krdeal

I finally got this done today. The clock spring is needed as an extension harness for the new wheel. You will have a single wire left over down on the steering column where everything plugs up. This is the wire that needs (my guess) a 12V power source. I just literally picked the truck up so I want to make sure I can apply 12V here without damaging everything. The guy who did the install is a GM tech and I barely got the install done before the end of the day. He was just doing this as an R&R install of the clock spring and steering wheel. I will check with my GM tech tomorrow and find out what the wire needs to be connected to. Everything still works on the steering wheel (except the heat button).

I am having issues getting my friendly GM mechanic to work on my truck this last week. Hopefully it will get done this week.....

No, not yet. Should be done this week though. Will post back.

Cool. Thanks 2Speed!

Where did you find the big connector on the seat? Is it under the passenger seat carpet?

All righty then. Does any one know if the HMI is the box that is replaced when updating to the Factory Navigation system?

Well, I have the console installed and it was a little harder than others have described it. Thank God I had a good friend who is mechanically inclined helping me out. The console for the Denali worked just fine. There were a few other items not mentioned by others on here that you should be aware of. First, the wiring harness on the middle seat is a bear to strip out of the seat! I had to do some major disassembly on the seat to extract the harness. If there is a junction somewhere it is not under the console. Because of this I was hesitant to cut anything off of the truck. I ended up using the seat harness to wire the back half of the console. The rear 12V outlet, 12V outlet in the console compartment and the USB/SD Card/ Mini plug connections are all covered here. Unfortunately there is a switch and LED that are not for the console lid. I ended up stripping the harness that comes with the console. I figured I could replace that harness if I messed up. I took the entire harness apart and used the wiring for the switch and LED lamp. I extended one of the wires due to the routing to the front of the console along the same path the original harness used. Problems were that with the original harness the plugs did not all reach to the new locations on the console. I had to really stretch things to the rear most 12V outlet. I also had to cut some of the sheathing material for the two connections in the console box as they go out two different paths. On the hook-ups for the plate near the front of the console.... The 110V plug is just transferred from the dash outlet as you get rid of that panel. Same can be said for the 12V outlet. Problem is you now have two 12 volt outlets! I just jumped from one to the other and soldered the wires. I got the plug from the harness that original came with the console as I had already started cannibalizing it. You only need about 6 inches of wire with the plug. Now, that only leaves that stinking 3X USB outlet. My thoughts on this are simple. The original console wiring does not include any of the front wire connections meaning they must be wired separately from the truck. The only harness connections are for the USB portion of the plug in the console and a huge 40+ pin plug that is major overkill with about 8 wires only being used. So my thought is that since GM decided to wire the two rear most 12V outlets together that I could wire the two front 12V outlets together. Now for that stinking 3X USB feature... I believe there has to be a separate connection on the radio for this additional cable! OR a two cable connection on the OEM console trucks. So my thought is I am going to check the radio for this connection. I'll bet there is a blank spot for it somewhere. I still have to run 12V always to the two wires I ran forward for the LED lamp in the console box. I am going to put on a Delphi wire plug to both ends to be able to unplug it as needed. Also, just an FYI, the two rear most 12V outlets are on with ignition power only as the two front ones are 12V with the key off. Lastly, there are quite a few pieces that are no longer used from the dash when you install this properly. Another item is a brace cover going from the dash to the floor. You must remove this cover or the driver's side console cover will not fit. More to come....

I tried both part numbers listed in this thread for a black console. I ended up getting a console for a Denali or Yukon (part #22995066) and paid even less! I hope there are not many differences. I got the console in and the parts from GM Parts Outlet and everything looks good and fits together. We will find out this weekend if it goes as planned. I got the console from Penske GMC in Torrance, CA off Ebay for $341.83. They even shipped it overnight!!!

Well I bit the bullet and ordered the 5 main parts for the console from gmpartsoutlet.net. Good news is the price was right. The bad news is they say the console part number is a "future" part that is unavailable from GM. i gave them a part number from their own site! So, now I have 4 pieces to a console and no console on its way..... This has got to be a dealer only item and some of these places are GM parts only sites or something. I am on a roll lately.......

Yes it does.

Having owned all the different versions of the Chevy Silverado going back to 1987, I think their is a difference in the factory radios. On the 2014 you have a lot more to play with to tailor the sound. I could not image this set-up on my last two series of trucks. (2009 & 2003). Instead I had some serious equipment in both. I would love to just have some pre-amp outputs for highs, mids & lows and then add my own amps with this front-end. It can be done, but price, return to stock ability and just plain getting older..... I don't need it as much any more. I actually still have a lot of the equipment and speakers and may try updating the speakers. I have a set of ZR series JL Audio speakers and a set of German made MB Quart QSD216 speakers. We'll see in the future.

Well, I finally got a hold of their Customer Service Supervisor. He treated me like gold and took care of everything. Shipped a second harness overnight and I installed it last night. Still playing with the settings but it is a definite improvement without touching the factory parts. The speakers sound much better and clearer and the extra thump is impressive for the size of the sub box.

I am so glad several people have had good luck with this upgrade. Heck even several who have made it work for the Bose system where it is not designed to work. I on the other hand have had a complete nightmare trying to obtain and then install mine. First the vendor I purchased the kit from lied about having it in stock. It was dropped shipped. Then instead of to me it was dropped shipped to the vendor. I had made pre-arrangements with the vendor to ship it where I was vacationing over the Thanksgiving holidays. Needless to say the vendor had to overnight the package to me to get on time before I left my vacation location a week and half later. So much for the vendor.... Second, I had the kit installed at a local stereo dealer that sells Kicker (I had purchased mine OEM Chevrolet). The first part of the instructions are to remove the head unit display panel. Then disconnect and replace a plug in the actual radio unit behind the display. First problem with kit... plugs are not even close! Kit had two smaller black plugs and the truck has a big green single plug. So I call Kicker....I speak to tech support... no problem I am just going to transfer you to customer service, tell them you need a new body harness. Hell starts here.... the C/S rep is an idiot. Needless to say 4 days of dealing with the same guy over and over. Finally I let him have it both barrels and tell him to send me the harness at my cost and I will deal with it later. Still nothing. I ask for his supervisor..... Oh he is not here......ughh! #$@# Next day I get an e-mail about a package coming via Fed-Ex Ground. No phone call, no e-mail from C/S, nothing.... I get the package 4 days later (I would have paid for overnight). Right looking plug, we are in business!!! NOPE! The plug fits so loosely that the radio cuts in and out. Most likely a terminal is not crimped right..... UGHH!! I contact Kicker again. I speak with a tech and tell him what's going on. Again, back to customer service. This time the tech must have felt my pain and I got a voice mail from a big shot. I left a sane but harsh message. An hour later the most pleasant and considerate man called me asking what needs to be done to make this right and he will send anything up to an entire kit overnight! WOW! Guy even asked for my shirt size to send some swag on top of all of that. In process..... will keep you updated. PS: It sounded great as long as I held the plug onto the radio, as soon as I let loose it broke up and cut off and on........

The clock spring is different on the heated steering wheel models. You will need both parts. I am going to attempt this next week sometime.

For everyone wondering the difference with the Denali console, I'll bet the difference is it has a DVD player in the back. Hence the different wiring. Console would work, but you would need to order the different end panel for a clean look.

Tbarn, I just wanted to thank you for your expertise and ability to handle many questions thrown at you. As a former parts man for Chevrolet, I know the ins and outs of someone coming in and asking for that part that's on my buddy's truck! I will do this modification soon and will refer to your advice. Thanks again! KRDeal