Search the Community

I was driving yesterday (35-40 mph) and out of nowhere the CEL came flashing on and the display said something to the effect of (service transmission, service traction control, and forward collision system disabled/unavailable). Having not even logged 5,000mi on the ODO my stomach sank. I continued along driving and dismissed the error messages. I came up to the next red light and the CEL flashed a few more times, then went away. Absolutely zero performance issues before / during / after the warning lights / messages. I have met the forward collision system unavailable message before, but that was due to a small bit of ice on the windshield back in February. Has anyone ever run into this before? I'm in MD and the pollen has accented the onyx black paint into what looks like a bumblebee's rear end. Could excessive pollen blocking a sensor be the culprit? I love the truck (major upgrade from the 2011 Subaru), but it would be a real shame if I'm going to have to make regular trips to the dealer to fix issues like this. (i guess that's American engineering for ya). Appreciate it if anyone can share a similar experience and what ended up happening.

I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 and just this year when the cold weather started, in the mornings when I start driving I get traction control off, stabilitrak off, and brake fluid low messages. I don't lose power and nothing else happens. After the sequence the traction control turns back on. It does it when I start accelerating and sometimes just random while driving. Anyone having this problem?

Okay so I have a 2008 GMC Sierra with 130 on a 5.3. It's my daily driver and now has some issues. Basically a misfire in cylinder 2 that I would like any good help with before I keep trying new things that might not work. So the stalibitrak and traction control lights also flash and are on regularly which started at the same time. Meanwhile the engine light has flashed for a couple seconds but is usually solid. It is a p0302 misfire. So far I have cleaned the MAF, checked for leaks, changed all spark plugs, coils, and wires, ran some seafoam through it at the brake booster line and some in the gastank. I pulled the new spark plug after it didn't work for inspection and it was very carbon fouled after 3 days and very little driving. It runs good at higher speeds but idles rough and loud I would say klunky. Has not stalled. So Does anyone have any ideas before I keep changing things that are not the problem? 2008 Chevy Silverado/ 08 GMC Sierra 5.3

here are some picture and videos of how i installed my upfitter aux switches to my 2017 silverado Texas edition truck which DID NOT com with them nor does it have the relays fuses or switch wires in the harness. keep in mind the switches are GROUND or NEGATIVE switching. which means they DO NOT HAVE 12v ON THEM. DO NOT PUT 12V ON THE WIRES YOUR ABOUT TO INSTALL. i had to get a new connector from a crashed truck in a junk yard which i then pulled 4 of the pins and wires out of to install into my trucks harness plug for the upfitter switch. once i did that it was just a simple act of making a short extension wire from those 4 wires coming from the harness plug to go to the driver kick panel where im going to locate the relays for the devises i want to control. you will see the harness plug and wires where i put them. and you will see the JST plug i used to connect the 4 wires to the extension wire to run to my relays. will also upload videos soon.

My warning lights come on when temp outside is in the 40’s and below. It says “ Low Brake Fluid, Stabilitrak Off, Traction Control Off” and this morning it also said low coolant. I live in south Florida so this happened last year when I went to Ohio in December, the truck had 12,000 miles on it. Got back to Florida and it happened one cold morning so I took it to dealership. They could not find anything wrong. Later with 38,000 miles the low coolant light came on. I took it to dealership again, they could not find anything. Now I am back in Ohio for Christmas and the lights started coming on again when I got into colder weather. They do go off at times while driving but come back on within 10 minutes if the temp outside is still below 40. It is very annoying as the warning bell starts going off and the lights flash. Any advice?

While out on a dirt road enjoying my newly installed prerunner suspension I successfully turned off the Traction Control and ESC (electronic stability control). Went for a run down the woops and ESC turned itself back on and applied the brakes during one of my drifts. COMPLETELY unexpected and caused the truck to handle undesirably (to say the least). In talking to another Chevy guy he said the ESC turns itself back on at 35mph and above!... Is there anyway to 'tune' this out and make it stay off when desired? This is exactly why I held onto my 05 Duramax for so long. It had ZERO 'nanny hardware' that would f*#k with me while offroading.

