (well ok more if you include the driving and all) is good piece of mind. I'd also be more likened to believe the error code would be chemical and not a chunk of stuff clogging the cats. You'd have to have pretty big intake valves and pretty big chunks (thick ones too) to not be destroyed by the pistons. I mean think about what that chunk would have to do.. flake off the intake valve into the piston, survive the explosion, get pushed into the exhaust valve, survive the heat and pressure of all the other cylinders and make it all the way to the cat as a chunk large enough to get caught in the cat's "filter." Not impossible I'm sure, but probably less likely than a chemical soak on the o2 sensor. That being said.. if the CEL comes back.. please let us know what, if anything.. the dealer does.I can't imagine they'd buck a warranty claim, even if they knew you ran a valve system cleaner.

Right.. you don't really WANT it to make a difference cos that means your engine was getting dirty inside. If it never makes a difference.. you're probably running much cleaner. I figure you could PROBABLY make this part of your oil change procedure if you wanted to. CRC recommends it every 10k miles, maybe every 3rd oil change if you do 3k changes.

More than likely. It seems seafoam has been around longer too. I remember people talking about using it on every forum I've been on for vehicles. I've never used a cleaner product in my engine until now though. I'm still averaging about 1mpg better than I was before the treatment. CRC products are very good though. Their brake cleaner is an awesome parts cleaner. Been using it for years.