georgecdisc

I thought it operated as such: Truck off = batteries isolated Truck on = batteries isolated Truck running = batteries connected 100A fuse at isolator is so alternator can charge second battery (when truck running) 30A fuse at isolator goes to 12V+ of 7way trailer plug. I think this means you can drain your second battery with a camper and still start your truck with primary battery. I may be wrong, hoping someone else can back this claim. ...i did a little experimenting when wiring in my battery maintainer quick connects (one for each battery). My memory is foggy on those results.

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/241266-wheel-well-liners/

my brakes definitely don't have the bite I'm used to in my other cars and last truck. I'm wondering if it is due to brake pad material... something that lasts longer and can take heat. reminds me of my low dust pads on sports car, just don't have the stopping feel like stock brembo pads. my side by side oem pads lasted 2000 miles, they sucked for any sort of aggressive braking. tried cheaper aftermarket ones that were much better at stopping, but lasted maybe 500 miles. overall I'm not impressed with the braking, doesn't feel linear and takes quite a bit of effort. gotta wear the heavy boots. contrast that to a crossover suv I just put in Napa pads and rotors (ie nothing special) it sends you through the windshield with little force on brake pedal.

I'm a little confused how the rack is stressing the welds. is the portion of the rack normally over the cab as your picture shows? if so I can see how bumpy roads might cause that to act as a giant lever and act upon the front of bed. I've got a mesh backrack, but it is not load bearing except for its own weight. mainly there to prevent firewood from bouncing in bed thru the glass window. do you think this would cause similar issues dues to the stiffening (bed can't flex)? seems like stiffening would assist in keeping those welds from popping, but only to lateral loads not front to back.

I think I looked at the 7" B&W, believe the ground clearance was same as 8" weigh safe (I've removed this from my list of options already). what's the coupler height on your boat trailer when level?

im looking to get a new adjustable drop hitch. currently have a 0" drop hitch and own an equipment trailer with adjustable coupler. I have access to a utility trailer and want to get my own (small single axle) , coupler height around 15"+. my quick measurement on not so perfectly flat terrain is 23" to top of shank. I'm undecided between 6" and 8" drops. I want a buy-it-once hitch, but don't want limited ground clearance after truck sag on a loaded 14k lb trailer. fairly certain 10" would be obscene on a stock truck. truck is 100% stock 2020 gasser with 18" wheels (not sure if standard wheel/tire options changes ride height). anyone running trailers in this realm? 8" seems ideal for the range of normal tongue heights but I'm nervous about ground clearance. no plans to go offroading but I do see some rocky uneven terrain, or what I like to call make-shift "parking lots" in the sticks.

straight from my email confirmation: Order Summary VEHICLE 1: 2020 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Standard Cab Pickup Base 4WD Rear Wheelhousing Liner Set Part No.: 84496084 MSRP: $150.00 | Quantity: 1 | Delivery Method: Pickup at Dealer - No Additional cost

I had to order mine, were on backorder for a few weeks at the time part # 84496084

my fuel, battery, coolant, and oil pressure analog gauges all do not match the digital gauges on my phone using Torque app with obdii dongle. I've had 90% of fuel on digital, but analog still on Full. I've gotten used to this over the years with multiple vehicles, and with the advent of fuel range readout I just use that instead. coolant is probably worst offender and this isn't the only gm vehicle I've seen it on, I think it's typical of all of them going back decades. warming up I'll see 130 digital but analog is already past 160. running temp is 195 but analog is 210. I don't see the point of putting numbers or tick marks on analog gauges if both are inaccurate.

As far as I know I only have 2 speakers in my 2 door truck, 1 in each door. the sound quality is abysmal. I'm not expecting fantastic audio from a stock WT, but it is truly awful. ive done plenty of audio stuff in my life, but for this I just want something to get me by. my days of 1000W+ systems in a 2 door truck are long gone. I don't want to be adding locs or an amp, even tho wiring is no issue to me. has anyone replaced just the speakers, powered by factory head unit? I suspect new speakers will sound equally crappy... part of me suspects the EQ of the head unit is tuned for the expectations of crap speakers. I've got speaker grills in the dash. if components can be done in doors and dash I'd contemplate that route.... again, no amp. currently have the bass maxed out on factory head unit. I'm no bass junky as I like my tunes neutral, it's just lacking that much. hoping I can get a definitive answer if just speakers make a marked improvement or if it's a waste of money for placebo effect.

tried to go to next spline position, but it positions the blade to go into the frit area at full swipe. this isn't necessarily bad, but it was came close to edge of glass. add any winter snow packing and it might be more of a problem. also sat a little high from driver POV when in rested position (higher than ssowie picture) . returned it to where it was from factory. figure I'd rather hide it behind dash more instead of swiping more.

wiper does seem to be a little on low side at resting position. passenger side even looks suspect, but much less so. guess I'll have to check and see if I can clock it differently this afternoon.

doesn't seem like my driver side wiper goes all the way to edge of windshield. I'd expect the angle to at least be parallel to A pillar at full stroke. this normal or do I need to make a dealer visit? truck has less than 200 miles on it.

On my '98 Silverado the mounting surface below the sensor began to corrode, causing the sensor to lift. It only lifted like a millimeter, but enough that the sensors would have issues reading. I never had an ABS light go on, but I had issues at stopping speed where my ABS would go off (pulsating pedal). This was because my front sensors could not get a good reading, didn't match with the rear wheel speed, thus a time ABS should engage. I used a wire brush to clean up the mounting surfaces, worked like a charm! Before doing this I put in a paper towel to the hole to plug it up so debris wouldn't go inside it.

H-11 SilverStar were just released in the past month or so. H-11 SilverStar Ultras do not exist. I just got hired at Osram Sylvania and asked one of the engineers about it, and that is what he told me. I was running the Xtra-vision before but put the SilverStar H11 in, big difference. I would definitely go the SS route over the H9. I'm curious if the additional heat generated by the H9 would be bad for the reflector housing/cutoff shield.