I have searched countless threads and haven't seen a similar issue. I have a 2017 GMC Sierra SLT 1500 2wd 6.2L. I have had a RC 3.5" Lift in Front and 2" Blocks in Back on 33" Yokohama's. I also have a Hypertech Max Energy 2.0 (p/n 2100), which I used to calibrate my speedo. I installed this setup just over a year ago. Stability Control (Stabiltrac/TC/ABS,etc) has not been an issue until now. My front two tires had strange wear, caused by premature failure of my UCA's. A couple weeks ago i replaced both front tires. The truck still drove great. This last weekend I rotated the tires at home, now the new tires are on the rear. It now feels like I'm driving on marbles/on ice. Not stable at all. the traction control light (on the cluster) flashes on, and I can feel my stabilitrac try to wreck me. It's not an anti-lock deal because my brake pedal acts normal. My Wheel Speed Sensors appear to have slack and are not damaged. I made an appointment today (for tomorrow) to have the two 'older' tires rebalanced. Could that cause these symptoms or am I overlooking something? I've seen others talk about the Rough Country 90009 and the Hypertech 732501 as possbile fixes in their case, but I believe the 732501 is a scaled down version of the 2100. I find it hard to believe its a sensor (Steering Angle, Yaw, etc) because, I would think I would have been having an issue before. This literally started after a tire rotation. thank you, in advance.

My 2019 SIlverado 4x4 has 3,100 miles. It was parked in the driveway last week and when I attempted to enter it into the garage, and in Drive, it sat there for a second or two, and then lurched into the garage. I instanteously hit the brakes and got it stopped. When I pressed the gas, the truck just stood still, then took off into the garage. Now, today, as I backed out of the driveway for a quick errand, the emergency brake would not release, then it released, but as I selected Drive, it refused to move. I played around with it several times, pressing the brake pedal as instructed, and finally got it to go. However, I had now brake assist. It required a ton of pressure to get it to stop. The dash light up like the 4th of July. BRAKE showed up in red, engine in yellow, Traction Control in yellow, Tire Pressure (quickly vanished), ABS, and Service ESC. Am heading to the dealer (48 miles) in the morning. I was going to connect my DTC and see what was showing, but will refrain, so dealer can see for themselves. I've noticed a couple of intermittent quirks since I've owned it (July 2019), but things seemed to resolve themselves. I did receive December recall and they will get that looked at in the morning. Am attaching a photo of the dash as i sits now. The -14.6V DC light is from a piece of equipment I have installed. Anyone else out there having issues? Also, photo shows less the 30psi oil pressure at idle, a bit low I am thinking

I bought a Certified Pre-Owned 2010 Sierra SLE 5.3L (LC9) Vin code "3" about 3 years ago. It's stock besides a front leveling spacer on the strut, no aftermarket electrical. The truck will intermittently go into limp mode with "Service Stabilitrak & Service Traction Control" displayed on the DIC (No SES Light). Eventually when the CAN bus reboots the SES light illuminates. After clearing the codes it drives normal until it happens again. I've had it happen on the freeway, in park, on normal surface roads, over bumps, doesn't seem to be a reason why or when it occurs other than outside temps. The odd thing is it only acts up when its warmer than 60 Degrees outside, this winter she drove fine without a single hiccup. Which tells me it might be an internal module failure... However, I've had it happen in the same spot on the way to work several times. When I pull the DTC's it's from modules that lost communication on the high speed CAN/LAN buss or modules requesting MIL because of no ability to communicate. DTC's: U0073 - Communication Bus A OFF U0100 - Lost Comm with ECM U0101 - Lost Comm with TCM P0700 - TCM Request MIL P069E - Fuel Pump Control Module Request MIL U0140 - Lost Comm with BCM U0121 - Lost Comm with EBCM U0102 - Lost Comm with Transfer Case Cntrl Module - I've replaced the battery (Optima Red Top), cleaned the terminals and cleaned Mega Fuse. Tested Alternator with a Midtronics GR8 - Cleaned the Grounds on the Front Engine Block, Fire Wall, Chassis under drivers door, front frame by radiator. (Hood to Firewall ground strap missing) - Removed the UBEC fuse block and swapped relays, no corrosion, applied dielectric grease. - Removed the TPA lock on the TCM/ Trans connector, checked for backed out terminals or ATF leaking. Found nothing abnormal. - Checked the Harness from the TCM going up to the Engine Block, nothing abnormal. - Checked EBCM connectors & harness, nothing abnormal - Checked FPCM connectors & harness, nothing abnormal - Replaced 120 Ohm Terminating Resistor (Twice) - Checked ECM connectors & harness, nothing abnormal - Checked BCM Connectors, nothing abnormal - Checked harness on top of engine, nothing - Using a DLC Break-out box, I have 60 ohms on PIN 14 (CAN High), but haven't been able to test when it acts up. - I can talk to most modules with my scan tool when the CAN bus is online, if I plug it in just after the bus went down, I cant communicate and have to wait until the bus reboots to clear the codes and get back on the road. I used to be able to clear the codes "on the fly" while driving but it seems like its taking the bus longer to reboot as time goes on. Just ordered new Positive and Negative battery cables, and the Hood ground (not sure why the hood needs a ground) Could the VCIM module be bad? The truck is pretty much babied since I've had it, I change the oil myself every 2-3k (fear of AFM issues). Any help is much appreciated. I'm running out of ideas.